Questions about electrical farkle's?

[76Hawke]

I'm cutting into my brake lights, turn signals, and running lights for a license plate brake light and turn signal indicator, top Box lights and turn signal indicators, and a helmet light and turn signal indicator, as well as adding a strobe device for The top Box and license plate only.
In addition I installed a USB port into the Frunk and it has an attached voltmeter and inline fuse. It comes with battery ring terminals To hook up straight to the battery. If I go to the accessory sub harness will the Volt meter still read accurately, or should I go to the sub harness, and if I do should I get rid of the fuse? Or should I go straight to the battery? Hmmmm...
Am I correct in understanding that I should take both the wires for the running light and the plate light for the aftermarket license plate holder and hook them up to the same wire on my bike ( Pink and blue in my case for 2015 Manual)?
Lastly, I'm adding some Apollo heated grips. They also seem to be intended to wire directly to the battery with an auto shut off if the voltage drops too low. I'm wondering again if I should go directly to the battery or tap into the sub harness, which already has the relay kit and fuse installed as well.
TLDR: If my farkles appear intended to wire directly to the battery and have auto shut off features as well as voltmeters and inline fuses, should I run them straight to the battery instead of the sub harness?
And since the license plate holder that I am installing calls for running lights and a license plate holder wire, should I just attach both of those leads to the same wire in the rear of my bike?
Thanks A ton for reading, I wish brevity was a stronger suit of mine.

 

[CapeMan]

I never really trust the "auto" shutoffs in auxiliary equipment. It's not that I know better, just my suspicious nature - well, that plus an understanding that nature always sides with the hidden flaw. So I'd use the aux harness. BTW, the fuse w/ the aux harness also powers the OEM heated grips (when installed) so there's every chance you could run your Apollos too. If I'm wrong, the fuse will blow!

Voltmeters are most accurate when connected directly to the battery terminals. Ya see, any time you've got current flowing in a wire, there'll be "some" voltage drop, where "some" may be miniscule or not depending on the wire length and size and current. If you try to measure voltage somewhere in a circuit that's also powering some other load, you will not see the exact voltage that's at the battery teminals. For your purposes, it probably doesn't matter. I went right to the subharness with mine.

 

[Klap]

USB/voltmeter: DO NOT hook this directly to the battery.....the PO of my present bike ( who claimed to be a Honda mechanic) wired a USB directly to the battery, and it killed two batteries, and was working on a third. It did not draw a lot, but just enough to sulphate up the battery over time. I caught it, and used a de-sulphating charger- the battery seems to be ok now. And NO, there does not have to be a device plugged into the USB adaptor- it has a parasitic drain just like the ones in your house.

On my bike, I used a fuseblock hidden in the frunk , powered up by a 40 A relay, which turns on when the ignition is on.. I have the aux wire harness as well, but needed some more amperage than it could provide. Of course, hooking the USB/voltmeter to the aux harness would be okay, as long as it is a SWITCHED power source. No, the voltmeter won't be as accurate as if it were hooked to the battery, but those meters are not, after all, Fluke DVM's- the voltage drop you get from not hooking it up to the battery won't be that large.

 

[Txagharrison]

I got a license plate frame at Cycle Gear for my 2013 NC700X DCT ABS that has integrated LED's for running, stop, brake and turn signals. I went to Eastern Beaver who has some wiring that will allow you to tap into the turn signals without cutting the existing fittings off of yours. Look at the taps for the CBR1000RR, same thing - even the colors are correct. They made me something for tapping into my brake light too, but it didn't work the way I wanted it to, probably a communications issue on my side. At the same time, I installed LED Head and Tail / Brake lights, which I'm very happy with. Didn't bother with the turn signals as I didn't want to fool around with the flasher relay. I tried to attach a pic. I really like the lighted frame; I think it adds a lot of visibility down there below the top box. Anything to help from being rear ended. Good luck!

 

[BFair]

Hope this helps, red plug 4 wires, green ground, white 11v, red 4.9v, black\white 12.9 (full battery) switched. 2014 NC700X US.