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Ignition barrel, no dash.

Mrkitty2

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Greetings friends. I’m a courier on a manual ‘16 750X. 51k miles.

Had no trouble till today... came out from a drop, ignition key on, no dash. Clock fine, Hiss flashing. Cut a long story short, the AA man fixed it with a CABLE TIE.

The wires that come out of the ignition barrel have a dodgy connection. I’d identified that much before the AA arrived. I put my fingers down under the barrel to poke about and the dash came back on. But then went again. I assumed it was a trailer job.

The AA man identified that there was only one cable tie holding the wires against the barrel, (should be two, according to pics I’ve found) and thought that if he could get another against the wires, tightened up round the top yoke, it might go. And it did. So hats off to the AA. (I don’t have shares in them btw)

So tomorrow I’m lifting the top yoke and seeing what is what with those wires, and if it’s fixable. Any tips most welcome.

Thought I’d post this as a possible answer to any mystery ignition problems that aren’t fuses/bad earths, so forth.
 
Greetings friends. I’m a courier on a manual ‘16 750X. 51k miles.

Had no trouble till today... came out from a drop, ignition key on, no dash. Clock fine, Hiss flashing. Cut a long story short, the AA man fixed it with a CABLE TIE.

The wires that come out of the ignition barrel have a dodgy connection. I’d identified that much before the AA arrived. I put my fingers down under the barrel to poke about and the dash came back on. But then went again. I assumed it was a trailer job.

The AA man identified that there was only one cable tie holding the wires against the barrel, (should be two, according to pics I’ve found) and thought that if he could get another against the wires, tightened up round the top yoke, it might go. And it did. So hats off to the AA. (I don’t have shares in them btw)

So tomorrow I’m lifting the top yoke and seeing what is what with those wires, and if it’s fixable. Any tips most welcome.

Thought I’d post this as a possible answer to any mystery ignition problems that aren’t fuses/bad earths, so forth.
Greetings. I know this is a "late" response and you have probably solved your problem, but maybe another pointer. About 1 1/2 years ago my 2012 700X did the same...switch on and ignition went dead. After some trial & error I deduced the problem was the ignition steering lock causing a wiring problem. Since I had no cash to replace the lock I stopped engaging the steering lock and the problem has never re-ocurred. I use a disc lock instead.
 
Hi! Just seen this. I lifted the ignition barrel out and one of the two wires had broken at the solder joint… lots of blue copper corrosion dust. I assume the salt got up there and ate it. I lengthened the wire and resoldered it back on, then used my glue gun to seal both wires and their connections with a big blob of hot glue. But messy, but so far, so good.
 
Hi bigbird, thanks for your input. I’ve used hot glue for years in this way, never had any problems. Heat shrink wouldn’t help in this case, as the joint is right on the casing of the ignition barrel…
 
Silicon caulk also works - stays supple and is nonconductive. Guys that build boutique guitar pedals often use it to cover up their circuit card so you can’t see their “secret ingredients” on the board.
 
I used to use Silicon/RTV for years on electrical repairs until finding out there is vinager(acid) that is present in it and can lead to corrosion, was told thats why it has that smell. From then on I have used a small dab of dielectric grease and then covered with the Silicone/RTV. I will also use some dielectric after soldering before using heat shrink to cover and seal. Have not had any problems doing this on dirt/street bikes automotive doing this method for 40years now.
 
I am sure you are right about that. My younger brother is the chemical engineer of the family who has corrected me more than once.
 
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