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Is this patchable?

Wow...wanna donate to the cause? Haha. I grabbed an NC because it was cheap to buy, cheap to run, and fuel efficient compared to my car (which only takes premium gas). If I could afford to spend $300 every time I got a puncture I would have probably picked other options. I'm prepared to if need be, but while I think there's a chance of only spending $60-odd to patch it, I'm going to try that route.

Understood.

Here's my ST angle:
When I'm out riding in the middle of nowhere ("no where" or "now here"?), on a ~750 LB bike, with a lady-friend on the pillion, and the panniers and top-box full of STuff, I don't want to be spending the ride thinking, "I hope the patch holds, I hope the patch holds" :cool:

Okay, that's the ST.

The NC, I might patch it, since I only use it to commute (30 miles round-trip), run errands, and maybe some around-town riding. This bike sees 40-45 MPH, with the occasional 60-65 MPH. Rare to have the lady pillion on it (maybe to go grab some ice-cream).

The CBR? Probably replace the tire. The dirt bike? Patch it.
 
The problem with plug repairs is that sometimes they come out but another consideration that most miss is that there may be internal damage and the tire has to be removed for inspection. I've done repairs on tires where someone has used a plug and found the screw still inside the tire rolling around and doing damage. I've also seen sidewall damage from the "nail" that went in at an angle. The only proper way to do a repair is to remove the tire from the rim. The province of Ontario is considering legislation outlawing plug repairs. Wonder why that is? Also makes you wonder why the tire shop you were considering for the repair wanted you to sign a waiver. Motorcycle riding is a dangerous sport, why make it worse for a repair that only costs $40 (if you remove your wheel).
 
Understood.

Here's my ST angle:
When I'm out riding in the middle of nowhere ("no where" or "now here"?), on a ~750 LB bike, with a lady-friend on the pillion, and the panniers and top-box full of STuff, I don't want to be spending the ride thinking, "I hope the patch holds, I hope the patch holds" :cool:

Okay, that's the ST.

The NC, I might patch it, since I only use it to commute (30 miles round-trip), run errands, and maybe some around-town riding. This bike sees 40-45 MPH, with the occasional 60-65 MPH. Rare to have the lady pillion on it (maybe to go grab some ice-cream).

The CBR? Probably replace the tire. The dirt bike? Patch it.


And that's exactly what I use my NC for - commuting (30 mile round-trip), running errands, and some around town (the same town, it appears) riding.

After today's discussion, tomorrow I'm going to visit the shop I called, check out what plug/patch they use, and if it's the ones 670cc mentioned go for it. If not, I'll look for sticky rope at Walmart or Autozone. If I can't find that, it's off the Cycle Gear to find either a better patch kit than what the shop has (to be done without removing the tire), or the last resort, buy a new tire (assuming they stock our size in either a PR3 or 4). Either way, if has to get fixed this weekend - I've hated just leaving it and taking the car to work everyday this week.
 
I just recently replaced the tires on my car, low profile, sporty things. I had a similar problem within the first month of those original tires. I had the tire plugged. It was fine for 30+K miles. Granted that was a car vs a motorcycle. And I think that's an important distinction. While anecdotally many of us have had good luck with patches, we are talking about a motorcycle. If the tire rapidly deflates while at any significant speed, it's going to be a bad thing. The cost of a new tire isn't nearly as high as other potential costs. I think if you can afford it, replace. If you can't plug it, but plan to replace as soon as you can afford to. Just my two cents...and we know that's not worth much these days. ;)
 
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Completely ignore the advice of a professional and do it the half *** way. Sounds like a plan.

I think I'm going to fix my gas furnace tomorrow. Should only cost me $10 bucks.
 
Completely ignore the advice of a professional and do it the half *** way. Sounds like a plan.

I think I'm going to fix my gas furnace tomorrow. Should only cost me $10 bucks.

Oh relax. Plenty of people are providing success stories - its works for many and fails for few. If my commute was on the highway and I was constantly rolling at 70mph I would definitely go ahead and replace it. As it is, my commute is in the city and rarely gets me over 40mph. Any issues that occur will not cause me too much of a concern. If everyone was saying patching it is a stupid idea and guaranteed to get me killed, I wouldn't waste any time in picking up a tire.

It's also worth noting that this is a slow puncture - while resting on the side stand the tire would not deflate below 15psi. I'm gonna pump that bad boy up and ride it to the shop as I have at least 30 mins riding time above 30psi. The entry into the inner side of the tire is going to be small, so a plug should effectively fill the hole as long as the angle of entry is favorable (if it's not, I'm not taking the gamble).

PS If your gas furnace could be fixed with a part that many have had good experiences with, you'd probably go ahead and do it vs. paying hundreds more for the heck of it. My money is sadly spent on rent and student tuition with little left over.
 
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I just recently replaced the tires on my car, low profile, sporty things. I had a similar problem within the first month of those original tires. I had the tire plugged. It was fine for 30+K miles. Granted that was a car vs a motorcycle. And I think that's an important distinction. While anecdotally many of us have had good luck with patches, we are talking about a motorcycle. If the tire rapidly deflates while at any significant speed, it's going to be a bad thing. The cost of a new tire isn't nearly as high as other potential costs. I think if you can afford it, replace. If you can't plug it, but plan to replace as soon as you can afford to. Just my two cents...and we know that's not worth much these days. ;)

This actually reminds me that I, too, have a patch on one of my low profile tires. I had completely forgotten about that. I've done thousands of miles over the years since, though I'm down to the minimal (inspection passing) tread now, so that's more tires to buy in my near future.
 
Your absolutely correct, I should relax. I guess it comes down to what each individual defines as acceptable risk. If it works for you go for it. I would propose another method. Why not take the tire/rim assembly off the bike yourself. The NC rear tire comes off very easily and you will learn how to do it. You could just bring it in and have someone remove the tire, inspect the damage and repair for the inside. You could do this tomorrow and be riding by Sunday.

PS, If my gas furnance needs a filter, no problem. If it stops working I call my furnace repair guy. I wouldn't risk my family and property. A little bit of knowledge can be a dangerous thing.
 
+1 on acceptable risk and taking the wheel off myself. However, my apartment complex does not allow people to work on their vehicles - I got a written notice just for cleaning and lubing the chain a month ago so in future will have to go somewhere else to do it.

Logistically speaking, it is difficult for me to take the bike somewhere else, remove the wheel (I really would be open to learning more about the bike) and then taking it somewhere for repair. This is why I had to look into a local shop to look at it - and they will patch it from the inside, which is a better job than I could do.


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Did you ever notice they do not show cars or motorcycles on the label.......


X001-Y001.jpg

VS

2021-A_10-150_Truck-SUV_Tire_Gauge.jpg



read the labels it gets worse
 
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Maybe a forum member in the Houston area could help you out. Hint hint!

I understand the problem width living in an apt and not being able to do it for yourself. If you do decide to take it in get a quote on what it would cost. A repair on a NC would run around $80 in our shop and only go to a shop that specializes in motorcycle tire repair.
 
The province of Ontario is considering legislation outlawing plug repairs. Wonder why that is?

Lobbyists with $$$ to ply politician-lawyers.
Creeping nanny-statism.

If they cared about public safety vis-a-vis tires they'd outlaw 18-wheeler retreads. I watch highways for a living and the amount of heavy retread flying through the air and deposited on the lanes (and motorists) is amazing. Know why they don't outlaw those? Transportation lobbyist $$$.



Also makes you wonder why the tire shop you were considering for the repair wanted you to sign a waiver.

Lawyers.
 
This is a very heated debate every time and every where it comes up.........like oil, battery jump starts, chain lube, engine break in and other hot buttons.

This comes from a RV forum that had about 8 pages on the subject. The EU does not like plugging......this was just part of the discussion, this was the British, supposly the French and other all have regs on this at least for commercial repair facilities.
See section 3d in the link below.......British have banned tire sealant repairs and outside tire plugging:

http://www.btmauk.com/data/files/Minor_repairs_to_passenger_car_and_light_van_tyres_31_May_2011.pdf

Basically everyone is happy with the quick and cheap repair until it goes bad.
 
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Showkey, One question. If an individual applies a sealant such as Ride On or Slime as a preventive measure then is unaware that it sealed a puncture is he/she guilty of something per the technical advisory?
 
I have tried plugs and Slime both. In some cases they worked. On other cases, they didn't. One thing to remember, is to check your tires frequently. In other words, don't assume the tire repair is good and get an unpleasant surprise later.

Chris
 
I bought a punctured tire from a forum member. The size and angle of the puncture was nearly identical to what you show. I used a Stop & Go "plug patch" installed from the inside before I mounted the tire. The repair was made at 250 tire miles. It's now at 7000 tire miles with no air leakage ever. I have confidence in this type of repair. The down side is the tire must be dismounted to install it.

View attachment 20114

All done. The guy used the patches mentioned by 670cc above that were applied to the inside of the tire, and "covered everything in glue when installing it." Looks like a pretty good seal.

One thing he did notice though after putting on the rear wheel and tightening all the bolts is that the rear caliper moves when the brakes are applied. Is that normal for everyone? Basically, if you apply the rear while backing up, the caliper will rotate backwards a little - while gripping the wheel - before hitting a stop. If you then roll forwards and apply the rear again, it'l grip again but rock forward a little until it hits the forward stop. Once against the front stop, it won't budge again unless you roll backwards and use it again. I don't see it being a major issue, but was curious if it was a known quirk.

He also took the NC for a spin afterwards having "only seen it in magazines" and came back with a huge grin on his face. He loved it - couldn't stop saying how awesome it was - so I think he is a fan.

ImageUploadedByTapatalk1410022839.358838.jpg


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The rear brake isn't on correctly. Fix that now!

There is a nub on the swing arm that a slot on the caliper bracket fits on. The nub keeps the bracket in place so it doesn't rotate. If the bracket is above the nub, if you let the bike roll back with the brake on or are holding the bike on a hill with the rear brake the bracket/caliper will rotate backward until the brake hose runs out of length and then the hose is trying to hold the bike. If the bracket is below the nub then it will roll forward until the caliper itself hits the swing arm. Either way it isn't on correctly.

BTW the nub is easy to miss when installing the rear wheel.
 
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One thing he did notice though after putting on the rear wheel and tightening all the bolts is that the rear caliper moves when the brakes are applied. Is that normal for everyone? Basically, if you apply the rear while backing up, the caliper will rotate backwards a little - while gripping the wheel - before hitting a stop. If you then roll forwards and apply the rear again, it'l grip again but rock forward a little until it hits the forward stop.

No movement at all on mine.

EDIT: Who patched the tire - I see you're in Houston too?
 
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Showkey, One question. If an individual applies a sealant such as Ride On or Slime as a preventive measure then is unaware that it sealed a puncture is he/she guilty of something per the technical advisory?


I have no idea...........suspect individuals can do what they want, but many of these countries have yearly strict vehicle inspections ( MOT) that do not tolerate any modifications or technical deficiencies. That came up on the RV forum as well are " tire repair police" in these locations.......I believe MOT does not even allow tire size changes as an example.

I also do not know if these products are sold in Europe and if they are sold what is the indented use like "emergency repair" only.
I think even plug instructions in the US. have some sort of warning about permanent repairs?????

Like the instructions for stopngo last paragraph:

http://www.stopngo.com/template/pdf/1075.pdf
 
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