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Top Box recipe (photos)

StratTuner

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[HERE] is a descent top box for the NC. Right now it's $43 (no shipping cost it says). I've ordered one.

2017 June - [HERE] is the current top box for cheap. Oxford bought up the other model and sells it for $125! (yikes)

[HERE] are the support arms to mount it to: $112

Together, they make a good setup. I've used both now for about a year and find them well made, durable, and a good value.

The one structural flaw they have are the forward "tabs" that fit in the front slot of the paltform. Those tabs broke off, so I replaced them with two pieces of flat bar pop-riveted to the bottom of the case.

(Photos below)
(Disclaimer: No affiliation with any of the companies)

topbox43.jpg

giviarmsnc.jpg
 
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While I'm at it... lets give a special mention to the LED strip light that functions as:
- running light (if you have the resistor connected)
- brake light (amazingly bright)
- turn signals
- cost: $20 [HERE]

(photos are not of my ride!)
brakesig1.jpg
brakesig2.jpg

I have mine mounted to the platform of the topbox I mentioned earlier. I've adapted the two top boxes I use to fit the platform, so the brake light strip works no matter what box I've mounted.

I also added [THIS] to light up the license plate after replacing the tail light bulb with a RED LED. The OEM light is white and appears red through the red plastic but shines white down on the plate.. I didn't want the RED LED to shine red down on the plate.
lplight.jpg

The wiring for all this goes in through the plastic access panel above the rear wheel. It's a pretty clean install. Behind that, you find all the wiring that makes the tail light, turn indicators, work.

The light is actually meant for a car, but it was easy to cut it down and zip tie it to the license plate frame I use. (Takes some engineering, but that's the fun part for me.)
 
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WP_20140926_08_56_27_Pro.jpg This is my 37 liter coocase set up with keyless entrée I don't have the wiring set up yet on this bike it does have little lights the light up in the back of the box but they are in significant I need to upgrade them with something brighter. I don't like top boxes a whole lot but its nice to have and doesn't look to big for the bike.
 
View attachment 26920 This is my 37 liter coocase set up with keyless entrée I don't have the wiring set up yet on this bike it does have little lights the light up in the back of the box but they are in significant I need to upgrade them with something brighter. I don't like top boxes a whole lot but its nice to have and doesn't look to big for the bike.
I've wired one of these cheap top boxes with LED strip lights. That worked out well.
I'll save that how-to for the next installment of the top box recipe post. [emoji4]

Sent from my SCH-I545 using Tapatalk
 
Don't the Monorack arms need a base plate to mount the box on?
The cheap box comes with a base that makes a sort of quick release for the top box.

I bolted that to the existing plate mount holes built onto the arms. Four 1/4" bolts hold it securely.

Sent from my SCH-I545 using Tapatalk
 
No, but I will tonight!... (because you asked.):)

I'm home now (in California), and I took photos as promised.. possibly more than anyone wants to see, but here goes...

Here's the over view....

overview.jpg


and the rear view... (the idea is to get closer and closer and then see how it all fits)

rearview.jpg


front view. (57121 is my I.B. membership #.)

topboxfront1.jpg

if you open the top box, you'll find a single wing nut (with an anti vibration bolt on top) that lets you take off the whole box. (the zip ties are just extra precaution. They go down through the top box and around the platform.)

wingnut.jpg

(ten characters added...)
 
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OK... I'll do this in separate posts because that add 10 characters warning keeps coming up!

If you remove the wing nut and bolt (and zip ties), the box lifts up off the post. Notice the two pieces of aluminum flat bar the go in to the open slot at the front of the platform. It secures the box pretty well... and, as I mentioned, the original tabs the went into the slot do break off.... best to replace them with flat bar.

Also notice the strip of LED lights along the back edge of the plat form. I mentioned these in a previous post. They are very effective and one of the best things to come from this whole effort. They are attached with two zip ties, and the electrical wires follow the arms down to the access panel just above the rear wheel.
openwide2.jpg

Once you lift off the top box, taking the flat bar ends out of the slot, the platform looks like this. The top box is wedged on the tab/slot arrangement and seated on the threaded post. Easy OFF/ON.
platformback.jpg
 
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the platform has holes for four bolts that don't match up with the bolt holes in the arms, so a few more inches of flat bar brings the two together.
Here, you can see the slot the flat bar tabs fits into. The arms bolt to the flat bar, and the flat bar bolts to the platform. It's very sturdy this way.
bolteddown.jpg
You can see the wires that make the LED brake light strip work go off the arm and into the motorcycle here. Yes, I drilled a small hole to accomodate that. Works pretty well.

The GIVI arms are fiercely strong. I had made my own from parts, but it was no where near as good as the GIVI arms at $112. As you might guess, I like making my own stuff... but not always.

You remove the bolts that hold on the grab rails, slide the GIVI arms under them, then put the bolts back in. These are half inch bolts, four of them, that go directly into the tubular frame. It's about as stable and strong as it gets!
suparmsside1.jpg

I hope the photography helps explain how it all fits. The top box was a huge boon to my life since I have to carry my technician's back pack and tools with me every day, site to site, for work. It might not improve the NC's sporty aesthetic, but it sure is handy!.... and not terribly expensive with the items I've used.
Thanks for your attention.
 
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I don't know why all the photos are showing up as "attachment". Sometimes I really dislike the editor on this forum.

Went back and used "Advanced Edit" on all the posts, and that made the photos show up in line.

Post Photo shoot Note:

It took less than 15 minutes to put the saddle bag frame, saddle bags, and top box back on...
might have taken 20 if I'd bothered to take off the home made fairings.
 
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and another thing...

The leather saddlebags I use are [THESE] from Jafrum.com. $59 as of this writing.

The set I have are first generation, and they're pretty rought cut, not very well made. I had to re-enforce them with pop rivets along the badly sewn seams. Still... they're darned good bags for the money...real leather... and I attach them with QR (Quick Release) straps on top of the pillion seat to make gassing up easier.

Recently, I bought a second pair (I liked them that much!) on sale and was amazed at the difference.... they look like they were made by an entirely different company!

The leather is much hight quality and lined now, and the seams are much stronger....
This is the same old picture Jafrum always uses. They need to update it since the new gen bags look MUCH better.
sbags1jafrum.jpg
 
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Obvious to us all, but wanted to thank you for the post and pictures. Well done, looks great, and I will borrow pieces of your ideas. Thanks!
 
Obvious to us all, but wanted to thank you for the post and pictures. Well done, looks great, and I will borrow pieces of your ideas. Thanks!

Thank you...seeing the "view" count climb is fun...but it's really good to read comments.... makes it all worth while.
 
Did you make that fairing?

Yes, I did make them. 'Couldn't find any to buy, and can you imagine what they would cost if you did!

Part of the fairing discussion is [HERE]. (with more photos of course!)

The fairing is made of 3/4" pvc pipe, plastic from RubberMaid brand waste baskets ($4 at Walmart),
and ... zip ties.

Version 1 [HERE] was flat.
V2 was more aerodynamic. (creased horizontally in the middle)

They are very light weight and entirely water proof
.... and they gave me a place to hang a cup holder (also made from RubberMaid plastic and zip ties). RubberMaid plastic can be cut with hand scissors, and you can drill a hole in it with a screw driver. It's very easy to work with.

three zip ties hold it on each side, six total.
You can take them off/on in very short order.
It's stable and doesn't flex much even at 70+ MPH.

I had to order the right/left "Honda" logos from Amazon.

Someone once said they look "ridiculous". Maybe so, but they keep the wind off my knees when it's cold.
 
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