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How about... NO MUFFLER at all! Anyone? Anyone? Anyone?

IMHO - a straight pipe like a DanMoto XG-1 or one of the slightly baffled DanMoto slip-ons give the sound you are after. This will not hurt the engine.

You may be over thinking this - just do what you want. Asking others for the 1000 different opinions you will get will just confuse you even more.
 
IMHO - a straight pipe like a DanMoto XG-1 or one of the slightly baffled DanMoto slip-ons give the sound you are after. This will not hurt the engine.

You may be over thinking this - just do what you want. Asking others for the 1000 different opinions you will get will just confuse you even more.


+1 (...er 1,000) :D
 
I'm pretty happy with the stock "quiet" of the bike. I think I may paint the can black, but am happy with it otherwise. I guess I don't see the point in making a bike louder, i get enough wind noise and everything else that i don't really want to add any decibals to an already high number. For guys that do, I can see how it may benefit you in heavy traffic, nothing wrong with having the vehicles around you know your there. On the other hand there is this guy down the road who fires up his ridiculously loud truck at 0430 every morning who may find his truck won't start one day....Gotta find a balance I guess.
 
I like the quiet, but I have to admit that HDRIDR's video sounded pretty good. The Cager on Two Wheels video was awesome too. My little old Vulcan 500 was absolutely unbearable when I slipped off the mufflers, so I hadn't even wondered what the NC would sound like. It might be fun to pop off the can every once in a while. Maybe fabricate a turn-down or something...or maybe a set of scrambler style pipes...and a raked out springer front end...and I could get all the silver body panels hydro dipped in camo or wood grain! I could get some badges custom made too. It could be the NC700WTH! I see winter shenanigans brewing. :D
 
Thanks for the feedback and opinions. The stock, painted black muffler is okay for now, and looks good though still a little big for my taste, and since I've now switched to a Bell 500 Classic 3/4 helmet that finally gives me a shell that is not three times my head size, I can now hear the engine/transmission pretty well at the expense of a SNELL rated helmet. The huge, heavy helmet shells with lots of padding for small heads made by all the manufacturers were causing a slow death, so now I'll just choose to die faster with a less protective helmet and actually enjoy riding until my time comes. That leaves me with the issue of the difficult clean up of the under side of the CTX700 with that big monstrosity

But last winter is when I struggled with the chain mess and even got salt all over everything once due to every southern state's over reaction to treating roads after Atlanta's debacle. I may decide to do the straight pipe thing in late fall. Run the pipe back close to it's current length. As long as it can be reversed. If it kills mpg or starts running roughly, the muffler will be back on in a hurry. I sure did like the sound w/o the muffler too. That surprised me. I'm not one who likes loud pipes, and I didn't find it obnoxious at all and neither did everyone else I know that heard it. Did not seem that loud to me. Of course revving way up above 5K would be loud, but I don't ride around like that. Pretty tame idling and engine braking as well.
 
Sorry to bring up this old thread, but I'm coming over from the CTX700 forum to get some more opinions about running without a muffler.

There were a lot of technical questions posed by gregsfc. This is my feeble attempt to address those questions. I will not be commenting on sound of various exhaust configurations.

There is actually quite a bit of physics involved in the proper design of an exhaust system. Proper design has everything to do with exhaust gas velocity with as little back pressure as possible. At the risk of oversimplification, let me say that high velocity (and resultant vacuum pulse) is needed to properly scavenge the exhaust gases from the system.

Velocity can be affected by many variables.

- If you simply remove the muffler or install a short "drag pipe" the velocity of the system will be decreased. To do this properly you would need to do some tuning with baffles or torque cones. Drag pipes are typically tuned for a higher RPM, higher displacement engine.

- A longer tube would likely do a better job of maintaining velocity. There are still variables that will affect this straight pipe scenario. These variables include length, diameter, thermal insulation value, etc.

Now that I have thoroughly muddied the waters let me give you my opinion. Remember, you asked for it :) Keep in mind this is a SWAG since we have not actually measured any of the variables.

If you keep the system intact through the cat you should maintain most of the needed velocity. For this engine I don't think you will see a real world performance issue with any of the proposed configurations, as long as you have some sort of dump pipe after the Cat. To see the differences you would have to run the NC at a much higher RPM range than the rev limiter allows.

- For further reading this RB Racing LSR 2-1 Exhaust Technology is a good article by RB racing that discussed these issues in detail as they relate to motorcycles. It is long, but worth the time to read if you are interested in more accurately understanding the issue.

- Also, here exhaustbackpressure is a much more coherent discussion of the myth of back pressure. Basically, some people mistakenly believe back pressure is needed. This link explains the error in that belief.

- Finally, there is a short discussion here Harley Exhaust Comparison | Harley Performance of the issues related to "short drag pipes" (scroll down about a third of the page) You can also check out the FAQ for the Radiant Cycle Shorty exhaust that was linked in another comment. It states "Backpressure is decreased with our exhaust. This provides less exhaust restriction to increase horsepower at full throttle. Tuning is recommended for best performance, but is not required. Without tuning, horsepower is increased only at full throttle and torque is decreased during normal riding. If tuning is done, both horsepower and torque are increased".

I hope this helps and please forgive me if I kick off something resembling a oil thread LOL!
 
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Got the Arrow slip on muffler, db killer out and the result is amazing.

Check it on youtube there are plenty of vídeos.

Was tempted to try it without any muffler but did not.
 
Thanks again for the feedback, opinions, and links, especially to mwcogburn. The reading helps me understand the physics of it all alot better though some is way over my head. I rarely exceed 4,000 RPM and rarely employ full throttle, so I'm now not too worried about how a new slip on will impact performance or engine wear now that I've checked a few different sources and have gotten nearly a consensus on the whole matter.

I've found a auto/bike repair shop that will bend a stock-sized slip-on pipe and bolt on to the stock pipe end, which is located in the same spot, as far as I can tell, as the NC700X pipe end. Unlike the NC700X where the slip-on stock muffler pretty much follows the same upward route as the "header end" (not sure if my terminology is correct), the CTX700 actually turns upward and then back downward so that it ends up running a perfectly horizontal line before entering the large-diameter portion of the muffler. My goal is to get this same approximate tail-pipe route; only smaller diameter; a little shorter (for rear wheel lifting, etc.); and alot louder, but maybe a little quieter than w/o a muffler whatsoever but closer to the decibel level w/o a muffler. What I've come across so far on mufflers is the same thing Marotajo left a link for. It's pretty inexpensive, short, smaller diameter (about 2 1/2" I think), and it is baffled with a claimed 105 decibel level. I found these mufflers for sale at ebay from anywhere from $30-$50. Powder coating is $25 extra; not sure what that's about but from what I could learn from Google searching, $25 powder coating seems like a good deal. The link below is one of the many mufflers the store sells but for different models. The website states to call them, and they can get one the right muffler for his or her bike. I couldn't find one specifically for the NC700X, but I'm sure something they've got would work.


Black Moto Cycles GP Mini Slip on Exhaust Yamaha YZF R6 2004 R6S | eBay

As for attaching the muffler to the repair-shop-built pipe, I asked the mechanic in my ignorance, how he could slip-on an i.d.-sized pipe to the stock o.d. pipe and then be able to attach it to the same i.d.-sized muffler. He replied, and I don't know what this means, that he could "swelt it on". He said, "get a muffler, and I can put it on for you the way you want it". This mechanic has nothing but praise from everyone in this small town, so I pretty much trust what he says.

In the end, I should be able to clean up and store my stock muffler, which will keep it looking new for years to come; have an exhaust that will provide enough noise for me to hear the engine while accelerating and shifting (I've lost half my hearing in my right ear due to eustachian tube issue; not from being in a loud environment); and have a pipe end section that will give me more room for lifting the bike on my rear stand and more room to get my hand up underneath the r/s of the bike. The mechanic said that his pipe would be bolted/slipped on, so I can set it all back up stock whenever I want or need to.

I'll gladly welcome and accept anyone other opinions or feedback or bringing up something that I may not be considering; but that's sort of where I'm headed right now.
 
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