Shinko 705

[670cc]

It’s easy to buy into “you get what you pay for”, because it sort of makes sense anyway. But the more savvy I think I’ve become, I don’t believe it anymore. I see it more that companies can get higher prices for their product if the general perception is there that the product is better, but upon very close scrutiny, I find that the product sometimes is not actually better, and is sometimes worse, for my needs, than a lower priced product. It also comes down to the overused word “value”, which might mean different things to different people, but to me means that I get the product I want for the price I’m willing to pay, regardless of how it fits into price range or the perceived scale of best to worst quality.

In the case of Shinko, I have so far found them to be a good value, and in a sense, “you get more than you pay for”.

Companies can dupe some people into paying more just by having a higher price. If you were to burst into a store without doing any research, demanding the “best” product, you could easily be sold the most expensive product simply because it IS the most expensive product. You walk out convinced you bought the best, because it cost the most.

This topic is fresh in my mind because I just bought a new RV to replace an old one. I went into the 1.5 year long shopping session intent on buying the best RV in my segment of interest, regardless of the cost. In the end, after much research, I bought an RV in almost the lowest price range because it had features and qualities that the “luxury” models sorely lacked. I believe if I had paid more, I would have had more problems and missed important features.

 

[davidc83]

I should have clarified. Shinko 777 was what the thread topic was initially based around, as the OP was complaining of very poor tire wear out of a supposed long lasting model (777) on his Harley. Like half shot rear tire in a matter of a few months. Then another guy posted the pic of the 705 as a reference to Shinko's quality, or lack thereof. Which is why I posted it in the 705 thread here. Figured as hot of a tire as the 705 is here, there would be some interest in a pic of one with tread lugs blown off of it. Bet that made for a bumpy/scary ride from 70mph to a stop. Lol

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I have the shinko 777 (the picture 670cc posted is the correct 777 tire) on both the rear of my Honda nc700 (I have to check my records/odo but I think it has around 7000 miles on it so far-do need to replace it soon though, maybe 600-800 miles left on it) and my C50 Boulevard and it has almost 10,000 miles on it-I know this without checking records cause bike had 90,125 miles on it when installed and bike now has 99,575 miles on it and still good for at least another 1000 miles-in parking lot at work now. I see a lot of posts on the ADVrider forum where guys are running the 705s and no problems (Indiana and Louisville ride threads).. when I replace the rear tire on the boulevard though, I am going back to the Pirelli rt66s..I get 18,000-20,000 miles on the front and 15,000-17,000 (miles) on the rear...too bad they dont make that tire in sizes for the NC.

 

[davidc83]

I have the Shinko Raven on the front of the NC (I know, different tires front and back....no issue) and it has over 10,000 miles, put it on April 2018 and it is going to make it thru this riding season (it has at least another 1000-1500 miles left). I will probably go back to the Raven on the rear for the NC in the spring with a new front tire also...

 

[davidc83]

Oh yes, they do not like Tar Snakes and neither did my Conti-Motions. I nearly dumped the NC wearing Conti's on a section of Tar Snakes coming down the Lewiston grade and almost took the scenic route haha! :{)

Yea, and the Conti's rear dont have any thread or wear indicator in the middle of the tire, so it can go from what you think is good to cords showing without notice.- The Conti-Motion Pros that is....

 

[davidc83]

Ran across this in my research for cruiser tires for my Nomad. Dang Shinkos! No way, Jose!

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no context of what type of conditions they were riding before the I-75 incident...were they riding loose shale gravel (which can cut tires) or any other type of bad conditions roads (some pot holes with sharp edges can cut knobbies-even big knobbies).

 

[davidc83]

I should have clarified. Shinko 777 was what the thread topic was initially based around, as the OP was complaining of very poor tire wear out of a supposed long lasting model (777) on his Harley. Like half shot rear tire in a matter of a few months. Then another guy posted the pic of the 705 as a reference to Shinko's quality, or lack thereof. Which is why I posted it in the 705 thread here. Figured as hot of a tire as the 705 is here, there would be some interest in a pic of one with tread lugs blown off of it. Bet that made for a bumpy/scary ride from 70mph to a stop. Lol

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My mom and pop motorcycle shop (who are neighbors on most weekends)-the pop has multiple harleys-newer and 1940 something (a couple of 1960 something models) model and he puts the 777s on his-has since Shinko started selling them.

 

[TheIronWarrior]

It also comes down to the overused word “value”, which might mean different things to different people, but to me means that I get the product I want for the price I’m willing to pay, regardless of how it fits into price range or the perceived scale of best to worst quality.

"Value" is definitely a super subjective measurement. Someone who only rides short distances in town in good weather is going to need a significantly different tire than someone who hits the track every weekend. The in-town rider would get minimal increase in "value" by getting top of the line track capable tires, and at a huge increase in cost. Conversely, there is zero "value" in a budget tire for the track weekend-warrior.
I would suggest the best definition of "value" in this sense is the lowest price tire you can find that meets the requirements for your scenario. To further refine, factor in lifetime of the tire. All else being equal, half-price tire that lasts almost as long is a better deal, but a half-price tire that lasts only a quarter of the higher priced tire is not.
Some people demand the extra confidence a big name brand brings, and many feel more comfortable with a tire that will perform well beyond their own capabilities. It's a very personal choice. On a Ninja 300 forum I also frequent, many people crap all over the OEM IRC RoadWinner bias ply tires and tell everyone that will listen that if they don't "upgrade" to a major manufacturer radial tire soon they are an accident waiting to happen. My 2015 Ninja 300 still has the OEM RoadWinners and I have never had an issue with them. When they wear out, I'll probably put something nicer on there (PERSONALLY I prefer to have tires that are a little better than I expect to need) but what I've got now works fine.

Somewhat Related: There's a tire shop (car, not bike) in Canada that I've ordered tires online from who on their website let you sort by "quality/price value". Basically they compare user ratings to dollar value to get a ratio. While not very objective, it seems like the "discount" brands generally rank higher by this metric.
Based on that information, I'd be inclined to revise the "you get what you pay for" statement since in general a tire priced twice as high does not give you twice the quality.

 

[TacomaJD]

"Value" is definitely a super subjective measurement. Someone who only rides short distances in town in good weather is going to need a significantly different tire than someone who hits the track every weekend. The in-town rider would get minimal increase in "value" by getting top of the line track capable tires, and at a huge increase in cost. Conversely, there is zero "value" in a budget tire for the track weekend-warrior.
I would suggest the best definition of "value" in this sense is the lowest price tire you can find that meets the requirements for your scenario. To further refine, factor in lifetime of the tire. All else being equal, half-price tire that lasts almost as long is a better deal, but a half-price tire that lasts only a quarter of the higher priced tire is not.
Some people demand the extra confidence a big name brand brings, and many feel more comfortable with a tire that will perform well beyond their own capabilities. It's a very personal choice. On a Ninja 300 forum I also frequent, many people crap all over the OEM IRC RoadWinner bias ply tires and tell everyone that will listen that if they don't "upgrade" to a major manufacturer radial tire soon they are an accident waiting to happen. My 2015 Ninja 300 still has the OEM RoadWinners and I have never had an issue with them. When they wear out, I'll probably put something nicer on there (PERSONALLY I prefer to have tires that are a little better than I expect to need) but what I've got now works fine.

Somewhat Related: There's a tire shop (car, not bike) in Canada that I've ordered tires online from who on their website let you sort by "quality/price value". Basically they compare user ratings to dollar value to get a ratio. While not very objective, it seems like the "discount" brands generally rank higher by this metric.
Based on that information, I'd be inclined to revise the "you get what you pay for" statement since in general a tire priced twice as high does not give you twice the quality.

Just a note, oem tires are usually not made the same as if you were to buy that same name and model tire and put back on it after those oem tires wear out. Dunlop and Bridgestone are world's worst, and I'm sure other tire manufacturers do it too. They make a cheaper tire with different compounds/construction to keep costs down for the oem, even though it looks the same and is named the same as the aftermarket tire they offer. Coincidentally this ruins a lot of people's view on certain brands because of poor performance of those oem tires. Bridgestone battle axe and dunlop sportmax lines are two that I have personal experience with being terrible cheap oem tires. The ZX10R I bought new in 07 had Dunlop Sportmax Qualifiers on it, the rear was shot in 2k miles of normal riding. But if I had ordered another tire just like it on the internet and put on it, it would have probably lasted the normal 4k-ish miles that hypersport tires usually last. Same with Suzuki using Bridgestones as oem, they were absolute junk. Easy to spin and wore out quickly.

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[showkey]

OEM often spec a tire with different characteristics. While the differences are published they are notes in most specs.
Example for OEM Bridgestone Battlewing BW502 tire...........

OEM Applications:

Type B - BMW R1200GS 2007-2012, Suzuki DL1000 2002-2012
Type D - Suzuki DL1000 2014
Type E - Yamaha Super Tenere 2012-2014
Type F - Honda VFR1200X 2016
110/80R19 59V TL (Type G) - BMW F650GS 2009-2014
140/80R17 69V TL (Type G) - BMW F650GS 2009-2014
90/90-21 54V TT (Type G) - BMW F800GS 2009-2014, Triumph Tiger 800 2012-2015
150/70R17 69V TT (Type G) - BMW F800GS 2009-2014, Triumph Tiger 800 2012-2015
Type J - Suzuki DL1000 2014


The type is on the tire:



Another example of OEM is Goldwing tires:

Bridgestone Exedra Honda Goldwing Radial Tires for GL1800 Models
Designed and developed closely with Honda, specifically for Honda Goldwing GL1800 models.

Features:
Original equipment on all Goldwing models since 2012 - G709 front, G704 rear
Superior replacement tires for all other Honda GL1800 models
Unidirectional pattern for reliable performance on dry or wet surfaces
Tread compound maximizes traction and mileage



Would agree 705 had a horrible reputation years back on ADV rider. Dozens of reports on large ADV bikes similar to the above post 46 with large chunks missing from the tread. The other complaint was cracking between the tread blocks.

 

[Rapturee]

I installed the Shinko 705 rear tire 140/80-17 back in May of this year at 10850 miles.


Here is the same tire now at end of Sept(4 months of hard riding on & off road) with 8544 miles on it.


I have not been easy on these tires. I have pulled many of the mountain passes in my area with and w/o touring loads wide open throttle during the heat of our summer. I mean long hard pulls for many miles to the top. I have also spun it many times off-roading(mostly on purpose), though never on the pavement. There are no signs of "lifting" or cracking in between the lugs.

So far i have been very pleased with the Shinko 705's. The front 705 has about 5k on it currently and it barely shows any wear at all. I will now be replacing the rear 705 very soon with another one for my trip to Alaska in June 2020! :{)

 

[Rapturee]

And here is the same tire after one last 525 mile trip! Now, it is done for... and time to replace it haha!

Totalling 9069 miles on it! :{)

 

[kumatae]

I will update this post with a picture of my worn tires but I installed them at 20,500 miles and just replaced them at 30,190. Nothing but regular highway commutes and 400 miles of rough dirt and rocks. Think had 2 punctures on them. The 705s went up in price so I just replaced it with Shinko 712s. The front 705s still going strong which have been on since 9,830 miles. I say these are some really good tires!

Updated.

 

[Rapturee]

THe 705's have gone up in price, where are you shopping my friend? I just replaced my rear with a new 705 in 140/80-17 for $67.00 including shipping to my door! (ya ok it still is not here yet haha).
:{)

 

[kumatae]

THe 705's have gone up in price, where are you shopping my friend? I just replaced my rear with a new 705 in 140/80-17 for $67.00 including shipping to my door! (ya ok it still is not here yet haha).
:{)

Ah, I wasn’t looking at that size... I look at the usuals like chaparral, motorcycle superstore and eBay. The front 705s just got delivered yesterday so I’ll install in few more thousand miles!


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[Rapturee]

Yipee, my new rear 705 arrived! Now to go have it mounted up tomorrow and break it in! :{)

 

[cozycabin]

based on my experience that will be very soon. I have 4k on my 705 150.70 and it's toast. wish someone could tell me why. I don't ride that hard, but have the misfortune of living in MIchigan. The front is SUPER loud. probably will go another way when it wears out. already got a 712 for the rear at change.

sorry thought this would post by post #8 that I was replying to. about his tire becoming less tall like stock as it wore out.

 

[cozycabin]

I will update this post with a picture of my worn tires but I installed them at 20,500 miles and just replaced them at 30,190. Nothing but regular highway commutes and 400 miles of rough dirt and rocks. Think had 2 punctures on them. The 705s went up in price so I just replaced it with Shinko 712s. The front 705s still going strong which have been on since 9,830 miles. I say these are some really good tires!

Updated.

I can probaly get another 1k or so till mine are quite as worn as yours there. 4k has me down to the mold lines. highway and suburban and country roads. some gravel and dirt in there as well.

 

[Rapturee]

Hey Cozy that is a good looking wear pattern. Good job on keeping an eye on the weight carried and psi used. I check mine often(not every ride though, but often). Only on high mpg test will i air them up high(for lower rolling resistance). ANyway, i'm sure happy with both of mine. You mentioned a lot of noise on your front tire, i don't see that with mine. I get some humming about 18-25mph and that is about it. :{P

 

[TheIronWarrior]

OEM often spec a tire with different characteristics. While the differences are published they are notes in most specs.
Example for OEM Bridgestone Battlewing BW502 tire...........

OEM Applications:

Type B - BMW R1200GS 2007-2012, Suzuki DL1000 2002-2012
Type D - Suzuki DL1000 2014
Type E - Yamaha Super Tenere 2012-2014
Type F - Honda VFR1200X 2016
110/80R19 59V TL (Type G) - BMW F650GS 2009-2014
140/80R17 69V TL (Type G) - BMW F650GS 2009-2014
90/90-21 54V TT (Type G) - BMW F800GS 2009-2014, Triumph Tiger 800 2012-2015
150/70R17 69V TT (Type G) - BMW F800GS 2009-2014, Triumph Tiger 800 2012-2015
Type J - Suzuki DL1000 2014

Or how the (at least 2012 MY) NC700 came with Metzeler Z8's. The rear was just a "normal" tire, but the front was an "E-Spec" which supposedly specially designed for the NC700, but is also a little more expensive than the "M-Spec". I think I remember reading it had a different profile specifically designed around the steering geometry, but I can't seem to find any reference to that anymore.

 

[A_B]

What I'm running

Wondering what size rear shinko 705 to buy the 170/60/17 or 150/70/17

I'm running the Shinko 705s on my 2015 with 120/70-17 for the front, 170/60-17 for the rear I have about 6000 miles on them. I am happy with them.