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Is this normal.on stock break pads?

RubyRider

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There is chamfering on the edge of the stock pads, is this normal? Is this why they suck?
 

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I looked at my spare set of Honda OEM rear brake pads, still in the package. They look like what you show in your photo.

Explain “Is this why they suck?”
 
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I looked at my spare set of Honda OEM rear brake pads, still in the package. They look like what you show in your photo.

Explain “Is this why they suck?”
I have read a lot of people don't really like the stock pads since they don't seem to be super grippy. Looking at them now, I can see why. I swapped them out for a set of EBC pads.
 
I have read a lot of people don't really like the stock pads since they don't seem to be super grippy. Looking at them now, I can see why. I swapped them out for a set of EBC pads.
Sounds good. I’ve been happy with the stock pads. In the past when I installed “higher performance“ pads on a Goldwing, I ended up removing them because they were too “grabby” and there was the chance they can increase disk wear. Your old pads look to have plenty of life left. Someone may want to buy them for cheap, or you may later want to reinstall them, so don’t toss the old ones just yet.
 
Sounds good. I’ve been happy with the stock pads. In the past when I installed “higher performance“ pads on a Goldwing, I ended up removing them because they were to “grabby” and there was the chance they can increase disk wear. Your old pads look to have plenty of life left. Someone may want to buy them for cheap, or you may later want to reinstall them, so don’t toss the old ones just yet.
I have been wishing my breaks were more grabby, but we'll see. I am definitly hanging onto them
 
That chamfering has nothing to do with being grippy, if anything it does reduce surface area somewhat as compared to non chamfered pads, but the grip lies moreso in the composition of the pad itself. The stock pads aren't terrible, but not as good as EBC HH sintered pads. My 2016 has stock pads and my 2013 has EBC HH pads. I like the EBC's, but I only put them on the 2013 because I run it on track and need all the brakes I can get. The stock pads are decent for aggressive street riding, I don't intend to swap the ones on my 2016 out for EBC's until they are worn out.

Also for what it's worth, the stock pads are HH rated as well. It is my understanding that all HH pads are not created equally though. HH is a friction rating and two pads that both fall under the range of this friction rating can still have better/less performance than the other.

I've used EBC HH sintered pads on most all my bikes, even on my cruiser now. I like them.
 
That chamfering has nothing to do with being grippy, if anything it does reduce surface area somewhat as compared to non chamfered pads, but the grip lies moreso in the composition of the pad itself. The stock pads aren't terrible, but not as good as EBC HH sintered pads. My 2016 has stock pads and my 2013 has EBC HH pads. I like the EBC's, but I only put them on the 2013 because I run it on track and need all the brakes I can get. The stock pads are decent for aggressive street riding, I don't intend to swap the ones on my 2016 out for EBC's until they are worn out.

Also for what it's worth, the stock pads are HH rated as well. It is my understanding that all HH pads are not created equally though. HH is a friction rating and two pads that both fall under the range of this friction rating can still have better/less performance than the other.

I've used EBC HH sintered pads on most all my bikes, even on my cruiser now. I like them.
We'll see what I like better, not able to ride yet since my chain needs adjusting, I should be up and running tomorow though. I am gonna keep my stock pads just in case. might be too much the other way.
 
Have always preferred stock pads on any Honda bikes. Likewise for my 250. EBC are good but would be second choice for me.
 
Chamfering the pads is often done to control noise.

Brake pads are a compromise between performance hot/cold, wet/dry, noise, brake dust, longevity, pad wear vs disk wear.

Picture is Goldwing disk that aggressive aftermarket pads were used, they “dished“ the rotor to the point it was unusable. The rotor is suppose to perfectly flat.
 

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Chamfering the pads is often done to control noise.

Brake pads are a compromise between performance hot/cold, wet/dry, noise, brake dust, longevity, pad wear vs disk wear.

Picture is Goldwing disk that aggressive aftermarket pads were used, they “dished“ the rotor to the point it was unusable. The rotor is suppose to perfectly flat.
I am now terrified of aftermarket pads
 
Chamfering the pads is often done to control noise.

Brake pads are a compromise between performance hot/cold, wet/dry, noise, brake dust, longevity, pad wear vs disk wear.

Picture is Goldwing disk that aggressive aftermarket pads were used, they “dished“ the rotor to the point it was unusable. The rotor is suppose to perfectly flat.
I feel like this is a very misleading post. This picture doesn't tell the whole story without disclosing exactly how many miles was on that rotor.

A more aggressive pad will eat rotors quicker, no doubt about it....it's all about the type of material used in the pad. Not sure whether the owner of that rotor is you or you found that pic somewhere, but the owner could have went through a couple sets of oem pads, swapped to aftermarket, then later on eventually noticed the rotor needs replaced. Not a big deal. Rotors are consumable parts on bikes just as they are on automobiles.

One con to running aggressive pads is that they wear the rotors faster than oem pads, but to what degree? And with that comes better stopping power. You just have to decide what works best for you. It's not like you throw a set of EBC pads on and you have to buy new rotors next year. Nowhere near like that. My old ZX10R had 20k miles on it when I crashed it. The last 12-14k of those miles were with EBC HH pads on it. I done A LOT of aggressive street riding on that machine and around 10 hard trackdays....rotors still looked fine.

Also note, that Goldwing weighs 850ish lbs....about the same weight as my 2006 Kawasaki Vulcan Nomad 1600 cruiser. I have EBC HH sintered pads on it. It had 13k miles on it when I bought it 5 years ago. It's got 32k miles on it now and the EBC pads have been on there for around 15k+ miles....rotors still look perfect, not grooved out at all.

Will post rotor pics below.
 
Cruiser rotors....still look brand new. 32k miles total, 15k+ miles on EBC pads.

20201203_125528.jpg

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My NC700X track bike front rotor, after multiple trackdays and hard street riding before it went to full track mode. Rotor been VERY hot and is starting to blue....but not grooved out. EBC's stop good!

20201203_125611.jpg
 
Rode around a bit today to seat the brakes, so far, no notable difference. Likely need more time to seat

They have to break in. In a week or two, depending on how much you ride, you will notice a difference.

You had rotors worn to the pads that were on it before....now you've put new pads on used rotors and the surfaces do not match. Once the new pads wear to the rotors, or vice versa, they will most definitely stop better than oem. Although with oem already being HH pads, it's not going to be a night and day drastic difference like going from brakes on a Toyota Prius to those of a Corvette....but it will be noticeable.
 
I feel like this is a very misleading post. This picture doesn't tell the whole story without disclosing exactly how many miles was on that rotor.

A more aggressive pad will eat rotors quicker, no doubt about it....it's all about the type of material used in the pad. Not sure whether the owner of that rotor is you or you found that pic somewhere, but the owner could have went through a couple sets of oem pads, swapped to aftermarket, then later on eventually noticed the rotor needs replaced. Not a big deal. Rotors are consumable.......

As a very general rule Honda ( motorcycle) rotors are very hard and wear very little with most pads. Honda rotors rarely need replacing even above 100k. Honda rotors are so hard they are not usually refinished, plus there’s really not a a lot of excess meat to work with.

The rotor in the picture was off a 1983 Goldwing standard model. The aftermarket pads were not identified but were semi metallic pad. The bike had less than 60k. I owned the bike, bought it used and did do the original pads swap. I just got to clean up the mess.

As far pad wear vs rotor wear..........German cars and trucks are the poster child for consuming the rotor and pad at the same rate. It’s very common one set of front rotors one set of pads.
 
My point was that context is everything. You could have two identical bikes set up the exact same way, but two very different riders with different riding styles, and have components like pads and rotors wear out at drastically different intervals. To just post a pic of a worn out rotor and say "Aftermarket pads did this!" is misleading in the fact that it immediately scares people, who don't know any differently, away from something they may actually value the benefits of over the associated con, i.e. prematurely wearing rotors over an extended period of time. Most people don't even keep the same bike long enough to wear out a set of rotors, regardless of the pad they are using. Several do, I'm just saying the period that it would take to wear a set of rotors that bad is quite a long time, longer than most keep a single bike.
 
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