Rydinon
Well-Known Member
I installed my Veridian CC this past week. I watched their video three times, toggling it on and off so I could look closely at what their tech was doing. My opinion only, they play fast and loose with editing the installation video. To be more specific, whoever was filming the installer, stopped and resumed filming. However, some things had changed as if the installer had continued or moved some of the connectors. He, (the installer) also plugged in connectors while describing what he was doing, then unplugged them, rerouted the wires and plugged connectors together again. Veridian seems to have taken no more than the minimum time with the instructions.
You will need both the printed instructions and the video to install this device. The printed instructions do a great job of ID-ing the connectors while the video shows you how to position the components. Important point: you cannot hope to match his 16 minute install time. I hope my comments here save you some grief. Until I got this figured out, I ‘installed’ the CC at least twice.
First, get some silicone grease (or other rubber friendly grease) for those big rubber grommets on the bike into which arrow shaped posts on fairing pieces fit. This will make future removal of the fairing much easier. Second, plan on taking off not only the side cowl pieces A and B, but also the right side shelter piece (this is immediately below the Frunk). This was mentioned in the video, and the installation is going to be involved enough that you might as well remove any and all pieces of tupperware that will be in the way. A service manual makes fairing removal less likely to break little plastic tabs.
The youtube video is basically correct. In a nutshell, there is an 8 pin connector in the wiring harness between the handlebar throttle and the engine. You will open this up, and insert matching male and female connectors from the CC module into the harness. You then connect the on/off/cruise switch to a connector that goes to the CC module, and one more red connector goes to the bike’s diagnostic port (adjacent to the battery). Finally, a purple wire is connected to the brake light wire. Easy, huh? The flies in the ointment are Honda’s connectors and wires are exactly long enough for Honda, and Veridian has done an excellent job of matching this frugality.
Some issues:
1. The connector that holds the brake wire - Honda wrapped the top of the beige connector’s plastic boot with tape and the vid notes you will have to remove it in order to slide the boot upward to gain access to the wires. I did this, and Honda used at least 18” of tape – removing it was no big deal, but replacing it to maintain the shielding of that connector from water will be no picnic. I tried doing it before connecting the male and female connector halves. I could not seat the connector so I removed it, connected the two pieces, positioned the boot and locked the assembly to the frame. Then I taped the top. Having worked with a number of brands of electrical tape (I’m a retired electrician) I strongly suggest you use Scotch 33+ by 3M. This tape stretches easily and the glue will outlast cheaper brands. Yes, a roll’s cost is somewhat outrageous (around $7 at Hopot today) when you can buy generic tape for a buck a roll, but the quality is absolutely first rate. Believe it, there is a significant difference in the qualities of various electrical tapes.
2. I used Veridian’s enclosed 3M connector for the brake wire. I read someone used a positap. Either will work, but I thought the positap would protrude into the plastic boot too far. If you use the provided connector a. make sure the brake wire is fully seated in the connector, b. per the video, be sure the purple wire goes all the way in its port, and c. positioning the connector the way the video shows works better than reversing it. I tried both ways.
3. All of Honda’s multi pin wiring connectors are held in place by little plastic clips that lock into metal brackets attached to the frame. Not mentioned in the video, is that the multi pin connectors slide down onto these anchors from above. You can release the clip from the frame by squeezing the 2 outside tabs on the back of the anchor (as mentioned in the video), to pop the anchor and connector loose from the bracket. This is very difficult. Access is limited, fingers are barely strong enough, and all your pliers will be too big or too small. Alternatively, if you look down on the connector from above, you will see where the connector joins the clip – there is a little tab with a slot. Press in (towards the connector) with a screwdriver and the connector slides up and off, leaving the clip still locked in the metal bracket. I’ve purloined two pictures from the Honda heated grip instructions to show you these clips and a wiring connector. The Male connector usually has a pocket to slip onto the clip.
4. I thought the video was not clear on one point. As I said, the CC interrupts the throttle control – you separate the two halves of this large connector and plug in the two mating connectors from the CC module, one into each of the bike’s connector halves. I separated the bike’s connectors, and tried plugging in its mate from the CC module – no problem. But now the second connector’s wires from the CC module was barely long enough to reach it’s mate. I did not realize that he swaps connectors – i.e. he removes the bike’s male connector from the clip (pictured above), then slips the module’s male connector onto the clip. Only the male part has a receptacle for the anchor. This will free up more wire on the bike’s wiring harness and allows you to clip the female from the module to the male clip that was just removed from the frame.
5. There is not much free wire to position the Veridian module. In the video he snaps the connectors together, opens them and reroutes the wires, and snaps them together again. I forgot exactly what he had done between my computer in the house and the bike in the garage. I snuck the module in behind the beige brake connector and zip tied it in place.
6. At the time of this writing, I’ve not tested the CC. I emailed Veridian asking what colors of LEDs should show when I turn the ignition on, and under what circumstances I should get a blue (ready to lock in a speed) light. The video guy says a yellow light is good, and if it flashes with a red when you hit the brake all is well. This is what Jackson Wiebe at Veridian said:
“Yes sorry for the confusion.
Yellow is technically NOT ready state. This is because the wheels need to be moving, you will only see the Blue READY when the bike is rolling.
If you have Yellow and it flashes with the brake, I would say you are ready to go.
A solid red would indicate no communication with the bike.
If you are nervous about it you can ride without the plastics around the block to test.
Jackson Wiebe
Veridian Cruise”
7. I don’t want you to think I’m nitpicking here and think Veridian did a poor job. The hardware looks excellent to me. I would just prefer to have more polished instructions that match the hardware.
See next post:
You will need both the printed instructions and the video to install this device. The printed instructions do a great job of ID-ing the connectors while the video shows you how to position the components. Important point: you cannot hope to match his 16 minute install time. I hope my comments here save you some grief. Until I got this figured out, I ‘installed’ the CC at least twice.
First, get some silicone grease (or other rubber friendly grease) for those big rubber grommets on the bike into which arrow shaped posts on fairing pieces fit. This will make future removal of the fairing much easier. Second, plan on taking off not only the side cowl pieces A and B, but also the right side shelter piece (this is immediately below the Frunk). This was mentioned in the video, and the installation is going to be involved enough that you might as well remove any and all pieces of tupperware that will be in the way. A service manual makes fairing removal less likely to break little plastic tabs.
The youtube video is basically correct. In a nutshell, there is an 8 pin connector in the wiring harness between the handlebar throttle and the engine. You will open this up, and insert matching male and female connectors from the CC module into the harness. You then connect the on/off/cruise switch to a connector that goes to the CC module, and one more red connector goes to the bike’s diagnostic port (adjacent to the battery). Finally, a purple wire is connected to the brake light wire. Easy, huh? The flies in the ointment are Honda’s connectors and wires are exactly long enough for Honda, and Veridian has done an excellent job of matching this frugality.
Some issues:
1. The connector that holds the brake wire - Honda wrapped the top of the beige connector’s plastic boot with tape and the vid notes you will have to remove it in order to slide the boot upward to gain access to the wires. I did this, and Honda used at least 18” of tape – removing it was no big deal, but replacing it to maintain the shielding of that connector from water will be no picnic. I tried doing it before connecting the male and female connector halves. I could not seat the connector so I removed it, connected the two pieces, positioned the boot and locked the assembly to the frame. Then I taped the top. Having worked with a number of brands of electrical tape (I’m a retired electrician) I strongly suggest you use Scotch 33+ by 3M. This tape stretches easily and the glue will outlast cheaper brands. Yes, a roll’s cost is somewhat outrageous (around $7 at Hopot today) when you can buy generic tape for a buck a roll, but the quality is absolutely first rate. Believe it, there is a significant difference in the qualities of various electrical tapes.
2. I used Veridian’s enclosed 3M connector for the brake wire. I read someone used a positap. Either will work, but I thought the positap would protrude into the plastic boot too far. If you use the provided connector a. make sure the brake wire is fully seated in the connector, b. per the video, be sure the purple wire goes all the way in its port, and c. positioning the connector the way the video shows works better than reversing it. I tried both ways.
3. All of Honda’s multi pin wiring connectors are held in place by little plastic clips that lock into metal brackets attached to the frame. Not mentioned in the video, is that the multi pin connectors slide down onto these anchors from above. You can release the clip from the frame by squeezing the 2 outside tabs on the back of the anchor (as mentioned in the video), to pop the anchor and connector loose from the bracket. This is very difficult. Access is limited, fingers are barely strong enough, and all your pliers will be too big or too small. Alternatively, if you look down on the connector from above, you will see where the connector joins the clip – there is a little tab with a slot. Press in (towards the connector) with a screwdriver and the connector slides up and off, leaving the clip still locked in the metal bracket. I’ve purloined two pictures from the Honda heated grip instructions to show you these clips and a wiring connector. The Male connector usually has a pocket to slip onto the clip.
4. I thought the video was not clear on one point. As I said, the CC interrupts the throttle control – you separate the two halves of this large connector and plug in the two mating connectors from the CC module, one into each of the bike’s connector halves. I separated the bike’s connectors, and tried plugging in its mate from the CC module – no problem. But now the second connector’s wires from the CC module was barely long enough to reach it’s mate. I did not realize that he swaps connectors – i.e. he removes the bike’s male connector from the clip (pictured above), then slips the module’s male connector onto the clip. Only the male part has a receptacle for the anchor. This will free up more wire on the bike’s wiring harness and allows you to clip the female from the module to the male clip that was just removed from the frame.
5. There is not much free wire to position the Veridian module. In the video he snaps the connectors together, opens them and reroutes the wires, and snaps them together again. I forgot exactly what he had done between my computer in the house and the bike in the garage. I snuck the module in behind the beige brake connector and zip tied it in place.
6. At the time of this writing, I’ve not tested the CC. I emailed Veridian asking what colors of LEDs should show when I turn the ignition on, and under what circumstances I should get a blue (ready to lock in a speed) light. The video guy says a yellow light is good, and if it flashes with a red when you hit the brake all is well. This is what Jackson Wiebe at Veridian said:
“Yes sorry for the confusion.
Yellow is technically NOT ready state. This is because the wheels need to be moving, you will only see the Blue READY when the bike is rolling.
If you have Yellow and it flashes with the brake, I would say you are ready to go.
A solid red would indicate no communication with the bike.
If you are nervous about it you can ride without the plastics around the block to test.
Jackson Wiebe
Veridian Cruise”
7. I don’t want you to think I’m nitpicking here and think Veridian did a poor job. The hardware looks excellent to me. I would just prefer to have more polished instructions that match the hardware.
See next post:
