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Lowering NC750X

I'd written in another thread that I hadn't been on a bike in probably 15 years when I picked up my new 2018 NC750X manual.
I rode 10 minutes straight from the dealer to a huge hotel parking lot and practiced for probably two hours before I felt semi-comfortable again. Slow speed maneuvers, panic stops, shifting, countersteering, I needed to try it all in just getting used to the bike and riding again.

I was there about an hour when I stopped (forgetting to tripod) and my right toe was in gravel that I hadn't noticed, my foot slid out and in a millisecond the bike went over. So I'd owned it about an hour before I dropped it, but I am one of those who is OK with the first scratch cause it takes the pressure off.
Anyway, the most embarrassing part was that a woman saw me drop it and came over to help lift it. She was pretty hefty and really did help.
 
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I think we will always remember our first.
It's almost romantic. The motorcycle first is almost, that is.
The first-first is a romantic thing.
In case my wife reads this, she was my first.
 
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My wife has a Soupy’s Performance adjustable lowering link. We also lowered at the fork so the bike remains basically level as it came from the factory, just lowered. Advatantage with the Soupys adjustable is we actually adjusted it several times before we found the right spot for her comfort.

I bought a Soupy’s adjustable kickstand. That broke. It also punched holes on hot sunny days in asphalt parking lots. Fortunately the bike never fell.

strongly recommend the Soupy’s lowering link. Strongly advise against that kickstand. Ended up cutting an inch out of her stock kickstand and welding it back together.
I did the same modifications on my 2016. The links (turnbuckles) worked great, I returned the sidestand for fear it would break. Also cut and welded stock side stand.
 
We’re asking...
OK, I had to leave my bike on its side while I ran behind the gas station next to a bush and took care of the bladder issue, then I went back to pick up my bike.
After all of this, I finally filled my tank and rode off looking totally cool.
 
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OK, I had to leave my bike on its side while I ran behind the gas station next to a bush and took care of the bladder issue, then I went back to pick up my bike.
After all of this, I finally filled my tank and rode off looking totally cool.
Sounds like a close call!
 
So I have been brushing up on some low speed techniques. While studying some low speed stops I realized that I have been making a mistake. I have been using my front brake the final few feet of the stop and putting both feet down thus because both feet off the pegs and front brake only the front forks dip and can throw you off balance. So I have been instructed to use both brakes until final few feet then use back brake only to prevent the forks from dipping. This leaves the right foot on the brake and the left foot to reach the ground and make a tripod. Once stopped you can now use the front brake and put both feet down if you choose or just hold the tripod until you start off again. Got this from a MC rider instruction video. What do you all think about this???
 
Simple questions with a lot of details in the answer. When I took my new rider course they focused on font brake only. From their experience students are conditioned to use use the rear brake so they they try to get them to pratice using the front which in an emergency stop situation provides the vast majority of the braking.

As I took other courses the information expanded. For slow speed manouvers I was trained to primarily used the rear brake. The idea being you are keeping a constant rpm with your throttle hand and clutch. You control your speed with the rear brake which doesn't kill your speed or cause your front end to dive and create balance issues in technical patterns.

Currently when riding I tend to use both brakes. In an emergenty situation I want to be practiced in using the full braking power of the machine. I am a commuter so this is the environment where my techniques get applied. When stopped I am in the tripod position with bike in gear. I have an exit strategy set up if someone looks like they may rear end me. I have never had to ride between cars but I have had to move forward and prepared to move between them. Not a comforting feeling when you think you may be rear ended.

With Covid I am not sure what advanced rider training programs are available to you but I have enjoyed every one I have taken. A little off topic from lowering :)
 
I have short legs and deal with it. I dropped my ST1300 once doing a 180 on a 2 lane road...my fault bad clutch/throttle work. Once upon a time I was riding my DRZ 400 in Moab...beautiful place and I ran up a fairly steep hill and was watching the sights and stopped at the top to look around and put my left foot down and there was nothing there...I fell about 15' down the hill followed immediately by the DRZ. Fortunately I was wearing good off road stuff since I don't bounce as well as I once did.

I started riding in 1964 with the same short legs and they have shrunk if anything but it still works although weight is a much bigger factor nowdays...YMMV.
 
My wife has a Soupy’s Performance adjustable lowering link. We also lowered at the fork so the bike remains basically level as it came from the factory, just lowered. Advatantage with the Soupys adjustable is we actually adjusted it several times before we found the right spot for her comfort.

I bought a Soupy’s adjustable kickstand. That broke. It also punched holes on hot sunny days in asphalt parking lots. Fortunately the bike never fell.

strongly recommend the Soupy’s lowering link. Strongly advise against that kickstand. Ended up cutting an inch out of her stock kickstand and welding it back together.
Hey melonsdad. Just going back reading the comments on lowering my bike. I’ve rode another 7000 km not doing anything but I’m still thinking about doing what you did for your wife. Using the soups adjustable links, lowering front forks and cutting and welding the kickstand. Just wondering how much you ended up lowering her bike? Is she still happy with the adjustments? Thanks :)
 
Hey melonsdad. Just going back reading the comments on lowering my bike. I’ve rode another 7000 km not doing anything but I’m still thinking about doing what you did for your wife. Using the soups adjustable links, lowering front forks and cutting and welding the kickstand. Just wondering how much you ended up lowering her bike? Is she still happy with the adjustments? Thanks :)
It is a couple inches lower than stock, not really sure how much lower but it is very noticeably lower and she thinks it might actually be too low . . . but I'm too lazy to raise it up. Yes she is very happy with it. Even with it lowered down almost all the way there is enough suspension travel to ride 2 up with a passenger for modest distances (never done 2 up on it for anything other than "joy rides"). It is really well behaved and balanced, and easier to ride and straddle.
 
It is a couple inches lower than stock, not really sure how much lower but it is very noticeably lower and she thinks it might actually be too low . . . but I'm too lazy to raise it up. Yes she is very happy with it. Even with it lowered down almost all the way there is enough suspension travel to ride 2 up with a passenger for modest distances (never done 2 up on it for anything other than "joy rides"). It is really well behaved and balanced, and easier to ride and straddle.
Thanks for the response. Still trying to get over the price shock lol I am a little frugal:)
 
Wouldn't you be able to make these links yourself?
I did it almost 10 years ago right after receiving my NC700XD. My first modification.
I ordered a cut-to-size stainless steel flat bar from onlinemetals.com. Drilled 2 x 10mm holes.
After installing these links, I additionally lowered the front by about 19mm. Overall, the bike has been lowered by about 25mm. You can do more, but it changes the geometry of the motorcycle too much.
STAINLESS STEEL FLAT BAR T-304/304L
0.25" x 1.25" T-304 Stainless Annealed Rectangle
2 x 7.125"
I was able to find a few photos that I took then.


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I used the Soupys on my 12 , lowered the forks 15mm. My seat was redone in 14 by my friend who flattened it out and used 2in. of hard padding. with Racetec heavy springs and a Givi kickstand foot. my stock kickstand works fine and the approx 1in. lower ride height makes the bike handle much better.
 
Well ordered Lust 40mm lowering links today. Watched a video on how to size up how much you want to drop your bike. Using a plank under each foot until you feel comfortable. I think I nailed it perfectly. Now just hoping no issues with them shipping from overseas. $115 Canadian so less than half the price of soupys but not adjustable. I’m confident that these are good quality as they get great reviews. I have 15,000 km on my bike at stock height but I feel I am more comfortable with being able to two foot at stops.
 
Wouldn't you be able to make these links yourself?
I did it almost 10 years ago right after receiving my NC700XD. My first modification.
I ordered a cut-to-size stainless steel flat bar from onlinemetals.com. Drilled 2 x 10mm holes.
After installing these links, I additionally lowered the front by about 19mm. Overall, the bike has been lowered by about 25mm. You can do more, but it changes the geometry of the motorcycle too much.
STAINLESS STEEL FLAT BAR T-304/304L
0.25" x 1.25" T-304 Stainless Annealed Rectangle
2 x 7.125"
I was able to find a few photos that I took then.


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Wow nice work! I was considering having a friend of mine do that sort of thing but he is booked solid building race cars. Anyhow thanks for the post
 
Look what came today. Going to lower my 2014 40mm front and back. Looks pretty straight forward. Just wondering if it will affect chain tightness? Anything else I should be aware of? I do not have a centre stand and going to cut 40 mm out of the side stand and weld it back together. I think that’s all but any pointers are always appreciated:)2004DB4B-BE2D-4412-86D1-2170C607251D.jpeg
 
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