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How to reset the PGM-FI / MIL light from a safety fault?

I was able to clear the fault for $35 worth of parts from Amazon and learned some things in the process.

Here's what worked:

1. Honda OBD Adapter: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B091GQ44FN
2. OBD2 Scanner Car Diagnostic Scan Tool Check: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B083W1LGDP
3. Read the code then erase the code from the scan tool.
Nice work Supertux. I just ordered the OBD2 adaptor to keep in the toolkit. Chasing these issues is inevitable on an aging, electronics-ridden machine.

This is how I do my chain - fast, lazy, but still pretty safe. I like my hands.
  1. Put it on the centerstand
  2. lube the chain with the engine off
  3. then use the engine to spin up the back wheel for a few seconds to draw the lube across the O rings.
  4. Turn the engine off, wipe off any excess, and you're done.
 
ANOTHER NOTE: Proceed at your own RISK. Honda motorcycle are NOT ODBII compliant. Since motorcycles are under the OBD a manufacturer may choose to use any and all protocols and codes.

OBD-II compliant vehicle can use any of the five communication protocols: J1850 PWM, J1850 VPW, ISO9141-2, ISO14230-4 (also known as Keyword Protocol 2000), and more recently, ISO15765-4/SAE J2480 (a "flavor" of CAN). US car manufacturers were not allowed to use CAN until model year 2003, but as of model year 2008 and going forward, all vehicles will use the CAN protocol. Many manufacturers use one or more protocols on the same vehicle. One to read the mandatory OBD data and another to read manufacturer data and codes that are proprietary to that manufacture.

The damage risk is small but still there. So it’s buyer and user beware. Your results may vary........if you “smoke” the ECU it’s going to cost $$$. So carefully weigh the cost benefit before you jump in the pool.

If the paper clip or Honda service check connector is used correctly and the original or new fault is not present the light will (should) clear. Same for reading the codes. There is little or no chance an OBD a is going read any Honda motorcycle codes.
 
My cage is a VW. Aside from the barest minimum of OBD requirements (mostly emissions-related) everything else is super-special-top-secret-classified-VW-only code. A select few 3rd party guys painstakingly reverse-engineered some code and hardware, but as far as I know, no one outside of VAG (or, at least without the very expensive VAG-made tools) can decode everything.
It's possible Honda made everything as OBDII-compliant as they could, but I'd say it's much more likely, especially where OBD compliance is not required at all on motorcycles (to my knowledge), that there is plenty of proprietary code in there. When you have a device that can read/WRITE to the control unit, I'd want to be pretty damn sure there's no significant probability of bricking the brain-box.

Edit A: It's also important to note that on a modern VW, the OBD port is also where you link in to change settings such as convenience (number of "convenience" turn signal flashes, open/close windows from the remote, etc.) and optional equipment (enable/disable fog lights, etc.). These can be modified by pure coding if you have the right hardware or by the aforementioned VAG-made or 3rd party tools, but you have the chance to effectively destroy the brains of the car if you do it wrong.
 
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My nc fights me all the way. My mil light came on today and stayed on but everything was working ok. I stopped and started a couple of times but it wouldn’t go away. I got home and searched the forum and read as many posts as I could. Decided to order the tools from Amazon which I did on prime they are being delivered tomorrow. Went in the garage started the bike and I can bet you know what’s coming next, no b******g light.
 
My nc fights me all the way. My mil light came on today and stayed on but everything was working ok. I stopped and started a couple of times but it wouldn’t go away. I got home and searched the forum and read as many posts as I could. Decided to order the tools from Amazon which I did on prime they are being delivered tomorrow. Went in the garage started the bike and I can bet you know what’s coming next, no b******g light.
Before resetting a MIL, I’d want to know what the fault was. Per post #9, it’s easy to read the MIL code yourself. With engine running, put bike in neutral and lower the sidestand. MIL will flash out the fault code in long and short flash sequences.
 
Before resetting a MIL, I’d want to know what the fault was. Per post #9, it’s easy to read the MIL code yourself. With engine running, put bike in neutral and lower the sidestand. MIL will flash out the fault code in long and short flash sequences.
Even if I find a fault code how do I find out what it means?
One thing I’ve just thought of is I’ve fitted a Healtech Speedohealer to correct my speedo it may be that causing the problem, but it has worked previously.
If the fault disappears will the light go out but the code remain?
 
Even if I find a fault code how do I find out what it means?
One thing I’ve just thought of is I’ve fitted a Healtech Speedohealer to correct my speedo it may be that causing the problem, but it has worked previously.
If the fault disappears will the light go out but the code remain?
If you don’t have the Honda service manual, post the fault code on the forum. Folks here that have a service manual will look up the code and tell you what it means.
 
Nice work Supertux. I just ordered the OBD2 adaptor to keep in the toolkit. Chasing these issues is inevitable on an aging, electronics-ridden machine.

This is how I do my chain - fast, lazy, but still pretty safe. I like my hands.
  1. Put it on the centerstand
  2. lube the chain with the engine off
  3. then use the engine to spin up the back wheel for a few seconds to draw the lube across the O rings.
  4. Turn the engine off, wipe off any excess, and you're done.
Did you receive the cable ?
Did you get an automotive OBD scan tool to read and display a data stream and or failure codes on a Honda motorcycle ?
 
Just managed to use my diagnostic reader and lead. It was that much trouble connecting the lead I’ve insulated it and left it connected behind the panel.
My fault codes were P0500 speed sensor A and P0600 serial communications link.
It also said my MIL light was off which it was.
Cleared the codes and retested twice all OK
 
Just managed to use my diagnostic reader and lead. It was that much trouble connecting the lead I’ve insulated it and left it connected behind the panel.
My fault codes were P0500 speed sensor A and P0600 serial communications link.
It also said my MIL light was off which it was.
Cleared the codes and retested twice all OK
Which lead and what tester ?
Where did you connect the tester and lead ? This comment “much trouble connecting the lead I’ve insulated it and left it connected behind the panel.” is confusing and might lead others off track.

Did the lead and tester actually make connection or communication with the bike to read a code, display a trouble code or display a data stream ????? ( Data stream means sensor values in real time.)

It is entirely possible all the lead and the tester is doing is the exact same connection ( function) the paper clip and or the HONDA SERVICE CHECK CONNECTOR is doing…….short or connecting two wires together in the condtion on the bike.

That service check connector has been in constant use since 1982 on all Honda fuel injected products. OBDI early 90’s. The OBDII on cars started in 1996.
 
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Which lead and what tester ?
Where did you connect the tester and lead ? This comment “much trouble connecting the lead I’ve insulated it and left it connected behind the panel.” is confusing and might lead others off track.

Did the lead and tester actually make connection or communication with the bike to read a code, display a trouble code or display a data stream ????? ( Data stream means sensor values in real time.)

It is entirely possible all the lead and the tester is doing is the exact same connection ( function) the paper clip and or the HONDA SERVICE CHECK CONNECTOR is doing…….short or connecting two wires together in the condtion on the bike.

That service check connector has been in constant use since 1982 on all Honda fuel injected products. OBDI early 90’s. The OBDII on cars started in 1996.
I used the scanner recommended in previous post from Amazon, and I used a different lead that said it was for Honda Kline or canbus. I connected the lead to the connector provided on the bike. For those who don’t know where it is it’s above the battery to the left plugged into a socket in the plastics. The difficulty I had with the connection was removing it from its socket and connecting the lead as the wire was very short and hard to grip.

The scanner makes the connection when you turn on the ignition and scans the bike with the engine running. It tells you the number of faults recorded and also lots more information like if the mil light is switched on. It displays the codes and the meaning of and much more. It gives you the option to clear the codes which I did.

I don’t think the paper clip method is quite as comprehensive, it may clear the light but not know what caused it in the first place.
 
Did you receive the cable ?
Did you get an automotive OBD scan tool to read and display a data stream and or failure codes on a Honda motorcycle ?

Actually yes, it did arrive, but two different known-good scan tools failed to detect the bike at all. But other members here seem to have it working, so who knows?
 
Actually yes, it did arrive, but two different known-good scan tools failed to detect the bike at all. But other members here seem to have it working, so who knows?
Until someone actually publishes pictures of a live data stream and code display that actually match’s a known problem/Honda code………this generic scan tool and generic Honda cable is a HUGE UNKNOWN.
 
Guess I'm gonna have to try this with my 2016 DCT NC700X....same problem. Changed oil, crank up on center stand, put in gear and let rear tire spin a bit, and MIL came on. Odd, because I've put both my 2013 and 2016 in gear on center stand and let the rear tire spin numerous times before with no faults.
 
Dear lord, where is the obd2 plug at on this thing? Looked all around the battery area, loosened plastics to see around the outside of the frunk, no idea where it's at!
 
Dear lord, where is the obd2 plug at on this thing? Looked all around the battery area, loosened plastics to see around the outside of the frunk, no idea where it's at!
It's my understanding that this Honda motorcycle does not use the OBD-II protocol, so I would not expect you to find an OBD-II plug.
 
It's my understanding that this Honda motorcycle does not use the OBD-II protocol, so I would not expect you to find an OBD-II plug.
Sorry, I got mixed up, scanned through this thread too quickly. Just went back and read more thoroughly. I see that an obd2 adapter is needed, but what I can't find on my bike is where the plug is located that the adapter plugs into (the more square looking 4 pin plug).

I unhooked battery yesterday and left it for about 2 or 3 minutes before hooking it back up, MIL still on and solid, still no flashing doing the leave running in neutral and dropping the kickstand thing. So best I can gather, only way to turn off the MIL is by using an OBD2 adapter and scan tool to "erase the code"......or take it to a dealer, and I'm def not doing that. Lol
 
Guess I'm gonna have to try this with my 2016 DCT NC700X....same problem. Changed oil, crank up on center stand, put in gear and let rear tire spin a bit, and MIL came on. Odd, because I've put both my 2013 and 2016 in gear on center stand and let the rear tire spin numerous times before with no faults.
Well, I guess I won’t be doing the “rear tire spin” anymore either. I’ve done that for years, cognizant of the risks of a moving chain, without throwing a MIL. I don’t think I’ll tempt fate further - just dodged a failed ignition lock so I’m not feeling terribly lucky right now. :rolleyes:
 
Dear lord, where is the obd2 plug at on this thing? Looked all around the battery area, loosened plastics to see around the outside of the frunk, no idea where it's at!
It’s a small red plug stored in the black plastic piece above the battery. It is not an OBDII connector and SUPPOSEDLY requires a specific Honda supplied connector for use with proprietary Honda diagnostic software but others have posted their scan tools worked with a generic adapter for a 4 pin female connector. My pen is pointing to it. It’s a simple 3 or 4 wire Hitachi connector.

05801B30-AC06-4115-B545-F040E08DD029.jpeg
 
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