Question Metallic noises

[Wedders]

I went out on my bike today for the first time in a long time as I bought it at the beginning of COVID. I noticed at low revs it make a metallic rattling sound at the front of the engine. It sounds like a loose exhaust heat shield but it can’t be that as it hasn’t got one. Is this normal? as the bike runs well apart from this annoying sound. It’s a 2016 DCT by the way and I wear ear plugs.

 

[potter0o]

"sounds" normal to me, valve tapping

 

[Deleted member 1183]

I went out on my bike today for the first time in a long time as I bought it at the beginning of COVID. I noticed at low revs it make a metallic rattling sound at the front of the engine. It sounds like a loose exhaust heat shield but it can’t be that as it hasn’t got one. Is this normal? as the bike runs well apart from this annoying sound. It’s a 2016 DCT by the way and I wear ear plugs.

Perhaps some more detail ? Is it while riding ? Under acceleration ?

 

[Wedders]

Sorry for the lack of detail.
The appears to be at low revs whilst say coming out of a tight bend and the bike hasn’t changed down quickly enough, or in slow moving traffic.
BTW I’m new to the DCT and will probably be able to ride around it with some experience.
I have taken PotterO0 suggestion on board and will check the tappets. I have just ordered new gasket and seals.

 

[bigbird]

The appears to be at low revs whilst say coming out of a tight bend and the bike hasn’t changed down quickly enough, or in slow moving traffic.

Sounds like the engine might be lugging: too low of an rpm under load.
Try tapping the downshift paddle next time this happens.
If the noise does disappear, it is not a valve clearance issue. Excessive valve clearances would be heard as a tapping or clicking at all rpm, especially when the engine has not fully warmed up.
If the increase in rpm from the down shift causes the noise to disappear, I would suggest a good hard run of at least 15 minutes followed by an oil and filters change to clean any acidic residue and gunk from the lubrication system.
Also, I would do the DCT clutch initialization procedure.

 

[Wedders]

Sounds like the engine might be lugging: too low of an rpm under load.
Try tapping the downshift paddle next time this happens.
If the noise does disappear, it is not a valve clearance issue. Excessive valve clearances would be heard as a tapping or clicking at all rpm, especially when the engine has not fully warmed up.
If the increase in rpm from the down shift causes the noise to disappear, I would suggest a good hard run of at least 15 minutes followed by an oil and filters change to clean any acidic residue and gunk from the lubrication system.
Also, I would do the DCT clutch initialization procedure.

Thanks for the info. But during lockdown I have done oil and filters and DCT reset amongst other things. I expect your suggestion on manual downshift will work but I think that the valve clearances have never been checked so will do them anyway.
I am a persistent tinkerer so I fitted a Rapid Bike Easy which should cure any lean running issues.

 

[Deleted member 1183]

Tappets can be noisy. There is also an aspect of noise from the air box area under hard throttle use. With regard to early downshifting perhaps change to one of the S modes instead of D. I use S1 and manual together as the norm.

 

[Wedders]

Tappets can be noisy. There is also an aspect of noise from the air box area under hard throttle use. With regard to early downshifting perhaps change to one of the S modes instead of D. I use S1 and manual together as the norm.

I was in S2 at the time. I’ll do my tappets and if that doesn’t cure it I will have to learn to ride around it. I think I am a little gentle on the throttle as I’ve come from a Ducati and you have to be at times.

 

[Wedders]

Done my tappets now they weren’t that bad just a little out. Can’t put it together again as I’m waiting for a new gasket and seals, I thought that I’d change them just in case I hate doing a job twice.

 

[670cc]

Done my tappets now they weren’t that bad just a little out. Can’t put it together again as I’m waiting for a new gasket and seals, I thought that I’d change them just in case I hate doing a job twice.

You can do your valves however you want, but as for gasket and seals, I have done the valve adjustment four times now on my NC and I have never replaced any gaskets or seals. No oil leaks ever. It can't hurt to replace it, but the head cover gasket is totally reusable.

 

[Wedders]

You can do your valves however you want, but as for gasket and seals, I have done the valve adjustment four times now on my NC and I have never replaced any gaskets or seals. No oil leaks ever. It can't hurt to replace it, but the head cover gasket is totally reusable.

Yes I understand now that I’ve seen them. The gasket looks good but the seals don’t so glad I’m replacing them.

 

[bigbird]

What seals are you referring to?
The O-rings for the inspection covers?

 

[Wedders]

The seals are the ones on the bolts that hold on the valve cover. They are like a washer and rubber washer half and half. No. 4 on the diagram.

 

[bigbird]

The seals are the ones on the bolts that hold on the valve cover. They are like a washer and rubber washer half and half. No. 4 on the diagram.

Thanks. Now I know what you were referring to.

 

[davidc83]

check your chain for kinks...If the chain has kinks, those kinks can hit a tab inside the front sprocket cover, making a metal clicking noise which makes it sound like it is coming from the engine..

 

[TheIronWarrior]

check your chain for kinks...If the chain has kinks, those kinks can hit a tab inside the front sprocket cover, making a metal clicking noise which makes it sound like it is coming from the engine..

I second this. Before I changed out my chain it had a few tight links and would slap around at low RPM, especially under load, making all sorts of noises.

 

[Wedders]

I have come up with a cunning plan. I think I will change the front sprocket to a 16 tooth to aid the low down power a little. I have done this on previous bikes with success. Anybody got any reasons not to?

 

[hulkss]

I have come up with a cunning plan. I think I will change the front sprocket to a 15 tooth to aid the low down power a little. I have done this on previous bikes with success. Anybody got any reasons not to?

DCT computer won't like it (I've read here).

 

[Wedders]

Sorry just edited my previous post I thought the standard was 16 tooth but just looked it up as 17. So I would now go down to 16.

 

[670cc]

I have come up with a cunning plan. I think I will change the front sprocket to a 16 tooth to aid the low down power a little. I have done this on previous bikes with success. Anybody got any reasons not to?

Or just choose a different gear while you're riding. There are 6 to choose from.