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NC700x DCT Neutral/gear selection problem

Sorry for not getting back to this thread sooner.
I checked the battery charged it none the less, but that didn't fix it.
Turned out to be a snapped shifter pin in the gearbox. Had this fixed by Chiswick Honda in London, the part only cost about £10, but with the labour it came to about £300.
Honda said that this isn't a normal problem, but the shifter pin is engaged every time you change gear and exit/enter neutral.
Since I commute through London traffic every day i can't even begin to imagine how many gear changes i have made over the last 25 000 miles.

Hope this helps if any of you are experiencing similar problems!

- Stale
 
That is the second reference I've seen to a metal pin that snaps off in the shift mechanism.

Thanks for letting us know the outcome.
 
thanks for that Stale
I've been having the same problem and it's driving me crazy
NC700Integra. 32000 km. Mine also had the solonoid starter switch recall.
But despite all these dramas I do love the concept of the bike and want the damn thing to work!
I'll take it to the dealer, armed with your info. That'll save me hours of them stuffing around trying to find the problem
Cheers mate
 
Yep, snapped gear shifter pin

StaleSK et al - just getting back to you all to confirm that yes mine was the same problem. Snapped gear shifter pin. Took them forever to find it at Peter Stephens Honda, Dandenong, despite my telling them the problem. They don't like getting tips from bike forum info. Result - $1400 bill of which the shifter pin itself was a couple of dollars.
Two things I'm going to do to try and avoid a repeat: 1. Put the bike into Neutral before turning off the engine (as it advises in the owner's manual) and 2 not changing down to 1st gear until the bike is stationary. No idea whether these things are relevant but maybe they put strain on the shifter pin. Cheers and hope this helpls
 
Going back to your original comment, why did you feel it necessary to shift into N at a stoplight? At that point, being in 1st gear is not a drag on the engine because the clutch for 1st gear is disengaged.

The only time, I shift to N is when I'm parking the bike although it isn't entirely necessary either - just one less thing for the battery to do when restarting the engine. :eek:
 
Going back to your original comment, why did you feel it necessary to shift into N at a stoplight? At that point, being in 1st gear is not a drag on the engine because the clutch for 1st gear is disengaged.

The only time, I shift to N is when I'm parking the bike although it isn't entirely necessary either - just one less thing for the battery to do when restarting the engine. :eek:

I'm hoping to see input from a UK member on this, but I suspect the OP may still be practicing the old habit or requirement that gearboxes be put in neutral at stop lights. I don't know much about this, but I see bits and pieces that indicate that older laws and custom made it illegal or impolite to sit at a stoplight with the transmission in gear in the U.K.

I have a manual transmission, and the only time I select neutral is when the engine is off and I'm pushing the bike around or doing maintenance.
 
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When I was in Japan in the 80s, friends would turn OFF their headlights when waiting at a stop light so I asked why? They told me it was to save the battery but I explained that modern cars had 50-60 amp alternators so such a practice wasn't necessary...they ignored me and kept turning off their headlights at stop lights.

ps. It may also be rooted in Japanese politeness in not wanting to create glare at a busy intersection. :)
 
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When I was in Japan in the 80s, friends would turn OFF their headlights when waiting at a stop light so I asked why? They told me it was to save the battery but I explained that modern cars had 50-60 amp alternators so such a practice wasn't necessary...they ignored me and kept turning off their headlights at stop lights.

ps. It may also be rooted in Japanese politeness in not wanted to create glare at a busy intersection. :)

Your P.S. is correct. Lived there for 3 years in the early 80's and practiced this curtesy.
 
Thank You!

Here is the DCT initialization procedure as originally posted by "smiller" back on July 16, 2016

The procedure is as follows:

1. Fully warm the engine to normal operating temperature.

2. Make sure that the stop/run switch is in the 'run' position and then turn on the ignition switch while holding down the 'D' shift switch on the right handlebar. Hold down the 'D' switch until the MIL (engine icon) goes off. You should see the outline of the the gear selector box on the LCD display but it should be empty (no D or S, no gear shown).

3. Operate the shift selector switch as follows (one push for each): D-D-N-D-N . After this is done 'D' and 'S' should show in the gear indicator box, along with a '-' sign in the center flashing at approx. 2 second intervals. (If you see an 'L' in the display the engine is not warm enough, if so then shut off the ignition, start the bike and bring it up to normal operating temperature, shut it off, and start again at Step 2.)

4. Start the engine and let it idle. Do not touch the throttle. The calibration is complete when the D and S indicators disappear. Shut off the engine and the calibration process is complete. (If the '-' starts blinking rapidly at 1/2 second intervals then the calibration process failed, shut of the ignition and repeat from Step 2.)


I wouldn't advise messing with the calibration just for the hell of it, but if you are experiencing a minor running problem such as the one I described above it may help.


Well I too started having issues with my DCT on my NC700D with 40,000 kms on her.

When cold, it would not change out of first gear and nothing you could do to get to do anything... the only option i had was to turn bike off and start again... Would only do this when cold. once warmed up... never a issue.

So i ran the this DCT initialization procedure.... and good news.... issue gone and seems to change gear much smoother now also.

Thanks for the info.

Regs Chris
 
I'm hoping to see input from a UK member on this, but I suspect the OP may still be practicing the old habit or requirement that gearboxes be put in neutral at stop lights. I don't know much about this, but I see bits and pieces that indicate that older laws and custom made it illegal or impolite to sit at a stoplight with the transmission in gear in the U.K.

I have a manual transmission, and the only time I select neutral is when the engine is off and I'm pushing the bike around or doing maintenance.

In a car with a manual transmission you would fail your driving test if you did not put the car in neutral and engage the hand brake at ALL stops (traffic lights & stop signs). That was the case 25-30 years ago when I learning to drive in the UK and took the test. Once you passed the test it was one of the first things you dropped, along with the "don't cross your hands" when turning the steering wheel!! You might still use the hand brake if you were stopped on a slope, but after having a parent that was hit from the rear a couple of different times while stopped I was told you would fare better if the car was in neutral and you took your foot off the brake and had no hand brake on. When I moved State-side I found it a little odd that the hand brake was known as the emergency brake because it was used so frequently in the UK, it wasn't for emergencies!! I was not allowed to ride motorbikes due to my dad's multiple accidents on his, so I don't know what they taught for that.

As for my DCT, I put it in N before I turn it off and whenever I'm pushing the bike backward into a parking spot.
 
Here is the DCT initialization procedure as originally posted by "smiller" back on July 16, 2016

The procedure is as follows:

1. Fully warm the engine to normal operating temperature.

2. Make sure that the stop/run switch is in the 'run' position and then turn on the ignition switch while holding down the 'D' shift switch on the right handlebar. Hold down the 'D' switch until the MIL (engine icon) goes off. You should see the outline of the the gear selector box on the LCD display but it should be empty (no D or S, no gear shown).

3. Operate the shift selector switch as follows (one push for each): D-D-N-D-N . After this is done 'D' and 'S' should show in the gear indicator box, along with a '-' sign in the center flashing at approx. 2 second intervals. (If you see an 'L' in the display the engine is not warm enough, if so then shut off the ignition, start the bike and bring it up to normal operating temperature, shut it off, and start again at Step 2.)

4. Start the engine and let it idle. Do not touch the throttle. The calibration is complete when the D and S indicators disappear. Shut off the engine and the calibration process is complete. (If the '-' starts blinking rapidly at 1/2 second intervals then the calibration process failed, shut of the ignition and repeat from Step 2.)


I wouldn't advise messing with the calibration just for the hell of it, but if you are experiencing a minor running problem such as the one I described above it may help.

-------------
Really this is an useful information for DCT owner ..
Thank you so much for your insights sharing
 
A mechanic told me the solenoid issue is common to all Hondas with dct, including ATVs.
 
Another DCT failure here at The CattHouse. Opening a new thread. The reinitialization process won't work form me as can't get Neutral to start and warm the bike. See my new thread for details.
 
Where is the "shifter pin" in the tranny? I'm not above attempting a fix if that's the problem. Haven't found such while perusing the big book.
 
So 2 years 11 months and 30,000 miles later it's happening all over again, exact same symptoms, dealer can't see any error codes being recorded.
 
So 2 years 11 months and 30,000 miles later it's happening all over again, exact same symptoms, dealer can't see any error codes being recorded.

Sorry to hear that. I would have assumed that an updated part would have been fitted last time. If it is the same problem again then there has to be something else involved in the cause. Please keep us posted.
 
Sorry to hear that. I would have assumed that an updated part would have been fitted last time. If it is the same problem again then there has to be something else involved in the cause. Please keep us posted.

Bad shifter pin again? If I remember correctly, previous member on here had similar issue and bike didn't throw any codes...
 
I have almost the same problem with my nc 700 dct. When my bike is warm and going faster than 10km/h the gear indicator disappear... Anyways i found that when the bike is stationary and you can hear the shifter trying to shift gear , just push the bike forwards then it will go into neutral. This is counts for all models of bikes.
 
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