Instrument panel intermittently cuts out when bike is running

robskinn

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After starting the engine and running the bike for 15 minutes or so, the power to the instrument panel cuts out intermittently then comes on again. It does this continually, but if I leave the bike for a while to cool down it behaves normally until the engine has been running for a while.

I've ruled out a problem with the battery, checked all the fuses and cleaned out all of the connections to the instrument panel. With my limited knowledge of electrical issues I've 'possibly' narrowed it down to;
  • Rectifier.
  • Alternator.
  • Earth connections.
  • Faulty instrument panel problem.
  • Faulty wiring.

Any help would be most appreciated!
 

HarveyM

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For charging problems you should get a voltage meter on the running bike. Multi-meters are pretty cheap. Generally 14 to 14.8 volts is normal for a running bike. Higher than 15 volts cooks the battery. But if electric power loss was the problem you would see running problems too. I suspect the service manual would suggest 'test instrument panel with known good panel'
 
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showkey

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Is all power lost to the cluster or is the information data like road speed or engine speed being lost......
the red/blue wire to the cluster is the data line?

Faulty wiring or connector should be high on the check list:

Can be as simple loose ground wire ( or positive) at the battery

Soft set connector .......that where a connector looks like it’s fully seated but it’s not. Especially if the bike has been worked on recently.

Corrosion on any connectors is a problem Caused by prolonged water intrusion.

Some have reported ....just unplug and reconnect the 16 pin connector at the cluster resolves some issues. The data line is CANBUS a signal with multiple bits of information on the single wire.
individual pins and sockets of the connector are loose where the pin/socket lost its tension.
 

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670cc

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If you haven’t already done so, you need to measure the actual “12” volt voltage during the scenarios where the display blanks out. Multimeter’s are very inexpensive these days. The voltage will yield some clues about the health of the charging system.
 

robskinn

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Is all power lost to the cluster or is the information data like road speed or engine speed being lost......
the red/blue wire to the cluster is the data line?

Faulty wiring or connector should be high on the check list:

Can be as simple loose ground wire ( or positive) at the battery

Soft set connector .......that where a connector looks like it’s fully seated but it’s not. Especially if the bike has been worked on recently.

Corrosion on any connectors is a problem Caused by prolonged water intrusion.

Some have reported ....just unplug and reconnect the 16 pin connector at the cluster resolves some issues. The data line is CANBUS a signal with multiple bits of information on the single wire.
individual pins and sockets of the connector are loose where the pin/socket lost its tension.
No, not all the power is lost. Everything in the LCD part cuts out but the neutral gear indicator and indicators lights are OK. As I mentioned in my post, the display does work until the engine has been running for 10 minutes or so... although this morning it did seem a little dimmer than usual.

Will try ground wire connection(s), as that's an inexpensive place to start. If I recall correctly I think the service manual said they were under the tank (storage).
Thanks
 

robskinn

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If you haven’t already done so, you need to measure the actual “12” volt voltage during the scenarios where the display blanks out. Multimeter’s are very inexpensive these days. The voltage will yield some clues about the health of the charging system.
I have tested the battery with a voltage metre recently and the results were normal. The voltage was normal with engine off and was 14+ volts when revved to 3,00 ish rpm. I'm running a new battery as of yesterday but will test again to make sure this is consistent when the power cuts from the display. Thanks
 

lootzyan

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No, not all the power is lost. Everything in the LCD part cuts out but the neutral gear indicator and indicators lights are OK. ...
This appears to be an internal problem with the instrument's display. This combination meter has two external power wires. One is directly from the power supply (battery or alternator) to the internal clock. The second is controlled by an ignition switch. And one ground wire. If there was a problem with the external connection, the display would be completely off.
 

robskinn

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This appears to be an internal problem with the instrument's display.
Thanks for the lead Lootzyan, appreciate it! I'm taking it off tonight to inspect it and see if there are any obvious signs of corrosion, water ingress etc... At least if it is that, it's easily replaced.
 

davidc83

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When it cuts out, stop, put bike in neutral, do not turn off engine, and put down the kickstand and see if the MIL (check engine light) starts blinking...There may be long flashes and then short flashes...if it does, count them and that is the MIL code...When you checked the battery, did you disconnect the terminals and clean the battery posts and the cable connectors and then reconnect?
 

robskinn

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When it cuts out, stop, put bike in neutral, do not turn off engine, and put down the kickstand and see if the MIL (check engine light) starts blinking...There may be long flashes and then short flashes...if it does, count them and that is the MIL code...When you checked the battery, did you disconnect the terminals and clean the battery posts and the cable connectors and then reconnect?
Yes, I didn’t mention in my previous post but I originally took it to a garage for them to read the error code which came back as ‘power lost to the display’, or something along those lines. I already knew that it was losing power to the dash and it didn’t elaborate any further. I suppose if they problem started elsewhere it could be useful.
 

robskinn

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Thanks for the lead Lootzyan, appreciate it! I'm taking it off tonight to inspect it and see if there are any obvious signs of corrosion, water ingress etc... At least if it is that, it's easily replaced.
Further to this. I took apart the dash and it was indeed wet inside. Enough for drops to roll out. Dried out, cleaned with alcohol solution put back together and now nothing showing up on LDC part at all. Have ordered another replacement display so will update the post with my results.
 

robskinn

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I have tested the battery with a voltage metre recently and the results were normal. The voltage was normal with engine off and was 14+ volts when revved to 3,00 ish rpm. I'm running a new battery as of yesterday but will test again to make sure this is consistent when the power cuts from the display. Thanks
Tested battery again when dash cut out. Working normally. 12.3v when off. 14.3v at 2,000 revs +
 

lootzyan

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If you don't have too much to do ;) before you get a new combination meter, you can also try to dry it in rice. At least once I remember that someone temporarily managed to dry the meter in rice and run it for some time. But I do not think it would be successful in home or even workshop conditions to effectively seal the meter against condensation.
 

robskinn

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If you don't have too much to do ;) before you get a new combination meter, you can also try to dry it in rice. At least once I remember that someone temporarily managed to dry the meter in rice and run it for some time. But I do not think it would be successful in home or even workshop conditions to effectively seal the meter against condensation.
Yes, I've heard that rice can help remove moisture. Thanks. I did leave it in the sun for a couple of hours this morning and continued to dry it off with a hairdryer to get under the circuit board and it looked bone dry but could have had some residue trapped.
 
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lootzyan

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You could try first using something like WD-40 SPECIALIST Contact Cleaner to remove any dried-out electrically conductive remnants from the surface of the circuit board, then dry. Use canned dry air for drying.
 

robskinn

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So it turned out that the problem was a faulty instrument panel. I installed a new (second hand) one this weekend and it worked like new. I didn't have the time to clean the faulty one, but when I do I'll update this post. Thanks, everyone for the help and suggestions on this.
 

670cc

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Thanks for your follow up posting on the problem resolution!
 
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