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T-clocs

Yeah, it is a great and useful list, but I, too, thought that was just ridiculous as a 'pre-ride' checklist when my Idaho STAR class covered it. It should be broken out into probably 3 general categories, IMO:

1) Pre-ride/daily,
2) Weekly,
3) Monthly

That's the break-out we settled on for the fleet at work at the time, and I thought it worked out best. That way, if you haven't ridden/driven that machine in a while, you do it all. If you just got out to pick up a gallon of milk or some parts and are now leaving again, you don't have to put the thing on a lift and spend 20 minutes on it just to get back home/to the shop. In a fleet context, I had my shop guys go and physically do the monthlies every month no matter what, just because our fleet usage was highly variable/seasonal. That may or may not be warranted for a personal-use vehicle.
 
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I think it is one of those things that after you have done it a few times, it is mostly a visual inspection. If my bikes sit more than a week I check the air pressure.
 
Nice list.
We all know to check the chain tension with our weight on the bike, right? Either sit on it and have someone else check it (just how much do you trust your ol' lady?) or lay across the seat and hang upside down to check it yourself.
 
Nice list.
We all know to check the chain tension with our weight on the bike, right? Either sit on it and have someone else check it (just how much do you trust your ol' lady?) or lay across the seat and hang upside down to check it yourself.

First I've ever heard of that. I just checked all my service manuals for my chain driven bikes (NC700X, RM250, and DRZ400SM) and none of them mention having someone sit on the bike. Where did you hear that?


Thanks,

WGW
 
Nice list.
We all know to check the chain tension with our weight on the bike, right? Either sit on it and have someone else check it (just how much do you trust your ol' lady?) or lay across the seat and hang upside down to check it yourself.

The factory slack spec (1-3/8" US) is given with the bike unladen on the side stand (at rest). There is no need to do as you suggest unless you change the suspension height because the factory has already done the work. If you have lowered the suspension, the correct slack would be less than the spec and if you have raised the suspension it would be more. In these cases, you would need to remove the shock linkage and adjust for minimal slack with the swing-arm pivot in line with the two sprockets and then reassemble and determine the amount of slack at rest. Afterwards, you could just use the new at rest slack spec.
 
Nice list.
We all know to check the chain tension with our weight on the bike, right?

**EDIT: Beemer and I were typing at once, so I'll leave only this part of my reply:
(psst! This is why chain tension specs are always with the bike on the kickstand; so that you're not _required_ to have a helper available)
 
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