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JT chain toast under 10k miles

MZ5

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Just an experience report. My JT chain is stretched so bad it jumped off the sprocket while I was riding down the road. It has some sticky links, too, and there's a huge difference in tension between the tight spot and the rest of the chain. I'm over 9k, but haven't reached 10k miles yet. 'Twas a good experiment, but I shan't repeat it.
 
Just an experience report. My JT chain is stretched so bad it jumped off the sprocket while I was riding down the road. It has some sticky links, too, and there's a huge difference in tension between the tight spot and the rest of the chain. I'm over 9k, but haven't reached 10k miles yet. 'Twas a good experiment, but I shan't repeat it.

Excatly what model of JT chain? When did you have checked chain tension last time prior to this accident?
 
The NC7 would be close to perfect with a shaft drive. Too much labor with a chain drive.

Unless it was a BMW final drive....then you wish you had a chain. Winning the lottery and the NC getting a shaft have about the same probability.........but.........if you win the lottery you can have someone custom build a shaft for lets say $50k.
 
Well, if we are just dreaming. An Africa Twin 1200 DCT with shaft drive, cruise control, 1" lower seat, and is only 400 lbs!

As Honda says - "The Power of Dreams".
 
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Excatly what model of JT chain? When did you have checked chain tension last time prior to this accident?

I don't know whether the chain has a model name/number or not. It's the chain they offer through Amazon. They also offer a chain & sprockets package for the NCX on Amazon. Strat has posted links to those offerings before; I don't have them bookmarked, I'm afraid.

I last adjusted the chain about a month ago, but due to recent 'frigid' temps here (that means in the 30s :) ), and some personal matters, I've only taken the bike to work a few times since then. The trouble is that the chain is FAR too loose most everywhere, but the one tight spot is so much tighter that it puts strong tension on it even with the bike up on the center stand, if you tighten the chain for the loose areas

I'm not sure that sentence makes much sense, so the short version is that in order to keep the tight spot loose enough to operate properly, the rest of the chain is loose enough that it jumped off the sprocket.
 
I just got this set from sprocket center front and rear sprocket and D.I.D. Chain for $145 SL1070001R-16
 
I went 2 teeth down on the rear sprocket to get a little more top end

That's strange. My NC won't do redline in top gear. I run out of horses first. I would expect that a smaller rear sprocket would lower my top end. What was your before and after top speed?
 
The idea is going a little faster at lower RPM's I can go just a bit faster but my reason was getting the bike under 4k RPM while going 80
 
The idea is going a little faster at lower RPM's I can go just a bit faster but my reason was getting the bike under 4k RPM while going 80

To each his own, but I am not sure why you'd want to do that. Revs don't hurt the motor and at 80 mph with higher revs you would have more power to hold speed on inclines and such. My biggest concern with taller gearing is that the engine gets so bumpy below 3K RPM. On my next chain change I am upping the rear by two teeth to let the motor rev a little more freely. It just seems happier with a few hundred extra RPM.
 
I like the tall gearing idea. It seems every bike I have had is geared as such so you can use top gear any old time, but if you want something taller, there's nothing left. The NC is the best so far. You don't use top gear until above 39 mph. (The GL1800 is geared so low you can easily use top gear at 30 mph, and Honda has the nerve to call it "overdrive").

What I like to see is a top gear that's marginally too tall to use all the time, but it's out there and ideal for good mileage when conditions allow. Any time 6th gear isn't quite suitable, you still have five more below that to choose from.
 
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I'm with 670 on this if it's not a big enough difference I'll go down a couple more teeth but I have to go over a mountain pass twice a day most of the week and I'm close to down shifting with stock gearing, I'm sure now I will have to drop it into 5th for five minutes of a hour long commute
 
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You can edit a post and correct it. I do it all the time to correct speeling errors and bad gramer and to rephrase subject matter or to emphasize something I missed the first time so just make it more somthing-or-other.

Click on Edit Post on the bottom right of your post it will pull up the post that is open for corrections. Then click Save to make the changes permanante.
 
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Yeah I'm still learning the forum and Tapatalk lol thanks for the help

I did it for you above so you can see how it works. You can add or change comments, or just edit the mistakes.

I personally don't like or use Tapatalk, but I think the edit function should be there.
 
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