Ricknc
Site Supporter
One of the things that attracted me to the DCT is the possibility of moving the foot brake to the handlebar. I have size 13 feet and in my touring boots the foot brake ergonomics don’t work well for me. I also have some circulatory issues with my feet that includes bouts of numbness in the toes.
I researched here a month or so ago and contacted a forum member who had converted his. Using his advice coupled with my substantial experience with automotive hydraulics. I put together my plan.
The primary consideration was that any mods I made had to 100% undoable. If and when I ever sell the bike it will have to leave with the OEM system and wiring intact.
Most brake master conversions I have seen involved piggy backing the handlebar master cylinder to the reservoir of the foot master cylinder. The forum member who advised me plumbed to the ABS modulator with his version. I went a different way and plumbed the handle bar master cylinder to the junction of the foot brake hose and the hardline to the ABS modulator. The advantage of this was not having to remove the frunk to access the ABS modulator. I just had to remove the right side panel. Because of the location of the brake hose to Hardline junction I had to make a wrench to hook around a side panel mounting tab to hold the new hose fitting while tightening.
I used a Honda fsc600 scooter rear master (43510-msf-305). I had intended to order a new one but they have been on back order for the past 6 weeks. I found a $30 used one on Ebay that I rebuilt.The SS braided 3mm hydraulic hose and AN fittings came from Pegasus Racing.
The 5th photo shows routing of the rear brake line. It follows the parking brake cable past the swing arm pivot and then looping back to meet the hard line. ( marked with red dashes) Instead of tapping into the brake light wiring of the front master cylinder I ran wiring back to the original plug(SC-1103) for the foot brake. (Marked with yellow dashes). Brake hose and wiring is covered with 1/4” wire wrap to prevent abrasion.
I bought a handlebar bridge/brace (22mm )through Amazon to use as a mount for the parking brake
I have about 150 miles on the bike now and it is working well for me. Much easier to modulate the rear brake. The effort is not as high as I expected, though it takes a powerful squeeze to set off the ABS.
*January 2023 update; For those in Europe and elsewhere the NC750 Integra scooter is sold, the Integra rear master cylinder is a perfect match functionally and cosmetically for this mod. Honda part # 43510MGSD71 lever assembly # 53180-MJL-D71
I researched here a month or so ago and contacted a forum member who had converted his. Using his advice coupled with my substantial experience with automotive hydraulics. I put together my plan.
The primary consideration was that any mods I made had to 100% undoable. If and when I ever sell the bike it will have to leave with the OEM system and wiring intact.
Most brake master conversions I have seen involved piggy backing the handlebar master cylinder to the reservoir of the foot master cylinder. The forum member who advised me plumbed to the ABS modulator with his version. I went a different way and plumbed the handle bar master cylinder to the junction of the foot brake hose and the hardline to the ABS modulator. The advantage of this was not having to remove the frunk to access the ABS modulator. I just had to remove the right side panel. Because of the location of the brake hose to Hardline junction I had to make a wrench to hook around a side panel mounting tab to hold the new hose fitting while tightening.
I used a Honda fsc600 scooter rear master (43510-msf-305). I had intended to order a new one but they have been on back order for the past 6 weeks. I found a $30 used one on Ebay that I rebuilt.The SS braided 3mm hydraulic hose and AN fittings came from Pegasus Racing.
The 5th photo shows routing of the rear brake line. It follows the parking brake cable past the swing arm pivot and then looping back to meet the hard line. ( marked with red dashes) Instead of tapping into the brake light wiring of the front master cylinder I ran wiring back to the original plug(SC-1103) for the foot brake. (Marked with yellow dashes). Brake hose and wiring is covered with 1/4” wire wrap to prevent abrasion.
I bought a handlebar bridge/brace (22mm )through Amazon to use as a mount for the parking brake
I have about 150 miles on the bike now and it is working well for me. Much easier to modulate the rear brake. The effort is not as high as I expected, though it takes a powerful squeeze to set off the ABS.
*January 2023 update; For those in Europe and elsewhere the NC750 Integra scooter is sold, the Integra rear master cylinder is a perfect match functionally and cosmetically for this mod. Honda part # 43510MGSD71 lever assembly # 53180-MJL-D71
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