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Installing GPS - need help about a Fuse box

Afan

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I'm installing my new GPS. I already have the wires for 3 other devices (USB ports, phone charger and heating gear wire) connected directly to the battery. Wrong, I know. I'm trying to fix it now. I know there is a device that manages all these wires, fuses... Not sure what's the correct name, Fuse box, Auxiliary fuse box, Auxiliary fuse block... And the Power switch/relay to disconnect everything once the engine is off (did I say it right?).

So, if you can help me to find good one for my 2013 NC700X DT, performance and size wise. And where is the best place to put it. If I remember well, somebody said he has it in the Owners Manual Box, at the bottom of the frunk?

Thanks, I appreciate any help.
 

bigbird

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Since you have the oldest generation of NC, you have lots of room behind the left and right upper covers.
You can mount a fuse block easily in the gaps between the covers and the inner panels.
I use an Eastern Beaver fuse block, and they make custom wire harnesses specifically for the NC to make wiring easier.
Here's their link:


Healtech makes a new product called the Thunderbox.
They are easier to wire and connect if you don't like soldering and/or splicing:


There are many, many other fuse blocks for motorcycles out there.
Google is your friend for NC700/750 installations.
 

halfSpinDoctor

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Eastern Beaver makes awesome stuff. Be aware shipping is very slow from Japan.

I was also about to suggest the alternative route that CapeMan just posted about above. You could tap into the 6P connector on the left side of the bike, and use that for some or all of your accessories. I have a 5V phone charger in the frunk, heated grips, and extra running lights all running off of this one 30A 7.5A fused, switched circuit.

Depending how much current the heated gear draws, that may still require a direct connection to the battery or otherwise separate circuit.

**EDITED: Thanks to 670cc for pointing out that I had mistakenly typed 30A instead of the correct value of 7.5A**
 
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670cc

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Eastern Beaver makes awesome stuff. Be aware shipping is very slow from Japan.

I was also about to suggest the alternative route that CapeMan just posted about above. You could tap into the 6P connector on the left side of the bike, and use that for some or all of your accessories. I have a 5V phone charger in the frunk, heated grips, and extra running lights all running off of this one 30A fused, switched circuit. Depending how much current the heated gear draws, that may still require a direct connection to the battery or otherwise separate circuit.
The original (2012-2015) Honda accessory harness, fuse, and relay kit had small wire and was fused at a combined total of 7.5 amps. I was not aware they had upped the wire size and fuse size to handle 30 amps.
 

bigbird

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The original (2012-2015) Honda accessory harness had small wire and was fused at a combined total of 7.5 amps. I was not aware they had upped the wire size and fuse size to handle 30 amps.
Honda hasn't upped any wire sizes, it's still 7.5A for the Honda accessory harness.
The nice thing about fuse blocks is that the main positive wire running to the battery is spec'd to handle 30-40A, and sometimes even more.
Eastern Beaver's PC-8 fuse block is designed to handle 60A total, 40A switched and 20A unswitched:

 

Afan

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Thank you for your suggestions, and sorry for not responding earlier.
I really like Healtech/Thunderbox option because it's really simple to install, and I would like to install Brake Light Pro too. I think I'm going with Healtech. :)

P.S. Any suggestions about the flashing headlight option?
 

670cc

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P.S. Any suggestions about the flashing headlight option?
Just to be sure we’re on the same page, by flashing headlight, do you mean a headlight modulator, or something else? Are you running the stock halogen incandescent front headlight bulb, or an aftermarket LED unit?
 

Afan

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Just to be sure we’re on the same page, by flashing headlight, do you mean a headlight modulator, or something else? Are you running the stock halogen incandescent front headlight bulb, or an aftermarket LED unit?
Yes, the headlight modulator. Thanks for clearing it up.
And stock headlight bulb, but I'm open to any improvement. :)
 

670cc

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Yes, the headlight modulator. Thanks for clearing it up.
And stock headlight bulb, but I'm open to any improvement. :)
The reason i asked about stock bulb vs LED is that for LED, the modulator must be LED compatible. If the modulator can’t properly modulate an LED, it won’t fall within the intensity variation specifications described in the regulations. Having a halogen is fine. I use a modulator with the stock lamp. I would love to tell you what brand and model modulator I have, but I don’t remember. I will post it at my earliest convenience.

Any motorcycle headlamp modulator sold in the US for a halogen lamp should meet meet the vehicle code with your stock headlamp. You probably can’t go wrong. Their function is basic and they all work the same way, again according to the law that allows headlight modulators on motorcycles.
 

Afan

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The reason i asked about stock bulb vs LED is that for LED, the modulator must be LED compatible. If the modulator can’t properly modulate an LED, it won’t fall within the intensity variation specifications described in the regulations. Having a halogen is fine. I use a modulator with the stock lamp. I would love to tell you what brand and model modulator I have, but I don’t remember. I will post it at my earliest convenience.

Any motorcycle headlamp modulator sold in the US for a halogen lamp should meet meet the vehicle code with your stock headlamp. You probably can’t go wrong. Their function is basic and they all work the same way, again according to the law that allows headlight modulators on motorcycles.

I had a headlight modulator on my old ST1100, halogen bulb, and it worked just fine.
And, I passed cops several times in Iowa and never was stopped. So, it's probably legit in Iowa, or belongs to the "group of activities" that are mostly tolerated (like 10% over the speed limit ;) )
 
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670cc

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I had a headlight modulator on my old ST1100, halogen bulb, and it worked just fine.
And, I passed cops several times in Iowa and never was stopped. So, it's probably legit in Iowa, or belongs to the "group of activities" that are mostly tolerated (like 10% over the speed limit ;) )
I carry with me a copy of the federal code that describes and permits use of headlight modulators in all 50 states in the US. State law cannot supersede federal law regarding the permission to use a modulator, as long as it complies in design and function. If the Iowa cops were to have stopped you for having a legitimate modulator, it would be because of their ignorance, not your negligence.

Summary: Properly operated headlight modulators are permitted in all 50 states in the USA.
 

Afan

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I carry with me a copy of the federal code that describes and permits use of headlight modulators in all 50 states in the US. State law cannot supersede federal law regarding the permission to use a modulator, as long as it complies in design and function. If the Iowa cops were to have stopped you for having a legitimate modulator, it would be because of their ignorance, not your negligence.

Summary: Properly operated headlight modulators are permitted in all 50 states in the USA.
Good one!
 

GregC

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I installed the Innov Powerhub as my "fuse block" in my 2015 DCT. Very easy install with all accessories, common ground, and delay start up so you don't overload the system on startup.


I had a Kriss headlight modulator but changed to an LED bulb and did not feel like buying a new modulator for the LED - with my LED aux lights I feel like I'm plenty visible (along with my hi viz gear).
 
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