Oil Change

[n30r3l0ad3d]

[video=youtube;GFhQGNbXGbE]http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=GFhQGNbXGbE&feature=youtu.be[/video]

A How-To video on changing the oil on a NC700X. Sorry for the channel left and right audio cutting out randomly, I was putting my finger over the mic.

I want to thank the 8 new subs I picked up from the forums. I appreciate all your support, thank you

Hope this helps!

 

[VE258]

great job! now you have to show us,how to inspect\adjust the valves. never done that before. looking for detailed DIY guide.

Thank you!

 

[n30r3l0ad3d]

great job! now you have to show us,how to inspect\adjust the valves. never done that before. looking for detailed DIY guide.

Thank you!

Will do. I got a ways to get there yet, but I will do one when the time comes.

 

[AnE]

Nice video. I just did mine yesterday. Did mine a little different. I warmed the bike up for about 3 to 5 minutes. Cracked open the oil fill cap then put bike on side stand. Seeing as the drain is on the left lower side I thought more oil would tend to gravitate to the drain better on the side stand. Oil was a little warm. I didn't remove the lower fairing and the oil filter came right off no hassles. Lucky me. While oil filter was draining I put new crush washer on drain bolt and put back in. Put new oil on filter gasket and hand tightened the filter, then 1/8 of a turn with filter wrench to snug. Put 3.5 quartz of oil in without the use of a funnel. This was the first bike without having to use a funnel for me. Cranked bike up and let warm up. Put bike on center stand to check oil level. Perfect.

We did it a little different but got the same result! Nice clean oil. That's all that matters. I think you will beat me to the next oil change as I average about 3k miles a year. I always enjoy and appreciate someone who takes the time to video their maintenance. Thank you.

 

[Old Can Ride]

Mobile 1 Racing 4t is one of the finest motorcycle racing oils made, and that's a fact jack. It contains larger amounts of molly and zinc additives than normal motorcycle oil.

As an Honda, Yamaha, and Suzuki dealer for almost 20 years I have had long talks with Honda, Yamaha, and Suzuki engineers. Everyone of them told me the same thing. At last week's Horizon Unlimited meeting in NC, the man who started Horizon Unlimited, and who has been around the world on motorcycles, and who has also talked to many of the motorcycle company engineers recommended exactly what I am about to tell you.

Back in my racing days if they would have produced Mobile 1 racing oil it would have been in my bike. Being old, short, fat, and ugly if I could some how go back to racing I would use Mobile 1 racing oil. While racing I am looking for any small advantage, and I don't care about the parts, just win baby. But I just have to believe the motorcycle engineers, Mobil 1 racing oil should not be used in a everyday use street bike!

Now I know this upsets a lot of folks when I say this, because this is the best oil in the world. A lot of folks must know better than factory engineers because they swear by Mobile 1 racing oil. However, I have replaced a few clutches that turn blue from this great lub. Yes this does take a long time to happen, and yes some folks don't own a bike long enough for it to happen to them. But racing oils contain extra molly and zinc, and when the clutch starts slipping it just goes out. I use what the professional motorcycle engineers say to use in the product I am riding. I believe that is why they publish the owners manual.

The racing oil is better, but is it better for that bike? Please just use what the manual says to use.

 

[VE258]

Nice video. I just did mine yesterday. Did mine a little different. I warmed the bike up for about 3 to 5 minutes. Cracked open the oil fill cap then put bike on side stand. Seeing as the drain is on the left lower side I thought more oil would tend to gravitate to the drain better on the side stand. Oil was a little warm. I didn't remove the lower fairing and the oil filter came right off no hassles. Lucky me. While oil filter was draining I put new crush washer on drain bolt and put back in. Put new oil on filter gasket and hand tightened the filter, then 1/8 of a turn with filter wrench to snug. Put 3.5 quartz of oil in without the use of a funnel. This was the first bike without having to use a funnel for me. Cranked bike up and let warm up. Put bike on center stand to check oil level. Perfect.

We did it a little different but got the same result! Nice clean oil. That's all that matters. I think you will beat me to the next oil change as I average about 3k miles a year. I always enjoy and appreciate someone who takes the time to video their maintenance. Thank you.

yes. just like in the manual.

 

[CMGuy]

A How-To video on changing the oil on a NC700X.

Love it.

​

Changed oil on numerous cars and a pick-up over the years but never a bike. Now that I know for sure how its done (yes, I've resorted to a screwdriver on at least one occasion) I'll be doing my own when the need arises.

I might add I also referred to the thread on crush washers. Never replaced one of those either. Years ago a shade tree mechanic friend told me that, generally speaking, you torque things until your elbow lights up. Obviously not for everything - I have a torque wrench if I'm really concerned - but you pretty much know when things are tight enough.

 

[ziggie]

Nice job.clean bike.these videos will help alot of folks along the way.i know when i first got mine a chain adjust would have helped alot.i just watched some on different bikes.

 

[dduelin]

This is my first choice wrench. It fits Honda filters for cars and bikes.



Hot oil has the contaminant stuff that settles in the bottom of the sump in cold oil all mixed up and in suspension so it drains out with the hot oil. I don't usually drain it cold for this reason. A piece of aluminum foil can be molded into all kinds of shapes to protect exhaust pipes and direct draining oil to where you want it to go.

 

[Old Can Ride]

I use the same big bike wrench as dduelin. Quick, easy, and nothing slips. Also easy to use with bikes that have fairing, do not have to remove nothing.

 

[Beemerphile]

I have a torque wrench if I'm really concerned - but you pretty much know when things are tight enough.

I would suggest you rethink this. Threads, often into aluminum, are tricky to feel. More damage is done by inexperienced mechanics to motorcycles by over-torque of fasteners than you could imagine. "All the way plus a quarter-turn". I guarantee that if you are replacing the brake calipers you will think it needs much more than 22 ft.lbs. and that the pinch bolt needs more than 16. The axle bolt probably gets under-torqued. That couldn't hurt anything, could it? I have 45 years of wrenching on bikes but I still use the specified torques every time. The oil filter even has a specified torque. Some fasteners are set to an angular spec as well. Some are done dry, some oiled, and some with thread-locker. Some are not to be re-used. Washer head nuts and bolts use higher torque than standard hex. High strength bolts are generally torqued higher than lower strength bolts. Give yourself every opportunity for success. It is not stating it too strongly that your life and the lives of others could depend on it.

You have the tool. Why would you not want to do it properly?

 

[Old Can Ride]

I 150% agree with Beemerphile on this one. As I found out the expensive way, great auto mechanics do not make great motorcycle mechanics. The number one reason is aluminum. Working on a motorcycle is a lot slower process than working on a auto. I hired a fellow once who was the honor graduate at MMI. But, for the last 10 years he had been working in an auto transmission shop. The first job I gave him was what would be easy for any motorcycle mechanic, a stack of 4 high performance motorcycle carbs to rebuild. Due to his over torqueing the customer got a new set of carbs. Can not afford many of those kinds of mistakes. Buy and use your service manual, the pros use them every time.

 

[dduelin]

Rider magazine this month has a coupon for Harbor Freight Tools torque wrenches. They are unbelievably cheap at $10 each with the coupon, like $20 or $30 off retail price (which is already very inexpensive). I don't like Harbor Freight Tools for much but for a single use or infrequently used tools I have bought stuff there. If I didn't already have a 3/8" drive torque wrench I might buy one at HFT.

 

[Naked_Duc]

Great video and very informative. Hurry up and get to 8000 miles so you can do a valve inspection video.

 

[n30r3l0ad3d]

Thanks all for the replies!

Next video's in the works are a rear hugger, chain maintenance, and eventually the valve adjustment. Thank you all again for your support and positive feedback.

As for my choice in oil. I did my research, and went with what I wanted.

 

[CMGuy]

I would suggest you rethink this. I have 45 years of wrenching on bikes but I still use the specified torques every time.

You have the tool. Why would you not want to do it properly?

Learning from the master.

 

[Beemerphile]

A nicely produced video, congrats! In addition to my comments on proper torque setting of both the filter element and the drain plug, I'd add the following observations:

1) Remove the oil fill cap before draining so that the oil flow does not gurgle, which can make it more difficult to contain the waste oil within the drain pan.

2) Draining the oil while at operating temperature does indeed give a better drain, and I think it is worth doing. The comment about the oil getting on the hot pipe is evidence of this, because this means that the oil is flowing better and faster out of the drain. More contaminants are in suspension and there is a thinner film of old oil left on the internals of the engine. Additionally, the oil does not take as long to drain, and it doesn't drip as long at the end of the process. To prevent oil getting on the pipe try the following process... a) Loosen the drain bolt with the socket, ratchet, and extension. b) Once loose, remove the ratchet from the extension and remove the drain bolt with only the socket and extension (for better control). c) When the drain bolt clears the last thread, hold it close to the threaded inlet as a deflector until the oil flow diminishes enough that the stream will not hit the exhaust pipe.

2) To protect against burns from hot oil or surfaces, consider using a pair of good fitting chemical safety gloves instead of exam gloves.

3) The hex socket shoulder screws holding the lower cover on have very shallow hex sockets. Several forum members have stripped them and had to replace them. To prevent this, be sure that you use a flat-ended hex wrench and not a ball-end. The ball-end wrench does not give enough purchase on the socket and leads to stripping it. Also make sure that the flat-end wrench is fully seated in the socket before applying loosening or tightening torque.

4) Use a new crush washer on the drain plug when re-fitting it. I am aware that many will disagree and consider this to be an unconscionable waste of nineteen cents (which rises to a total of just over two bucks in 100,000 miles of ownership of the machine).

https://www.belmetric.com/ga12x18-aluminum-gasket-p-537.html?zenid=i1ff0gk98t7qltjt2vcam4rqt7&cPath=11_92

 

[L.B.S.]

https://www.belmetric.com/ga12x18-aluminum-gasket-p-537.html?zenid=i1ff0gk98t7qltjt2vcam4rqt7&cPath=11_92

[Charlton Heston] Damn you! [/Charlton Heston]



My Kryptonite is cool fastener and clever gizmo vendors.

 

[n30r3l0ad3d]

I am glad that you liked the video Beemerphile.

The oil fill cap was loose while it was draining, hard to see. I did run the bike for a minute or two before draining. I know what the correct procedure was, but given I have burned my knuckles a half dozen times on my CB I did it this way. As far as gloves, they are just some cheap food quality ones I get from a friend. I recently started using them after about 10 years of brake clean, kerosene, oil, gas, you name it on the hands. I inspected the crush washer and found it to be in good condition, and will most likely replace upon the next oil change.

 

[vandyke100]

Great video, well done. Been there with the screw driver trick through the filter, on a car. I'm coming up on first break in oil change in about 100 miles and have been reading about how tight the oil filter is to get off the first time. I see others are using a "Big Bike" oil filter wrench, think I will use that. K&N oil filter going on that have the nut on the end, very cool. I have always hand tightened my oil filters, but torqued the drain nut to factory spec. Rarely replaced the crush washer because I forget to order them, but going to change my ways for the NC