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Question How do you jack this dang thing up?

I guess you get one of those fancy stands that goes at the front and rear wheel. Not sure what you call them.

Harbor Freight also has a motorcycle stand that should work.
Motorcycle lift
 
How do you jack this dang thing up? Is center stand only option? Why didn't it come with one?
The center stand is a good place to start. My theory is that it didn’t come with a center stand so that Honda could keep the motorcycle MSRP low, but then later charge a few extra dollars for the accessory.
 
How do you jack this dang thing up? Is center stand only option? Why didn't it come with one?
Lots of chain drive bikes come without centerstands today for some odd reason. The NC one is relatively cheap but a pain to install.

There is a little gizmo you can buy which when stuck under the swingarm will get the back wheel off the ground for chain maintenance and maybe an emergency tire repair. Don't know that I would trust it to remove a wheel though

 
Lots of chain drive bikes come without centerstands today for some odd reason. The NC one is relatively cheap but a pain to install.

There is a little gizmo you can buy which when stuck under the swingarm will get the back wheel off the ground for chain maintenance and maybe an emergency tire repair. Don't know that I would trust it to remove a wheel though

I was witness to one of these being used in the field (literally, a big grass one) and it seemed fine.

Now, removing and reinstalling the front axle without a torque wrench or even the right sockets.... That I would not recommend.
 
+1 buy a centre stand

When I've had to lift the front wheel as well,
I put heavy weights in the top box,
Then some softwood on my jack before jacking up the cat converter.
It's bad practice and risks crushing the cat but there's nowhere else to jack from.
 
+1 buy a centre stand

When I've had to lift the front wheel as well,
I put heavy weights in the top box,
Then some softwood on my jack before jacking up the cat converter.
It's bad practice and risks crushing the cat but there's nowhere else to jack from.
Do as you must, but with the bike on the center stand, I put a small wood block under the oil pan and jack it from there. I have never had need to put weight on the exhaust system, even when removing the front wheel and the forks for service.
 
Do as you must, but with the bike on the center stand, I put a small wood block under the oil pan and jack it from there. I have never had need to put weight on the exhaust system, even when removing the front wheel and the forks for service.
I think I'm going to have to do fork seals this winter (going to try the little plastic wiper/pick tool first to see if it's just grit stuck under the seal). I have the front stand that lifts from the bottom of the forks, but obviously that's not going to work for me if I want to remove the forks.

At the risk of coming off as condescending (for clarity, I'm not saying you shouldn't do it or that you're wrong, I'm just asking for your experiences):
I agree that lifting on the exhaust is not wise, but I'm also skeptical of lifting from the oil pan. I know as a broadly general rule, most oil pans aren't a great place to lift from, but where the engine of the NC is a stressed member of the frame, it might be beefier than most. Also looking at the bike, there's not too too many options to lift if you've got the front end coming off, so maybe Mother Honda designed it with the intent of lifting from there. The service manual just says to support with a lift or hoist, so that's not super helpful.
I'm assuming since you've done many times, it's worked out well for you. Have you noticed anything that would suggest the oil pan isn't up for this task?
I know you mentioned a centre stand, so I imagine more of the weight of the bike is on the stand (closer to the CG of the machine). I've got swingarm lift for the back end, so I know I'd be putting more weight on the pan in my case.
With cars I've heard some pretty bad stories of jacks that went right through oil pans, but we're talking a bike with a fraction of the weight and an engine that was designed as a loaded frame member so it's a whole different ball game. Just looking at it, the pan on the NC is much more solid than most.

I was considering building a wooden cradle of sorts that loaded the frame members instead of the engine, but there doesn't seem to be a good way to do that either without some creative design/engineering.
I also have a very unfinished basement, so if all else fails, I'll be hanging her from the beam/joists.
I know I could get one of those stem pin lift chummies, but I'm also not one to buy something I don't really need to do an infrequent job.
 
I think I'm going to have to do fork seals this winter (going to try the little plastic wiper/pick tool first to see if it's just grit stuck under the seal). I have the front stand that lifts from the bottom of the forks, but obviously that's not going to work for me if I want to remove the forks.

At the risk of coming off as condescending (for clarity, I'm not saying you shouldn't do it or that you're wrong, I'm just asking for your experiences):
I agree that lifting on the exhaust is not wise, but I'm also skeptical of lifting from the oil pan. I know as a broadly general rule, most oil pans aren't a great place to lift from, but where the engine of the NC is a stressed member of the frame, it might be beefier than most. Also looking at the bike, there's not too too many options to lift if you've got the front end coming off, so maybe Mother Honda designed it with the intent of lifting from there. The service manual just says to support with a lift or hoist, so that's not super helpful.
I'm assuming since you've done many times, it's worked out well for you. Have you noticed anything that would suggest the oil pan isn't up for this task?
I know you mentioned a centre stand, so I imagine more of the weight of the bike is on the stand (closer to the CG of the machine). I've got swingarm lift for the back end, so I know I'd be putting more weight on the pan in my case.
With cars I've heard some pretty bad stories of jacks that went right through oil pans, but we're talking a bike with a fraction of the weight and an engine that was designed as a loaded frame member so it's a whole different ball game. Just looking at it, the pan on the NC is much more solid than most.

I was considering building a wooden cradle of sorts that loaded the frame members instead of the engine, but there doesn't seem to be a good way to do that either without some creative design/engineering.
I also have a very unfinished basement, so if all else fails, I'll be hanging her from the beam/joists.
I know I could get one of those stem pin lift chummies, but I'm also not one to buy something I don't really need to do an infrequent job.
The vast majority of the weight rests on the center stand. The oil pan is a cast piece with strengthening ribs, not stamped steel. I have no worries about overstressing the oil pan with the jack’s small force needed to lift the front end. Putting added weight on the rear of the bike will make it easier yet.

I wouldn’t know how much weight the oil pan would need to carry if a center stand was not employed in the lifting process. It doesn’t seem like a good idea.

Hanging the front from a beam is good, too. I’ve done it with the NC just for secondary support and safety. My CRF has no center stand so I’ve had to hang it from a beam.
 
The vast majority of the weight rests on the center stand. The oil pan is a cast piece with strengthening ribs, not stamped steel. I have no worries about overstressing the oil pan with the jack’s small force needed to lift the front end. Putting added weight on the rear of the bike will make it easier yet.

Hanging the front from a beam is good, too. I’ve done it just for secondary support and safety.
Excellent, thanks for the info. Have you ever tried putting enough weight on back to lift the front without a jack under the pan? If so, do you remember how much weight and where you put it? Just trying to get an estimate of where the CG of the bike is fore-and-aft. I'm much more comfortable with my decisions if I have at least a little bit of math to back it up. In general, I don't have much faith in the "I've done it this way and it was fine," as a justification for things, but sometimes that's the only source of information so in this case I'll make an exception. :p More of an occupational requirement, I'm an aerospace engineer for a heavy maintenance and modification outfit, so I've seen plenty of 'that's-how-we've-always-done-it-s' go real bad real fast...

I definitely agree with the assessment of cast/ribbed vs stamped. I'm assuming this was done where the engine is a stressed member. I think even with my aft reaction point being back on the swingarm, the loads on the pan will still be ok.
I'll probably end up either lifting from the pan, then strapping to the beam for security as mentioned, or using the front fork lift stand to get up, strap to the beam, and position the jack under the pan and take up just enough of the load so it won't all come crashing down if the straps let go.
 
At one time I had a frame made of pipe from Lowes/Home Depot that was wide enough to span the front of the bike with a cross pipe that went over the bike. I could use a strap from the overhead pipe to the handlebars or triple clamp to hold the front wheel off the ground. Easy to make and the 'feet' could be rotated 90 degrees to basically fold flat for storage. I got the idea from another forum. My riding buddies and I all made one.
 
Excellent, thanks for the info. Have you ever tried putting enough weight on back to lift the front without a jack under the pan? If so, do you remember how much weight and where you put it? Just trying to get an estimate of where the CG of the bike is fore-and-aft. I'm much more comfortable with my decisions if I have at least a little bit of math to back it up. In general, I don't have much faith in the "I've done it this way and it was fine," as a justification for things, but sometimes that's the only source of information so in this case I'll make an exception. :p More of an occupational requirement, I'm an aerospace engineer for a heavy maintenance and modification outfit, so I've seen plenty of 'that's-how-we've-always-done-it-s' go real bad real fast...

I definitely agree with the assessment of cast/ribbed vs stamped. I'm assuming this was done where the engine is a stressed member. I think even with my aft reaction point being back on the swingarm, the loads on the pan will still be ok.
I'll probably end up either lifting from the pan, then strapping to the beam for security as mentioned, or using the front fork lift stand to get up, strap to the beam, and position the jack under the pan and take up just enough of the load so it won't all come crashing down if the straps let go.
I have never tried to rely on weight added to the rear of the bike in lieu of jacking under the oil pan. In fact, the bike is fairly well balanced (with a small forward bias) on the center stand. On the centerstand, I can grab the beak with one hand and fairly easily lift the front enough to spin the front wheel, so that gives and idea of the fore-aft weight bias while on the centerstand. The jack under the oil pan needs to do very little lifting.
 
If I need to get the whole bike up off the ground I have on several occasions lifted it by the oil pan. If centered correctly the bike is well balanced and won't move even while working on it. If I need to remove a tire I will strap the seat down to the jack and it holds firm.
When I did the swing arm swap I had the bike lifted for several days to do other fixes so jacked it up and placed the oil pan on a milk crate with some 2x4's and strapped the whole thing under its own weight. That worked out really well.
 
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