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PSA: using a CTX clutch cable on nc700s

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Hi everyone

I just wanted to share some info about the clutch system on my 2012 nc700sa. I have run the CTX cable for about 12,000 km, but in the process of diagnosing some clutch issues, I am reverting to the stock cable. If you are thinking of converting to the CTX cable, it does work, but it will be right at the limit of its freeplay adjustment. It works on a new clutch, but very soon there will be too much freeplay, and there won't be much threaded adjustment left to compensate. A picture is worth a thousand words here:

nc700s clutch cable comparison.png

I called my Australian dealer to check whether there have been any product updates, TSBs, or superceded parts for the nc700sa clutch system, but he said there definitely aren't any. I am well aware of the comprehensive updates made to the 2016+ nc750 clutch system. So I have ditched the CTX cable and installed a new, standard nc700sa cable and routed it as per the service manual: straight down from the clutch lever, behind the headstock, squeeze through the bracket that also holds the throttle cables, and down the frame to the clutch cover.

It is frustrating, because I had the CTX cable routed in a beautiful smooth arc externally, that thing was never going to wear out. But after dropping $1100 AUD on a new clutch assembly, I want everything to be as factory as possible to rule out any unintended side effects from modifying my bike. I will even go back from penrite HPR 5 to honda GN4 oil just to make this a perfectly controlled experiment.

Hopefully this information helps somebody out here. Cheers.
 
If the standard clutch cable for the NC700S fits and operates fine, what was the reason for installing a CTX700 clutch cable on your S?

I use a CTX clutch cable on my NC700X. I have 80mm of handlebar riser installed. The CTX cable is 100mm longer than the stock NC700X cable. The CTX cable is a perfect fit, whereas the NC cable is now way too short. I couldn’t now use the stock X cable even if I wanted to. I have no problems with the adjustment range using the CTX cable, and I have been using one for, I guessing, 30,000 miles or 50,000 km. .

Of course, I’m on the X and you are on the S, and there are differences. But all that really matters is the clutch lever and actuator bracket dimensions, as they relate to the difference between the inner cable and sheath dimensions on the cables.
 
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If the standard clutch cable for the NC700S fits and operates fine, what was the reason for installing a CTX700 clutch cable on your S?
The original cable kinked and seized around 35,000 km: the kink point was the sharp bend it takes to fit the cable bracket. I thought this kink was the cause of my notchy shifting.

Pictures are worth a thousand words here, first, here's how I changed the routing , aiming to avoid future kinking, I routed it in a broad external arc:
nc700s clutch cable comparison2.png

I don't have risers installed on my S (yet). If you ran the CTX cable on a stock S in the stock routing, it would be far too long. The important thing to understand is that the bends and turns of the stock cable routing actually consume cable travel, and that's why you see the difference in adjustment at the bottom bracket in my first post. Because of the broad arc routing I was running, I prolonged the life of the cable but lost almost all my adjustment AND the unsupported cable outer meant that the freeplay would change from full left lock to full right lock - not an issue with the stock cable, because the outer cable sheath is braced and supported.

I have kept my CTX cable for when I install risers, but I will be routing it via the OEM twisted route, not in the arc I was running before. I will just have to accept that the cables need to be replaced semi frequently if you do much city riding.

Btw, the X model has a more appropriate OEM cable routing: it goes in front of the headstock before curving into the brace. Whereas on the S, the cable bends behind the headstock and has to turn 90 degrees to pass through the cable brace. So the S cables will have a much shorter life.
nc700x clutch cable.png
 
Thank you for the detailed, illustrated explanations of the cable routings. The main issue does seem to be Honda’s complex routing of the stock clutch cable.

I’m still a tittle confused on why the CTX cable didn’t work for you. Forgeting about the stock S cable and routing for a moment, my X has the CTX cable installed (in the stock routing path) as basically one sweeping bend, similar to but not exactly how you had done on your S. There is only mild cable flexing when the bars are turned left or right. The cable adjustment range is adequate and consistent. So, assuming the S has the same clutch lever and mount, and the same lower cable mount bracket, and of course, the same cutch/engine as the X, and you routed the CTX cable in a long sweeping bend, I don’t understand how that scenario differs much from my X scenario.

The key to having the right adjustment range and freeplay lies not in the overall cable assembly length, but in the length difference between the outer sheath and the inner cable. I wonder if there was some variation from specs in the cable manufacturing of the CTX cable you have. My CTX cable is installed now, but if it were not, I could lay it out straight and we could compare the cables by measuring the amount the steel cable extends outside of the sheath.
 
I’m still a tittle confused on why the CTX cable didn’t work for you... my X has the CTX cable installed (in the stock routing path)

I think it's all in the routing. The S bends in the stock routing consume cable travel, so running the CTX cable in a broad arc meant that that cable length wasn't consumed in the routing - it had to be taken up with the threaded barrel adjusters.

If you ran the CTX cable on a stock nc700s in the stock routing path, it would be far too long to even fit into the clutch lever. When I install risers, I will probably be able to install the CTX cable and route it the same way as the stock cable, and I would expect to see the adjustment issue resolved.

Notice in my original post, despite the CTX cable assembly being longer, the length of exposed section of inner cable is about the same on the CTX and the 700S cable: the relative difference in length between inner cable and outer sheath is just about the same. The couple of MM difference is probably due to the CTX cable stretching, it has about 12,000km on it.
 
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The key to having the right adjustment range and freeplay lies not in the overall cable assembly length, but in the length difference between the outer sheath and the inner cable. I wonder if there was some variation from specs in the cable manufacturing of the CTX cable you have. My CTX cable is installed now, but if it were not, I could lay it out straight and we could compare the cables by measuring the amount the steel cable extends outside of the sheath.

^^^^^^^^^^^^
Agree with this statement and conclusion.
The distance of the inner cable as shown in the first post is insignificant.
The over all cable length could in theory be 20’ long. It would be a mess to route. The difference in the inner cable and out sheath is the critical part.........that difference is adjusted at the engine and lever adjusters to gain the proper free play.
 

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