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Long çrank issue

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Greybear357

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I have a 2012 nc700x. I'm having a long crank issue intermittently at first that started out every so often now it doesn't more often than not. I will place the fuel pump as a recommendation from a Honda mechanic but it didn't help it at all. Does anybody here had the same problem?
 
The long crank issue has been discussed in several threads. Here are two, but there are others to be found if you search.

 
Next time you experience long crank…….does not fire in the first two attempts of 3-5 second crank…….open the throttle slightly and crank.
The idle air controller can get sticky and may not let enough air in at cranking. Opening the the throttle supplies the air to allow it to start.
The other check in those prior posts …….coolant temp sensor can fail or give bad data. Not common and can be tested by reading the sensor voltage. Do not replace on a guess.
 
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Is it still the original battery? If so, might be reaching the end of life.
When my battery went at the start of last season, it started as long cranks.
If the battery is capable of supplying energy for the "long cranks", it means that the battery is in relatively good condition.
Of course, starting the engine too often in a short time without recharging will even drain a new battery. These batteries have a relatively low capacity.
 
How long has the bike been sitting? The best running bike is one that is ridden daily.
Given that the battery is fully charged, the NC, having fuel injection, should start up the same whether it sat for 1 day or 3 months. If the fuel pump pressurizes the fuel rail quickly, as it should, she’ll start right up.
 
If the battery is capable of supplying energy for the "long cranks", it means that the battery is in relatively good condition.
Of course, starting the engine too often in a short time without recharging will even drain a new battery. These batteries have a relatively low capacity.
Not strictly true, it's possible (as was my case) that there is enough juice to turn the motor, but wouldn't catch. Not sure if it had to do with a slower than typical RPM, weak spark, low V confusing the computer, or something else entirely. Most times after a few extra turns ("long crank") it would manage to turn over, at least for a few weeks until the battery got too weak even for that.
 
Not strictly true, it's possible (as was my case) that there is enough juice to turn the motor, but wouldn't catch. ...
We are discussing here not what happens to you but to the OP's when "having a long crank issue intermittently at first that started out every so often now it doesn't more often than not."
The battery doesn't behave like my puppy dog: mostly nice and sometimes nasty.
This is not a problem with the battery, but that does not change the fact that it may need to be replaced soon.
 
We are discussing here not what happens to you but to the OP's when "having a long crank issue intermittently at first that started out every so often now it doesn't more often than not."
The battery doesn't behave like my puppy dog: mostly nice and sometimes nasty.
This is not a problem with the battery, but that does not change the fact that it may need to be replaced soon.
Started out with a few long cranks, progressively getting more common.
This describes exactly the symptoms I had when my battery was on the way out.
Replacing my battery fixed the "long crank issue intermittently at first that started out every so often now it doesn't more often than not" that I had.
Many factors affect the battery/starting performance, such as ambient temperature and how long the bike was sitting after it was running last. At first it was "mostly nice and sometimes nasty" then progressively got more nasty and less nice as the battery continued to age.

To recap, a bike as old as mine has the same symptoms mine had a little over a year ago. My problem was an old battery. This was confirmed with meter readings during start and the fact a replacement battery solved the issue completely.
 
Started out with a few long cranks, progressively getting more common.
This describes exactly the symptoms I had when my battery was on the way out.
Replacing my battery fixed the "long crank issue intermittently at first that started out every so often now it doesn't more often than not" that I had.
Many factors affect the battery/starting performance, such as ambient temperature and how long the bike was sitting after it was running last. At first it was "mostly nice and sometimes nasty" then progressively got more nasty and less nice as the battery continued to age.

To recap, a bike as old as mine has the same symptoms mine had a little over a year ago. My problem was an old battery. This was confirmed with meter readings during start and the fact a replacement battery solved the issue completely.
The battery does not behave in a chaotic manner and has no "moods". It is a simple energy storage device that is governed by the laws of physics and chemistry.
The energy needed to deliver fuel and to ignite is relatively low compared to the energy needed for the starter motor. So if the battery can crank the starter motor with sufficient speed (long cranks) it can surely supply the energy needed to ignite the fuel mixture. Of course, a discharged battery cannot do this and it is easily noticeable. By observation, you can distinguish "long cranks" from slowing dying engine revolutions or hear only a click of starter relay switch and nothing else. Of course, I do not forbid anyone to replace the battery with a new one. But from my knowledge and experience it is not necessary in this case.
 
When my battery was going it failed to start on the 3rd consecutive start. If you can start it three times in a row with no noticeable change it is probably not the battery. Have you done the maintenance? I'm thinking air filter, valve checks and even spark plugs. All things I would look into long before I would consider the fuel pump.

Of course I am not a Honda mechanic and this is the internet...the wild west of keyboard warriors;) Hope you find a simple and cost effective solution to your problem.
 
The battery does not behave in a chaotic manner and has no "moods". It is a simple energy storage device that is governed by the laws of physics and chemistry.
The energy needed to deliver fuel and to ignite is relatively low compared to the energy needed for the starter motor. So if the battery can crank the starter motor with sufficient speed (long cranks) it can surely supply the energy needed to ignite the fuel mixture. Of course, a discharged battery cannot do this and it is easily noticeable. By observation, you can distinguish "long cranks" from slowing dying engine revolutions or hear only a click of starter relay switch and nothing else. Of course, I do not forbid anyone to replace the battery with a new one. But from my knowledge and experience it is not necessary in this case.
I wouldn't describe it as chaotic, but subject to a significant list of variables. If it's cold outside, the battery doesn't work as well. If you only had a short ride last, the battery might not have fully charged. if the bike sat for longer, the battery is going to have lost more charge. Many factors affect the performance of the battery on the "next start" and could lead to an "intermittent" starting issue. It would appear chaotic if all the factors weren't considered, but it's all supported by the laws of physics and chemistry.
Keep in mind that while the power required to deliver and ignite fuel may be low, ECUs can be extremely sensitive to low voltages. The mark of an aging battery is an excessive voltage drop during crank, which has the potential to cause all sorts of ECU issues, even if sufficient charge exists to inject fuel and deliver a spark.

Ultimately, I was offering a potential item to check that didn't seem to be considered in the above troubleshooting. It's easy enough to slap a meter on the battery terminals and check for an excessive V drop on cranking, which could point to an aging battery, especially if the battery is about 9 years old. Note, I never said "it's definitely the battery, go get a new one" what I said was that an aging battery could be the source of the symptoms.

I never condone loading the parts shotgun as a repair method. For example, when my car was experiencing intermittent start issues, I acquired an oscilloscope and read the various sensor voltage outputs to determine that it was a camshaft position sensor that dropped out when the engine got above a certain temperature. Replacing the sensor solved the issue.
 
I have to agree. An older battery can cause such things.
And do not forget that a battery can quit working suddenly.
Have had it happen more than twice. Happened on a bike 4 years ago.
Showing no signs of trouble, I rode to the store, came out, almost didnt crank - then dead.
Battery was 3 years old, replaced, problem solved!
 
I have to agree. An older battery can cause such things.
And do not forget that a battery can quit working suddenly.
Have had it happen more than twice. Happened on a bike 4 years ago.
Showing no signs of trouble, I rode to the store, came out, almost didnt crank - then dead.
Battery was 3 years old, replaced, problem solved!
We are discussing a long crank symptom. You describe how you had no signs of trouble, then your battery died suddenly. How does that relate to the OP’s symptoms?
 
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