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Need Help New Nc700x owner

Nolanpearson56

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I just got this bike like a month ago and it's my first bike so I need some help learning, when I leave the house or the motor is cold it shifts perfectly but as soon as I have been riding over 10 minutes I have a hard time finding natural and it shift hard from 1st to second especially when stopped, I also have a center stand so I've tested my clutch and when it's cold and in gear the rear tire doesn't move but when it's all warm and it's on the center stand in gear the rear tire spins so I'm not sure what to do because my clutch is adjusted properly at cold( I think) any help is appreciated thank you
 

670cc

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First, I have to question why you want to shift from first to second when stopped. That is not going to work especially well on any manual transmission motorcycle (which I assume is what you have).

I believe your owner’s manual has instruction and illustrations on how to adjust the clutch lever free play. If you don’t have a manual, you can download one from Honda. It sounds like possibly your clutch cable is too loose and needs to be tightened in order to better disengage the clutch when the lever is pulled. Although, I have to say that on my 700 I don’t notice any difference in clutch operation on warm vs cold engine.

I am going to mention engine oil for only one reason: maybe you do or maybe you do not know what oil was installed, if you recently acquired the bike used. For the most part, oil is oil, so we aren’t going to debate the merits of one brand or weight over the other. However, if a totally incorrect oil type is or was in your engine/transmission, it could remotely have an impact on the health of your clutch plates, or clutch operation in your cold vs hot scenario.

As I mentioned, I recommend adjusting your clutch lever free play. Stay in touch; we will try to help.
 

TNHoosier

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In addition to what 670cc said, it would help to have more info about the shifting issues you are experiencing. First, make sure the clutch is adjusted per the owner's manual.

You say this is your first bike so I will assume you are relatively new to riding? Have you taken a rider training course, i.e. MSF Basic Rider Course? If not, I highly recommend you take the class as it focuses on basic skills such as shifting.

When trying to find neutral, are you down shifting all the way to 1st and then lifting to get to neutral? If so, is the bike still moving when you try? If you are stopped, rocking the the bike back and forth while trying to shift to neutral should help. It is generally easier when things are in motion in the transmission. Shifting from 2nd to neutral can be very difficult on some bikes and not possible on a few.

If you are trying to shift from 1st to 2nd while stopped (I question why you want to do this) it will be more difficult because parts of the transmission are not moving. Again, rocking back and forth while trying to shift will help.

Let us know what you discover and we will try to help.
 

Nolanpearson56

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Thanks for all of the replies yes I have taken all of my courses and I have done an oil change to see if it would help with honda gn4 oil and I meant when I'm at a stop light I can't get up into neutral so it shifts into 2nd and skips neutral, I have adjusted my clutch cable and that hasn't helped, and it is easier if I'm still in motion but my father has a 2016 nc700x and he doesn't have any problems at a stand still finding neutral so I was wondering how to fix mine
 

670cc

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Thanks for all of the replies yes I have taken all of my courses and I have done an oil change to see if it would help with honda gn4 oil and I meant when I'm at a stop light I can't get up into neutral so it shifts into 2nd and skips neutral, I have adjusted my clutch cable and that hasn't helped, and it is easier if I'm still in motion but my father has a 2016 nc700x and he doesn't have any problems at a stand still finding neutral so I was wondering how to fix mine
Three things about finding neutral:

1) Make sure the shift lever height is adjusted to match your footwear. That way you have fine control without over or under extending your ankle. Use the turnbuckle to adjust it; do not reposition the bell crank on the shaft.

2) Practice and get familiar with the bike. Taking your post literally, it says you have trouble finding neutral but your father does not. It sounds like a rider issue, not a bike issue.

3) Don’t waste your time finding neutral. I only use neutral for service or rolling the bike in the garage. I have no need for neutral ever when I am riding. If you continue to have trouble finding neutral, quit using it.

There is likely no mechanical problem with your bike, and there is no way to “fix” it
 
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dduelin

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I have a friend with a manual transmission NC700X that has a similar issue. Yes, it has the correct oil type and viscosity in it we know how to adjust the clutch lever and have fiddled around with that adjustment and measured the amount the clutch release arm moves at the transmission end to no avail. ( I think 670cc provided this measurement when I asked him a few months ago ) The bike I mention here just has a notchy neutral that is hard to find at a stop. My friend has been riding a long time and he has just adjusted to it by finding neutral while the bike is still moving a few mph if he needs neutral for parking or if just stopping for a traffic signal he keeps it in 1st gear as we should for safety reasons. His bike has 25,000 plus miles on it.
 
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Nolanpearson56

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I have rode my father's bike and at cold I never have any problems getting into neutral so it's not a big deal I was just wondering if anyone knew off the top of there head thank you all
 

Mrkitty2

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Hi, when I bought my ‘16 750X I had precisely the same problem. Fine until hot. It had 14,000 miles then, (now 74,000). I’m the end, having tried EVERYTHING else, I put new clutch plates in, steels and fibres. Cured it. The old steels were blued, presumably dragging when hot.

Since then, I’ve put another clutch in, as it started to slip after a day couriering in 3rd when the gear lever pivot bolt fell out…

I have a CBF600SA that currently has 194,000 miles. I replaced the clutch at 120,000 as a preventative measure.

I’ve always been curious as to why the NC has a dog-leg clutch lever… my second clutch now slips a little occasionally on full throttle in a higher gears. I also notice that starting cold, there’s less play at the lever than when it’s hot… anyone else?
 

davidc83

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Was this a new bike or a used bike when you got it? If used, the previous owner may have removed the bell crank from the shaft to clea/replace the front sprocket and didnt replace it back in its original location....I know I did that once and missed the correct position by 2 teeth on the shaft and shifting was completely screwed until I got the crank back on the shaft in the correct position.
 

Mrkitty2

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You’re most welcome! It’s a bit of a pain of a job, all those clutch cover bolts… but NOT difficult… If you do it yourself I recommend you make sure you replace all bolts back where they came from! I lay them out in a pattern on the floor as I remove them. Once you’re In There, cracking the main clutch nut can be tough. I put a piece of wood between the swing arm and a wheel spoke. I use my long handled torque wrench with a piece of old CBF fork tube extension for extra force. So satisfying when it turns. Watch out for the plates and the spring, goes together in a particular way… I take ‘em out and lay them face down, as they come out, for reference. And especially endure that the ignition pickup at (I think!) the top, goes back in the right way round! Apart from that it’s a piece of cake. I changed the springs, too. Good luck, let us know how it goes!
 

Mrkitty2

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Thank you so much Mrkitty2 I think I'm going to try that I just didn't know what all i need to replace
What I replaced were the steel clutch plates, and the fibre/cork ones… stick the fibre/cork plates in oil overnight beforehand. You’ll find a very easy neutral afterwards. I also have a BMW RS1200RS and that’s a lot harder to find an easy neutral with! And it clunks like a tractor into first. How I love it, though, marvellous machine. I sold my ‘77 400/4 in 2019. She had such a sweet gearbox. Effortlessly precise, every time. Much as I love my NC, there’s something about the gearbox that doesn’t feel quite right, in comparison to the BMW and my CBF… it’s not a deal-breaker, obvs. Was back out today running blood from hospitals to labs on her. 230 miles from the 14 litres. (Best I ever got was 281 miles from a full tank down to fumes) I often think of the old CX500 and imagine the NC experience to be similar. (Correct me if I’m wrong!)

The NC is a fine friend. If it was a dog, it’d be a Labrador. I think what I love most about her is that I can service everything myself… bar the ABS system! Me no go there! But valves are a cinch.

The BMW is a little more mysterious… lots of Electrickery.

I swapped engines with the 400/4, very easy, apart from getting the blighter back in the frame. And those carb rubbers back on. Sigh.

Anyway, I’m waffling.
 
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