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(SOLVED) Help: nc700 water pump removal

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I'm overhauling the cooling system, including replacing the water pump seals. I can't get the pump far enough out of the engine to remove the mounting bolts, because it just hits the frame.
  • Has anyone had any success with this job before?
  • And does anyone have the torque values for the water pump housing?
Page 8-13 of the workshop manual is where I am, that's all the information I have at the moment.
 

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You might have to search. I think I have seen mention of this previously on here.
 
It has been talked about prior..........with no real conclusion because the manual says the pump will come off in the frame. Forum members reported that yes it comes out and no it does not ? With no further information and no accounting to the mechanical skill or experience of the posters.

If the pump comes out in the frame there is a technique ( unknown) required.

OP was the water pump leaking ? Leaking water pump is a very rare occurance.
 
The bolt length, and the frame to engine spacing seems to have very little tolerance. Apparently on some bikes the pump can be removed with the engine in the frame, on others it can’t (easily)

As already stated, this issue has been brought up before. I think the solution might be to cut off the old bolt in order to get the pump off. At installion, you would need to trim the new bolt to the exact size needed to fit the space allowed.
 
I am wondering if You were to completely loosen all bolts. Then remove the ones You can remove. Then wiggle the pump unit to an angle that will allow final bolt removal ?
 
Solved. I'm going to write a detailed solution here for anybody googling years into the future. I will use photos but also text for longevity.

To remove the water pump on the honda nc700, you need to do more than what the service manual specifies. Class, turn your books to page 8-12: https://www.manualslib.com/manual/1106110/Honda-Nc700xa.html?page=291#manual
  1. Do all the steps the manual mentions on this page, so drain coolant, remove radiator and cooling hoses. Now is a good time to replace your hoses, my 2012 coolant bypass hose [19322-MGS-D30] was especially crusty. You don't need to remove the frunk on the nc700s to remove the coolant bypass hose; instead I unclipped the evap hose from the clutch cable bracket and dug the hose out with trim picks and a screwdriver.
  2. Unclip #1 spark plug wire and drain hose from the front lower frame rail
  3. Remove all the water pump cover bolts. Three will come out easily (90006-GHB-730 and 2x 90006-GHB-690), two will hit the frame as you loosen them (90006-GHB-700). It might be an idea to order two of these in advance in case you want to cut/file the heads off to ease disassembly, but then you will be back to square one come reassembly time). I used pliers to continue turning the bolts maybe 1.5 more rotations after they touch the frame, so they are digging into the frame, but they will come out. You can wiggle the water pump assembly out of the head while you do this, to help get some angle on the bolts as they squeeze out of the head.
  4. Once the bolts are out, reinsert the water pump assembly into the head.
  5. Now remove the outer painted housing 19221-MGS-D10 partially, still holding it within the frame and remove dowel pin 90704-MGS-D30
  6. Separate and remove center plate 19231-MGS-D30 from the outer painted housing
  7. Now you can remove the outer housing by rotating it down and forwards out of the frame
  8. Now remove the inner water pump assembly from the head and remove it from the engine.
I found an oil leak I didn't even detect was there. There was a fair amount of corrosion as you can see in the attached pictures, however I can't tell whether that is due to wrong coolant type (bought this bike with green silicated coolant in it, hence why I am doing this job, and replacing it with genuine honda coolant) or just due to age. I am replacing all three cooling hoses, flushing the radiator, and replacing all the water pump O rings, copper washers, and gaskets.

List of part numbers:
Water pump:
TWO - GASKET, WP BODY 19226-MGS-D30 - $7.75EA - EX JAPAN
O-RING, 22X2(ARAI) 91301-GK1-003 - $4.35
O-RING, 48X2.6 91301-MGS-D30 - $4.45 - EX JAPAN
TWO - WASHER, 6.5MM 90463-ML7-000 - $4.00

Thermostat:
RUBBER, THERMOSTAT 19305-KV3-010 - $8.30
O-RING, 30MM 91356-425-003 - $7.75
HOSE, WATER BYPASS 19322-MGS-D30 - $14.95 - EX JAPAN

Radiator:
HOSE, RADIATOR UPPER 19505-MGS-D30 - $14.40 - EX JAPAN
HOSE, RADIATOR LOWER 19506-MGS-D30 - $21.35 - EX JAPAN
TUBE, 5.3X580 95005-55001-20M - $28.45
TUBE, 5.3X250 95005-55001-20M - $28.45
THREE - CLIP, TUBE(B10) 95002-02100 - $2.50EA
PACKING, RESERVE TANK 19107-GET-000 - $5.95 - EX JAPAN
 

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Solved. I'm going to write a detailed solution here for anybody googling years into the future. I will use photos but also text for longevity.

To remove the water pump on the honda nc700, you need to do more than what the service manual specifies. Class, turn your books to page 8-12: https://www.manualslib.com/manual/1106110/Honda-Nc700xa.html?page=291#manual
  1. Do all the steps the manual mentions on this page, so drain coolant, remove radiator and cooling hoses. Now is a good time to replace your hoses, my 2012 coolant bypass hose [19322-MGS-D30] was especially crusty. You don't need to remove the frunk on the nc700s to remove the coolant bypass hose; instead I unclipped the evap hose from the clutch cable bracket and dug the hose out with trim picks and a screwdriver.
  2. Unclip #1 spark plug wire and drain hose from the front lower frame rail
  3. Remove all the water pump cover bolts. Three will come out easily (90006-GHB-730 and 2x 90006-GHB-690), two will hit the frame as you loosen them (90006-GHB-700). It might be an idea to order two of these in advance in case you want to cut/file the heads off to ease disassembly, but then you will be back to square one come reassembly time). I used pliers to continue turning the bolts maybe 1.5 more rotations after they touch the frame, so they are digging into the frame, but they will come out. You can wiggle the water pump assembly out of the head while you do this, to help get some angle on the bolts as they squeeze out of the head.
  4. Once the bolts are out, reinsert the water pump assembly into the head.
  5. Now remove the outer painted housing 19221-MGS-D10 partially, still holding it within the frame and remove dowel pin 90704-MGS-D30
  6. Separate and remove center plate 19231-MGS-D30 from the outer painted housing
  7. Now you can remove the outer housing by rotating it down and forwards out of the frame
  8. Now remove the inner water pump assembly from the head and remove it from the engine.
I found an oil leak I didn't even detect was there. There was a fair amount of corrosion as you can see in the attached pictures, however I can't tell whether that is due to wrong coolant type (bought this bike with green silicated coolant in it, hence why I am doing this job, and replacing it with genuine honda coolant) or just due to age. I am replacing all three cooling hoses, flushing the radiator, and replacing all the water pump O rings, copper washers, and gaskets.

List of part numbers:
Water pump:
TWO - GASKET, WP BODY 19226-MGS-D30 - $7.75EA - EX JAPAN
O-RING, 22X2(ARAI) 91301-GK1-003 - $4.35
O-RING, 48X2.6 91301-MGS-D30 - $4.45 - EX JAPAN
TWO - WASHER, 6.5MM 90463-ML7-000 - $4.00

Thermostat:
RUBBER, THERMOSTAT 19305-KV3-010 - $8.30
O-RING, 30MM 91356-425-003 - $7.75
HOSE, WATER BYPASS 19322-MGS-D30 - $14.95 - EX JAPAN

Radiator:
HOSE, RADIATOR UPPER 19505-MGS-D30 - $14.40 - EX JAPAN
HOSE, RADIATOR LOWER 19506-MGS-D30 - $21.35 - EX JAPAN
TUBE, 5.3X580 95005-55001-20M - $28.45
TUBE, 5.3X250 95005-55001-20M - $28.45
THREE - CLIP, TUBE(B10) 95002-02100 - $2.50EA
PACKING, RESERVE TANK 19107-GET-000 - $5.95 - EX JAPAN
Many thanks for taking the trouble to put up this very useful post. The positioning etc of the pump is exactly the same with regard to the frame as my X-Adv. Same chassis and motor of course so it is good to have this resource if I ever need to do the job.
 
I was surprised by the corrosion. Also, how many miles on the bike?

Also, a very common "trick" for motorcycle repair shops is to unbolt the engine in the front and drop it a few inches to get access.
I'm overhauling the cooling system, including replacing the water pump seals. I can't get the pump far enough out of the engine to remove the mounting bolts, because it just hits the frame.
  • Has anyone had any success with this job before?
  • And does anyone have the torque values for the water pump housing?
Page 8-13 of the workshop manual is where I am, that's all the information I have at the momen
 
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