NC ever left you stranded?

[Deleted member 1183]

With regard to wheel bearing failure, do they give some indication they are in need of service? Or do they just fail suddenly and spontaneously?

My experience is that they go gradually at first and one can notice play in the bearing by rocking the wheel, holding it on top and bottom when off the ground. .You may notice a deterioration in handling but by then things have well advanced. I have had bearings fail on my former Silverwing and NC700X. On both I noticed play when changing tyres.

 

[670cc]

With regard to wheel bearing failure, do they give some indication they are in need of service? Or do they just fail suddenly and spontaneously?

While riding, the bike started to feel a little “wobbly”. At that point, with the bike on center stand, grabbing the rear wheel, it had play side to side. I still had to ride about 2000 miles home but then once home. the bearing was toast. By toast I mean it was just a heap of scrap metal. Had I realized how bad it was I would have considered it unsafe to ride, but it was my first bearing failure in almost 300,000 miles of motorcycle riding. I just wasn’t expecting it.

There are many examples of rear bearing failures on the NCX on this forum. The right rear is the one that goes. It seems to be a water intrusion problem.

Edited to add photo of my failed bearing.

 

[Doc True]

I now carry a set of bearings in the frunk for long trips. A full set doesn't cost much and doesn't take up much space

 

[jetsen]

I'm not sure this counts, other than my 2015 NC700 did leave me on the shoulder of the Interstate.
I was sure the cause was going to be somewhere in the DCT because earlier that day I had ridden a dirt road and had a rock give the undercarriage a hard knock that left a small scrape and dent on the exhaust pipe. I inspected it several times before I got back to the interstate; no leaks, no unusual sounds... until I was up to freeway speeds and suddenly lost power. I couldn't restart the engine because it wouldn't shift back to neutral. Two weeks later the dealer told me it was a just a grounding issue.
I was expecting to pay several hundred dollars for some sort of powertrain repair. Instead, and I consider myself lucky, I received an expensive battery recharge and bike wash (and peace of mind that a qualified tech had looked into it), as well as a lesson in battery/electrical maintenance.

 

[dduelin]

With regard to wheel bearing failure, do they give some indication they are in need of service? Or do they just fail suddenly and spontaneously?

I've never had one go suddenly bad on a motorcycle or any vehicle for that matter. On a car they start making a grumbling or roaring type of noise that varies with speed. I check them on my bikes when I remove wheels for other service. You can insert a finger tip in the axle hole and hold it lightly against the bearing race and rotate the bearing lightly back and forth. You'll feel a roughness or grittiness when the bearing needs replacing.

 

[kebrider]

I just had the rear wheel, brake-side bearing fail at 22K miles on my 19 NC750X. I caught it early, while oiling the chain. I lube chains after every ride with a light coat of gear oil and I always check all our bike's rear wheel bearings by checking side play. After several decades of riding and post-ride lube/inspections, this was the first wheel bearing failure I've ever had. I just returned from a 1,500 mile trip a few weeks ago and there was no play after my last ride, so I caught it very early. I flipped up the bearing seal and found a single ball and cage section that was going south. The grease was still clear with only minor discoloration at the failure site.

 

[the Ferret]

Not yet, but it's only been 13 months and 15,969 miles lol

Not yet and it's now been 25 months and 31,187 miles

although after reading this next tire change I'll have the tech check the wheel bearings for sure.

 

[670cc]

Not yet and it's now been 25 months and 31,187 miles

although after reading this next tire change I'll have the tech check the wheel bearings for sure.

Easy thing to do regularly, as kebrider mentioned, is when the NC is on the centerstand (if yours has one) is to just grab the rear wheel and check for side to side play.

 

[bumblepee]

Battery issues:
My 2021 NC750x left me 3-4 times already (in less than two years of life). It has always been the battery. I don't ride it very often, and in winter I put the battery tender on, but this has not helped.

One time I had just charged with the tender, I hop on the bike, it started and I went on. I stop after 10 minutes somewhere and it didn't start anymore. I had to ask help from someone at home to bring a trolling Lithium battery.

Two weeks ago I hopped on the bike in the morning and it did not start. I charged with the tender. Then hopped on the bike a week later and it started. Luckily it started also on the way back. This morning did not start again. Can't play games anymore with the batter (and can't find a proper jumpstarter that does not fry the electronics) so I am buying a new battery.
The folks at Honda said that the two year old original Yuasa batter is not in warranty. The folks at Autozone said 2 years is about the life of these batteries. I read here people have used the same batteries for many years. I myself had never changed batteries on scooters and motorcycles I have owned.

Looking for a new battery: One of the Honda dealers had priced the Yuasa YTZ12S at $210, I almost cracked a laugh when they told me the price. I read this forum and other online posts and just ordered the Mighty Max YTZ14S on Amazon for $40. It is a small gamble with minimal loss, rather than risking $140-$210 on the original Yuasa crap.

 

[bumblepee]

One more addition. Sometimes I turn on the bike and press D to get in gear, but nothing happens. I try everything but it does not get in gear. I have to turn if off and on again and then the system will get it in gear when I press D. You may imagine this is quite risky when you have a half dead battery. And this is what happened this morning, too. It started once, I had to turn it off because it wasn't engaging the gear, and then the battery gave up completely.

 

[mzflorida]

Yes. My 2016 NC700XD stalled while riding. Started back up but was limping. Died again, started again and limped home. Someone here told me it was likely a bad battery and they were right. Changed the battery and the issue never returned again.

 

[670cc]

Battery issues:
My 2021 NC750x left me 3-4 times already (in less than two years of life). It has always been the battery. I don't ride it very often, and in winter I put the battery tender on, but this has not helped.

One time I had just charged with the tender, I hop on the bike, it started and I went on. I stop after 10 minutes somewhere and it didn't start anymore. I had to ask help from someone at home to bring a trolling Lithium battery.

Two weeks ago I hopped on the bike in the morning and it did not start. I charged with the tender. Then hopped on the bike a week later and it started. Luckily it started also on the way back. This morning did not start again. Can't play games anymore with the batter (and can't find a proper jumpstarter that does not fry the electronics) so I am buying a new battery.
The folks at Honda said that the two year old original Yuasa batter is not in warranty. The folks at Autozone said 2 years is about the life of these batteries. I read here people have used the same batteries for many years. I myself had never changed batteries on scooters and motorcycles I have owned.

Looking for a new battery: One of the Honda dealers had priced the Yuasa YTZ12S at $210, I almost cracked a laugh when they told me the price. I read this forum and other online posts and just ordered the Mighty Max YTZ14S on Amazon for $40. It is a small gamble with minimal loss, rather than risking $140-$210 on the original Yuasa crap.

Without having a voltmeter and taking some readings of your battery, it‘s state of charge, and charger‘s performance, you’re just guessing. I would think your ”tender” is suspect. I would also want to test for parasitic loads, wiring and cable connection integrity, voltage with engine running, etc.

I haven’t heard that modern jumper packs were frying electronics. With a risk of being stranded like you are, I’d certainly be carrying one at least until your problems are sorted. I have a jumper pack in my NC at all times, however I’ve never used it the 11.5 years I’ve had the NC.

 

[the Ferret]

Not yet and it's now been 30 months and I will turn over 36,000 miles this week.

Not being able to jump start a DCT bike is certainly a concern. I am considering a Noco jumper. I have not heard of them frying electrics but I've heard you can not jump them thru a standard battery tender wire without blowing the fuse. I use my battery tender jr wire for not only charging the bike's battery but for running my electric jacket liner, and for charging my phone upon occasion.

 

[bumblepee]

Without having a voltmeter and taking some readings of your battery, it‘s state of charge, and charger‘s performance, you’re just guessing. I would think your ”tender” is suspect. I would also want to test for parasitic loads, wiring and cable connection integrity, voltage with engine running, etc.

I haven’t heard that modern jumper packs were frying electronics. With a risk of being stranded like you are, I’d certainly be carrying one at least until your problems are sorted. I have a jumper pack in my NC at all times, however I’ve never used it the 11.5 years I’ve had the NC.

I tried that too. The multimeter showed correctly 12 volt, or 11.9. Also, today I brought the dead battery to Advanced Auto Parts, they checked the charge and voltage seemed to be ok, but when they tried to put a load on the batter, that's when it was all bad, no cranking power. So, the battery must be bad. The tender I use is Deliran 800 mA.

About jump starting, I cannot find any good advice on google or this forum. I called two different Honda dealers and they both said to avoid jump starting and just change the battery. They said the same thing as the manual, you shouldn't connect to a car battery because it's too many amps. I asked what's the worse that can happen and they said fry the circuit board. I asked how much it cost to replace, and they say the board is $700-$800.

I am just spending $40 on a new battery, will see how that goes until summer time. I guess I should keep it connected to the tender during the summer months?

Anybody else has experienced the not-going-to-gear problem with the DCT? I can't figure out why, but about 1 in 20 starts it doesn't get the gear until I switch it off and turn it on again.

 

[dduelin]

Batteries don't up and die or go "bad". They are killed by neglect. If the battery tender in question is the usual 750 or 800 milliamp model it is not a charger and not meant to be. It's meant to maintain a healthy battery. A bike not ridden often and not charged often most likely has a chronically discharged battery which tends to lead a short life. A tender gives it 8 hours of minute 800 Ah float charge then times out. Never going to charge a nearly dead battery like that. Chronically undercharged or discharged batteries enter a vicious cycle. The discharged plates form a coating of sulfates which reduces storage capacity. The charger "charges" a sulfated battery up quickly but it's like we have turned a gallon bucket into a pint cup. A pint fills to the top quickly but there's just a fraction of the gallon capacity it used to be.

A NC700/750 charging system has about 420 watts of electrical power at 5000 rpm. Ridden for 10 minutes at 2500-3500 rpm probably took more amps out of the weak battery than the charge system put back in. So riding the bike infrequently for short distances does not charge the battery. Quit playing around and get a new battery and charge it according to the manufacturer's specification prior to installing it in the bike. Keep it charged or buy a battery every year or maybe two years. A MC charger should be 1.25 to 2 amps. A 800 Ah maintainer will keep a healthy charged battery charged but not charge it when it is discharged. Yes, leave it on the tender if the bike is going sit for weeks or more.

Malarky to the advice about not jumping with a car or truck battery. They say don't do that because people do stuff like starting or leaving the donor vehicle running when connecting cables to the dead vehicle, be it a motorcycle or a car/truck. Yes, the more powerful charging system of the RUNNING donor vehicle and the voltage spikes from connecting and disconnecting cables might do harm to the dead vehicle but they are doing it wrong. Leave the donor engine off and just let the juice of the 12V battery of the donor vehicle start the dead vehicle. When the dead vehicle is running then disconnect the cables starting with the positive cable.

 

[670cc]

I tried that too. The multimeter showed correctly 12 volt, or 11.9. Also, today I brought the dead battery to Advanced Auto Parts, they checked the charge and voltage seemed to be ok, but when they tried to put a load on the batter, that's when it was all bad, no cranking power. So, the battery must be bad. The tender I use is Deliran 800 mA.

About jump starting, I cannot find any good advice on google or this forum. I called two different Honda dealers and they both said to avoid jump starting and just change the battery. They said the same thing as the manual, you shouldn't connect to a car battery because it's too many amps. I asked what's the worse that can happen and they said fry the circuit board. I asked how much it cost to replace, and they say the board is $700-$800.

I am just spending $40 on a new battery, will see how that goes until summer time. I guess I should keep it connected to the tender during the summer months?

Anybody else has experienced the not-going-to-gear problem with the DCT? I can't figure out why, but about 1 in 20 starts it doesn't get the gear until I switch it off and turn it on again.

Yes, get a new battery. if the multimeter showed 11.9 or 12 volts, that battery is dead as dead. Any resting voltage that low is low on charge or has little capacity.

People saying a car battery has too many amps don't understand how it works. For example, you can plug a little LED nightlight into a 20 amp home outlet, but nothing bad happens. The potential for high current is there, but the night light just draws a few milliamps. Likewise even if the donor car battery can deliver high current, if the voltage is right (12 volts), the current drawn will be limited by the motorcycle battery, starter motor, and resistance in the jumper cable. Still, if you are not comfortable jump starting, don't do it. At any rate, if you get your battery problem solved, you won't need a jumper.

I charge most of my batteries with an 800 mA Optimate charger, including keeping car batteries topped up during slow usage times. I have much bigger chargers, but I've never needed them on a motorcycle battery. I connect mine to a machine until it shows charged, then move it to the next machine. Repeat every month or so of non use. Frankly, I am not impressed with the Deltran Battery Tender Jr item. I think there are better choices.

You need to verify if your tender even works. That is possibly what killed your old battery, or you didn't use it properly. Use a voltmeter and check battery voltage when the tender is in the float mode, battery fully charged. I would think it should read 13 volts or so. As to when to use the tender, it is more needed in the summer than winter. Battery self discharge rates are higher in warm weather. If you store the motorcycle in a cold place in winter, the battery discharge should be minimal then.

I'm one of those guys that gets 8 years out of a motorcycle battery. I don't baby them, nor does it take much effort to make them last a long time. Keep 'em charged, and when possible, keep 'em cold.

 

[bumblepee]

Well, I didn't know the tender does not charge much. I even thought the new battery I ordered from Amazon comes charged.

Can you suggest a charger for the NC battery?

This is the battery I ordered:

Amazon.com

 

[670cc]

Well, I didn't know the tender does not charge much. I even thought the new battery I ordered from Amazon comes charged.

Can you suggest a charger for the NC battery?

This is the battery I ordered:

Amazon.com

While you didn't buy a Yuasa battery, for reference Yuasa recommends a standard charge rate of one tenth the battery amp-hour capacity. So for the battery you bought, that would equate to about 1.1 amps. Yuasa does allow for a quick charge rate of 5 times that. I looked and did not find a manual for Mighty Max powersports batteries. In my opinion an 800 mA charger is just fine, but it needs to be a good one. I wouldn't recommend commonly using more than 2 amps on that size battery.

 

[potter0o]

I have used a simple Schumacher portable jumper when my battery was bad. I knew the battery was going due to the age. I just wanted to get all of the functional use out of it. I estimate that I used the jumper 3 times with no ill effects to the electronics. I know this is not a large sample size but it is actual experience with a basic jumper

 

[MZ5]

Can you suggest a charger for the NC battery?

These days I like Optimate or Schumacher 'smart' chargers. They (or at least some of them) can handle flooded-cell lead acid, AGM (maintenance-free) lead-acid, gel cells (which essentially don't exist), and LiFePO.

I switched to an Optimate "maintenance charger" (aka battery tender), too. I used to use a Battery Tender Jr. as a maintainer. It did absolutely nothing to extend battery life here in the lower desert of Arizona, as compared to just commuting on the bike most of the year. It is not clear to me whether it is better than just leaving the bikes alone or not. The BMW has parasitic losses from various computer 'stuff,' so I keep it on the maintainer. The NCX's current battery (not a Yuasa) has lasted perhaps longer than any previous one. It seems to have fared better by just sitting, with an occasional week on the maintainer, than by daily longer-distance riding. Go figure!