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Tire wear

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I agree except that I don't change my own tires, my local shop does, and it costs me $120 labor to get tires changed. Changing them more often just costs me more in the long run over multiple sets of tires.

example in 100,000 miles,

at 6500 per set I would have to pay for 15 tire changes @ 120.00 = $1800

at 8600 per set I'd only have to pay for 11 tire changes @ 120.00 = $1320

I once did the math in another thread including tire prices and it came out.... as dduelin pointed out.... that running Michelins for 100,000 miles vs Shinkos for 100,000 miles would only cost me $300 more to run the Michelins, which I consider a really, really good handling tire in all weather.

BTW looking back in just this thread...

Greg C:
6500 miles (close to done he says)

Tx Boot Scoot:
Original rear tire - 4,834 miles
Raven 009 rear - 8,237 miles
Raven 009 rear - (current) 700 miles with still roughly 7,000 miles left (so he's figuring 7700 miles)

GLC:
OEM tires lasted 4000 miles
Shinko Raven 009's ..... will likely only get about 5k

1984 VF1100S: At 5,740 miles my 2022 NC 750X DCT has 2/32 of tread left

Lee_0123:
The original Metzlers lasted about the same as Ferret's did. After the Metzlers I switched to Michelins Road 5 tires. I'm getting the same amount of wear on my Michelin Road 5 tires as Ferret.

So, it's not just me. that doesn't get good mileage out of the tires on this bike.
I changed the front deck today and I paid 20€ for the deck replacement!
 
I changed the front deck today and I paid 20€ for the deck replacement!
Both tires installed/balanced for 80$ CDN so roughly 54€. This price if I bring the wheels at the shop.
 
My tires are mounted and balanced for $0 since I do my own. Saves time, too, not having to drive to town and wait at dealer.
 
My tires are mounted and balanced for $0 since I do my own. Saves time, too, not having to drive to town and wait at dealer.
I would do this too if I did a lot of mileage and had a garage. How many changes do the tools need to pay for themselves?
 
I would do this too if I did a lot of mileage and had a garage. How many changes do the tools need to pay for themselves?
I’m wild guessing that I’ve changed 30-40 tires with $300 of tools. So my tool cost is below $10 per tire and falling. I’m changing car, van, and trailer tires in addition to motorcycle tires. Additional savings come from reducing expenses driving into town to tire shops and back. I do still have per tire recycling costs, as would anyone else. New motorcycle tires are delivered to my house, often with no shipping charge or sales tax.
 
I’m wild guessing that I’ve changed 30-40 tires with $300 of tools. So my tool cost is below $10 per tire and falling. I’m changing car, van, and trailer tires in addition to motorcycle tires. Additional savings come from reducing expenses driving into town to tire shops and back. I do still have per tire recycling costs, as would anyone else. New motorcycle tires are delivered to my house, often with no shipping charge or sales tax.
I've got a HF tire changer that I've changed probably 10 or so tires so far so my costs are coming down as well. I store it in my garage attic and bring it down and bolt it to the garage floor when I need it. So far the tires have mostly been "GT" tires for my Vision and Pilot Road 4's and 5's for friends ST1300's. The pilot's have been decent to mount, but the GT's have been very stiff walled which are much harder to mount. Hoping the tires for my NC are not so stiff.

One thing I wonder about though, is that the rims on the NC do not have a pronounced "lip" so I wonder how that will affect the dismount/mount process.
 
I've got a HF tire changer that I've changed probably 10 or so tires so far so my costs are coming down as well. I store it in my garage attic and bring it down and bolt it to the garage floor when I need it. So far the tires have mostly been "GT" tires for my Vision and Pilot Road 4's and 5's for friends ST1300's. The pilot's have been decent to mount, but the GT's have been very stiff walled which are much harder to mount. Hoping the tires for my NC are not so stiff.

One thing I wonder about though, is that the rims on the NC do not have a pronounced "lip" so I wonder how that will affect the dismount/mount process.
I use an HF changer with Mojoblocks and a Mojobar. I don’t find the NC wheels any different than other wheels when it comes to mounting tires. You’re right, stiff GT type tires are the most difficult to mount. The regular Pilot Road 4s were soft sidewalled and easiest to mount of the NC type tires. I say if a person can mount a Goldwing front tire, they can mount about anything, be it car, truck, trailer, etc. Passenger car radial tires with high profiles are the easiest to mount.
 
I use an HF changer with Mojoblocks and a Mojobar. I don’t find the NC wheels any different than other wheels when it comes to mounting tires. You’re right, stiff GT type tires are the most difficult to mount. The regular Pilot Road 4s were soft sidewalled and easiest to mount of the NC type tires. I say if a person can mount a Goldwing front tire, they can mount about anything, be it car, truck, trailer, etc. Passenger car radial tires with high profiles are the easiest to mount.
How difficult is the Goldwing rear tire compared to the front?
 
How difficult is the Goldwing rear tire compared to the front?
Not a whole lot better, but the wider width of the rear tire/rim makes it a little easier for me to get the opposite side tire bead pushed down into the rim well (if that makes any sense). For the Goldwing tires I need to use wood blocks and/or my NoMar clamp to keep the bead pushed down in the well while I lever the opposite side over the rim.
 
How difficult is the Goldwing rear tire compared to the front?
The Vision spec'd the exact same tires as the goldwing. I think they were fairly equal to mount other than the GT spec being stiffer on the rear and a bit harder. Sunshine was always good, having the tire as warm as possible!
 
I use an HF changer with Mojoblocks and a Mojobar. I don’t find the NC wheels any different than other wheels when it comes to mounting tires. You’re right, stiff GT type tires are the most difficult to mount. The regular Pilot Road 4s were soft sidewalled and easiest to mount of the NC type tires. I say if a person can mount a Goldwing front tire, they can mount about anything, be it car, truck, trailer, etc. Passenger car radial tires with high profiles are the easiest to mount.
I have the Mojo blocks and bar as well, the Mojobar really helps!
 
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I wonder how Goldwing or Vision tires compare to VTX1800 tires (mostly the rear). We don't have changing equipment apart from tire irons and a 5-gallon bucket, but the rear tire on that VTX is SO difficult we just don't even try any more.
 
My tires are mounted and balanced for $0 since I do my own. Saves time, too, not having to drive to town and wait at dealer.
I change and balance my own tires, they want 90 bucks a wheel here in NYC, doing my own work has mot then paid for the cost of the NoMar tire changer and then some plus knowing everything is done properly and being able to check out the bearings and seals is a bonus. It's my preferred type of therapy.
 
I change and balance my own tires, they want 90 bucks a wheel here in NYC, doing my own work has mot then paid for the cost of the NoMar tire changer and then some plus knowing everything is done properly and being able to check out the bearings and seals is a bonus. It's my preferred type of therapy.
In 2010 I moved to East TN from Florida. I rented a condo with a small 2 car garage so I bought the Nomar Cycle Hill changer with the Nomar mount/dismount bar, a Marc Parnes Static Balancer, and an Ingersoll Rand Twin Stack air compressor. The total cost in 2010 for everything needed to change my own tires was $820. To date I have installed 256 tires on our multiple bikes over he last 14 years. Counting friends tires I have reached nearly 300 changes.

Add in some cost for weights and lube and I'm pushing $3.71 installation cost per tire change since 2010 not counting the electrical cost for the compressor. At $30 installation cost per tire that is a savings of $6,730. At $40 install cost the savings would be $9,290. Many's the time I've pulled into the garage after a ride and installed a set of tires on my or my wife's bike in preparation of the next day's ride. The convenience is priceless. My wife and I have ridden our bikes over 300K miles since moving to TN.
 
at 5200 miles the rescue Dunlop gpr300 was down on the wear bars, spooned on a Michelin road 5 today using the trusty HF tire mounter.
Dunlop says not to use the GPR300 but don't give a reason why. for a $100usd tire (180 mounted on the bike while mid trip, southern powersport Honda Chattanooga for the win!)
it was a good tire, good stick nice even wear, if I don't get substantial more miles out of this Michelin I will go back to the GPR300.
 
Just a report on the tire wear on the set of OEM Dunlops on my 2022 NC-750XDCT. At 6,244 miles the original Metzler Tourance tires were worn out, and as the OEM Metzler tires were discontinued I had OEM Dunlop D609 tires installed, and now the there is 8593 miles on the odometer, and the tires are worn out, according to the specifications pages on my bikes operator's manual. So the tires have worn out in 2,349 miles, though they are not worn square, and the side walls show some shagging. I shall ponder upon what to do next.
 
I'm at 8,044 miles on my latest set of Michelin Road 5's and they are within probably 750 miles of being toast. Already ordered another set.
 
update...just had another set of Road 5's installed at 55,135 miles. This is the 8th set of tires on my 21 DCT. I was down to the wear bars, might have gotten another 500 miles out of them. Tech said bearings were smooth, and brake pads still had plenty of life

so as far as my tire wear goes that makes:

Metzler Tourance Next 7,130 miles
Michelin Road 5 8,579 miles
Pirelli Angel GT 7,696 miles
Shinko Raven 09 6,478 miles
Pirelli Angel GT 8,326 miles
Michelin Road 5 8,642 miles
Michelin Road 5 8,304 miles
 
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