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Michelin Launches New Road 6 Street Tires

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A street tire is subject to the most varied of riding conditions. Sure, they aren’t as grippy as slicks in the dry, but their everyday useability is what makes them the perfect choice for someone who isn’t frequenting a racetrack. Street tires come with predominantly smooth rubber with grooves in them to channel water away, in the event of rain or a particularly wet patch of tarmac. They’re also longer lasting than track-focused rubber. Michelin offers some of the best street tires out there and with its latest product, it’s taken things up a notch.

The new Road 6 sits at the top of the French manufacturer’s street tire lineup. The brand has taken its popular Road 5 tires and made them even better to produce this new option. It supposedly offers 15% more grip in wet conditions and a 10% longer tread life than the Road 5.

Cutaway shot of the Michelin Road 6 tires

Michelin has mentioned in its press release that it features a redesigned tread pattern that better disperses water away from the contact patch. RideApart mentions in its report that the Road 6 tires also offer improved cornering stability, translating to an overall more engaging ride.

The front tire now features Michelin’s 2CT+ Technology (already available on the rear), which is essentially better rigidity for the sidewalls, translating to sharper feedback to the handlebars while cornering. It should also result in improved better stability under heavy braking or hard acceleration.

The Road 6 will be available in standard form, as well as a GT version for larger motorcycles. The regular range comprises six front and eight rear sizes, while the GT tire range is available in one front and three rear sizes. Michelin has said that this extensive portfolio will be able to cater to nearly every motorcycle, from entry-level options like the KTM 390 Duke to tourers like the BMW K1600 GT/GTL.

The post Michelin Launches New Road 6 Street Tires appeared first on webBikeWorld.

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When the Road 10 eventually comes out (after 7, 8, and 9), people might then be saying how bad these Road 6s were.
 
Evolution of tread between the Road 5 and the Road 6 GT (Road 5 GT have the same tread than the regular Road 5)

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I just bought a rear Road 6 to replace my Shinko 009 Raven. I was going to get the Road 5 but the 6 was only $15 more. First thing I noticed when I got the tire is that the tread doesn't widen as it gets closer to the case like the Road 5's appear to/Michelin claims (never seen one in person so don't know if this is accurate). My understanding with how they got them to maintain their grip on wet roads was that as the tire wore down and the sips got shallower, they would get wider to accommodate the same amount of water.

Once I get it mounted and am able to put some miles on it I plan on doing a comparison between the Road 6 and the Shinko to help those who are trying to decide if the extra cost is really necessary or not.
 
I just bought a rear Road 6 to replace my Shinko 009 Raven. I was going to get the Road 5 but the 6 was only $15 more. First thing I noticed when I got the tire is that the tread doesn't widen as it gets closer to the case like the Road 5's appear to/Michelin claims (never seen one in person so don't know if this is accurate). My understanding with how they got them to maintain their grip on wet roads was that as the tire wore down and the sips got shallower, they would get wider to accommodate the same amount of water.

Once I get it mounted and am able to put some miles on it I plan on doing a comparison between the Road 6 and the Shinko to help those who are trying to decide if the extra cost is really necessary or not.
Given that a Road 5 is double the cost of a Raven 009, and the Road 6 cost even more, your comparison will be welcome information. I would certainly hope the Road 6 is the better tire, but is it’s 2x cost justifiable in performance and longevity?
 
Given that a Road 5 is double the cost of a Raven 009, and the Road 6 cost even more, your comparison will be welcome information. I would certainly hope the Road 6 is the better tire, but the question is it’s 2x cost justifiable in performance and longevity?
That is really the question I am going to try to answer. It is also an answer that will require a caveat on the types of roads I ride. As far as longevity goes though, I got 12,000 miles out of my Raven's so I think that is going to be hard to beat for the price difference.
 
Given that a Road 5 is double the cost of a Raven 009, and the Road 6 cost even more, your comparison will be welcome information. I would certainly hope the Road 6 is the better tire, but is it’s 2x cost justifiable in performance and longevity?
The cost of mounting tires on a motorcycle can be a big part of tire cost. So someone mounting there own the cost of the tires is the main issue. But if you are paying $100 or more to mount and balance, a 50% increase in mileage is a big deal.
 
The cost of mounting tires on a motorcycle can be a big part of tire cost. So someone mounting there own the cost of the tires is the main issue. But if you are paying $100 or more to mount and balance, a 50% increase in mileage is a big deal.
I agree.

I mount my own tires and have done so for the last 10-12 years. The monetary cost of mounting my own tires is mostly zero, and the mounting time is probably even less than what it would take to go to a shop, wait, then return home.

Where good longevity pays off is when I do long trips. I may have a mid life tire that has 5000 miles left in it, but when going on a 6000 mile trip, that tire needs to be swapped out way early. The longer tires last, in general, the less the likelihood of having to change tires before their end of life.
 
I just bought a rear Road 6 to replace my Shinko 009 Raven. I was going to get the Road 5 but the 6 was only $15 more. First thing I noticed when I got the tire is that the tread doesn't widen as it gets closer to the case like the Road 5's appear to/Michelin claims (never seen one in person so don't know if this is accurate). My understanding with how they got them to maintain their grip on wet roads was that as the tire wore down and the sips got shallower, they would get wider to accommodate the same amount of water.

Once I get it mounted and am able to put some miles on it I plan on doing a comparison between the Road 6 and the Shinko to help those who are trying to decide if the extra cost is really necessary or not.

Any thing to report? I will be due for another set of tires in the near future.
 
I agree.

I mount my own tires and have done so for the last 10-12 years. The monetary cost of mounting my own tires is mostly zero, and the mounting time is probably even less than what it would take to go to a shop, wait, then return home.

Where good longevity pays off is when I do long trips. I may have a mid life tire that has 5000 miles left in it, but when going on a 6000 mile trip, that tire needs to be swapped out way early. The longer tires last, in general, the less the likelihood of having to change tires before their end of life.
What kind of equipment do you use to mount your tires? I’m looking at getting into this but would prefer not to damage the rims.
 
What kind of equipment do you use to mount your tires? I’m looking at getting into this but would prefer not to damage the rims.
I went a crazy route with a Harbor Freight tire changer and the Harbor Freight motorcycle adapter. For the motorcycle adapter I added Mojoblocks which are nylon blocks made for the HF unit, to clamp the rim with zero damage. I use a Mojolever mount/demount bar, which again has nylon surfaces that contact the wheel. I also use "the yellow thing", the bead clamp, and the tire mount lubricant from No-Mar. I use a Harbor Freight bead breaker. I also have a bead blaster for seating beads on trailer tires shipped flat from overseas. With this varied mess of tire tools I change all my tires now, including car, minivan, trailer tires (up to 8PR so far). I have sucessfully changed every tire I tried with no damage to any rims. Some are a real challenge, for sure, but I get it done. I balance motorcycle wheels on a Harbor Freight balance stand but I have no good way to balance car wheels (yet) so I pay to have that done.

If you just want a plug and play set for motorcycle wheels only you could go with the No-Mar system or their cheaper version which I think is called Cycle Hill. If I was doing it over today I’d love to have the Cycle Hill but then I might not be able to do big trailer tires. One forum member here who tried both mount/demount bars said the Mojolever was better than No-Mar's mount bar.

If that sounds confusing, we could go into better detail in a separate thread. There are probably some old discussions here on the forum on this topic.
 
Any thing to report? I will be due for another set of tires in the near future.
I can't tell much difference. I have about 3k miles on them so far and they are starting to show signs of squaring off. Still plenty of tread though. I am pretty confident they won't last any longer than my ravens did.
 
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