AdamW
Member
I'm interested in these anti-vibration risers from Rox. I could use the vibration dampening, even at twice the price of the regular risers. These look like they're shaped differently. Will they mount on my NCX?
Rox risers installed
- Thread starter FlaNC700X
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DanWill
New Member
As long as they can slide in the original risers and that bottom nut doesn't hit the triple tree, they should work.
AdamW
Member
That bottom nut is what I'm worried about. I need someone who's installed the regular Rox risers to tell me if there's enough clearance for that nut.
ziggie
New Member
Or to save some you could go with the black rox that others use and some grip puppies.i don't feel much vibration if any its in the.foot pegs.
bamamate
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I have the standard Rox risers and there is about 1.5inch below them so those "should" work.
AdamW
Member
Thanks. I called Rox (vey nice folks) and they said I need only 1 inch, so I'm gonna give em a try. I'll report back, with pics of course.
Question for those of you that have installed Rox Risers. I have never used these before so something new to me. I've read over all the post for months so I'm not worried about the install. I would like to know if I have etched the post enough so that they will not move once installed?
OldJeff
Member
That will do just fine Chuck, looks about like mine did and they have not moved at all.
Great thanks. Stuck at work again today so not sure when they'll get put on.
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Make sure you torque the front bolts down first, on the Honda clamp, then the rear, if you over torque you may brake the Honda clamp. The lower height rizors will stay, if you don't lift the bike, and push it at the same time, by the bars. The Honda bar hold downs are made to come together totally on the front, then tighten the rear. If the clamp brakes, because of the front being metal to metal the bar will rotate, but not move left to right and maybe you will not crash. All Honda products are this way, and front axle clamps. Dale
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I tightened mine evenly so guess I should re do them. Thanks for the lesson.
pismocycleguy
New Member
Kawasaki and Suzuki also recommend torquing down the front bolts first. There is then a gap at the rear bolt.
Must be an industry standard.
Must be an industry standard.
I just read through entire thread and I have not seen anyone mention the torque spec. Anyone know if off the top of there head? Appreciate the advice HondaBikePro. I'll be sure to tighten the front bolts first.
ziggie
New Member
I did not use the rox but when looking for advice on torque spec 10 to 12 pounds was the answer.
I just finished installing the Rox Risers. Couple things I had not gleaned from the previous posts but nothing that was a show stopper. These are the steps I took in order.
1) Cut the tie straps for the brake cable harness and throttle cable harness. These are a one time use type securing strap but once you cut the strap you can push the free piece out of the locking portion for later use.
2) Took the handlebars free. Removed all four 12mm bolts.
3) Removed the bolt 8mm bolt that secures the clip for the brake line.
4) Replaced the Honda Clamp and spun bolts to hand tight. Slide the Rox Riser in place and began tightening the front bolts. At this point I realized I would not be able to use a standard torque device. My torque wrench is made for sockets. A socket will not fit here. A 12mm crowsfoot may have been the way to go but I do not have one in that size. Keep this in mind if you plant to torque to spec. You cannot use a socket. I have a full set of crescent ratcheting combo wrenches. It worked perfectly.
5) Placed bars in Rox Risers. Centered the grooved portion in the clamps. Set bars where comfortable. Tightened all four 6mm allen bolts.
6) Secured the brake line clip. It is at much more of an angle and the rubber grommet now hits a cross bar at full lock. Barely. I will continue to watch this but it should be fine.
7) Secured the throttle cable and clutch cable with a replacement tie strap.
The two main things that caught me off guard was not being able to use my torque wrench and the one time use tie strap devices used. I have never used rox risers so it was new to me although it was very simple. I'll be carrying a 12mm wrench and a 6mm allen wrench with me for a couple weeks until I am comfortable things are secure.
Figured I'd add a few pictures.
1) Cut the tie straps for the brake cable harness and throttle cable harness. These are a one time use type securing strap but once you cut the strap you can push the free piece out of the locking portion for later use.
2) Took the handlebars free. Removed all four 12mm bolts.
3) Removed the bolt 8mm bolt that secures the clip for the brake line.
4) Replaced the Honda Clamp and spun bolts to hand tight. Slide the Rox Riser in place and began tightening the front bolts. At this point I realized I would not be able to use a standard torque device. My torque wrench is made for sockets. A socket will not fit here. A 12mm crowsfoot may have been the way to go but I do not have one in that size. Keep this in mind if you plant to torque to spec. You cannot use a socket. I have a full set of crescent ratcheting combo wrenches. It worked perfectly.
5) Placed bars in Rox Risers. Centered the grooved portion in the clamps. Set bars where comfortable. Tightened all four 6mm allen bolts.
6) Secured the brake line clip. It is at much more of an angle and the rubber grommet now hits a cross bar at full lock. Barely. I will continue to watch this but it should be fine.
7) Secured the throttle cable and clutch cable with a replacement tie strap.
The two main things that caught me off guard was not being able to use my torque wrench and the one time use tie strap devices used. I have never used rox risers so it was new to me although it was very simple. I'll be carrying a 12mm wrench and a 6mm allen wrench with me for a couple weeks until I am comfortable things are secure.
Figured I'd add a few pictures.
OldJeff
Member
FINALLY! 
GJ Chuck, let me know what you think of them after installing. I see you went straight up and in line with your install, but that 1/2 you get by going 45 degrees back is MACIC
GJ Chuck, let me know what you think of them after installing. I see you went straight up and in line with your install, but that 1/2 you get by going 45 degrees back is MACIC Hyperborea
Member
Brake line mount on the lower triple tree has the rubber bumper on the hose skewed from the bracket. There's a flat part on the rubber bumper and your's isn't lined up with the flat part of the bracket. I know because I've seen that thing too many darn times trying to get the Hepco Becker bars to not rub it.
I appreciate your pointing that out. I noticed it prior to closing up shop and rotated it in place. That is a tough area to work with big hands. Thanks for mentioning it though just in case I had missed it.
FINALLY!
For whatever reason I did not have much room to pull them back 45 degrees. The brake line was getting fairly tight and I had already maxed out the limit of the hose clamp. I had more brake line but that damn grommet is a fixed part of the hose. I'm half temped to find a similar grommet and install it over the hose at the lower point. I could easily gain another 1/2 to 3/4 inch. Well see how she feels and if I'm not satisfied I'll try to get a little more angle.
Hyperborea
Member
SergeantChuck said:
I quite understand. I have a pair of little hams myself.
It is not fixed. I found that out during the HB bar fiasco too. I couldn't get the rubber bumper to move up or down on the brake line. When I rotated it though it gave way and then could slide up and down the brake line to the limits of the protective cover. I don't think it was originally attached from the factory but just the two rubber items (hose and bumper) stuck together with heat and time.
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