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Tyre mileage on nc750

Simmo

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Hi, I’m considering purchasing nc750, can you tell me what mileage to expect from tyres. I just test drove one today and the bike had only done a 1000 miles from new and the tyre was on the limit. The tyre was a Dunlop, would other tyres fair better on the bike, I’d appreciate your advice
 
Welcome to the forum.

The following are just wild guesses on my part. The stock Dunlops are probably the worst for street tyre life. Expect roughly 3000 miles. There are many other tyre choices for the NC, and they can run from somewhere around 6,000 to 18,000 miles life depending on riding style, tyre chosen, and whether front or rear. As usual, “your mileage may vary.”
 
Bought my NC brand new on June 1st.
I just replaced my tires after 8000km (5000miles). Front was still good but I replaced both tires for Shinko E-705.
Just note that after 5000km (3100miles), the rear was at the wear indicator. I was able to push it to 8000km, but at that point, I had a completly bald 2" strip on the rear.

Hope this helps!
 
I just passed 3000 miles on my 2021 the other day. My stock tires are the Metzler's. These are all street miles. I don't ride in the dirt unless I miss a corner. I just checked and I'm at 4/32' tread left front and rear. I started with 5/32" on the front and 8/32" on the rear. When these are gone, probably in the 5-6000 range I will put on some Michelin's either PR4 or Road 5's.
 
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The DCT will make everything last longer. I only tap the brakes 100 feet before the traffic light usually. And off road, I rarely use the brake at all. It is the nature of using the engine braking on the DCT. After a while the throttle becomes your primary control. Miles and miles of dirt roads means almost no braking at all.
You should rarely use your engine as a source of braking by downshifting, according to the owner's manual.
It costs a lot more to repair a transmission than buy a set of brake pads.
The experts say to only use engine braking on long descents that could cause the brakes to overheat.
 
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You should rarely use your engine as a source of braking.
The wear on the clutch and drivetrain far exceeds the wear on brake pads.
It costs a lot more to repair a transmission than buy a set of brake pads.
Only use engine braking on long descents that could cause the brakes to overheat.
Totally disagree. How does engine braking wear out a clutch or result in need for transmission repair?
 
You should rarely use your engine as a source of braking.
The wear on the clutch and drivetrain far exceeds the wear on brake pads.

False.

Totally disagree. How does engine braking wear out a clutch or result in need for transmission repair?

I disagree, too. ESPECIALLY on the low revving engine on these bikes, and not to mention the DCT having parameters that must be met before it will let you downshift. And on a manual shift bike, if you are rev-matching, it's no different gearing down and using engine braking than it is gearing up and accelerating.
 
I think it’s a CYA thing for Honda. The other issue is engine braking increases the revs which causes increased wear internally.
 
I'm not the engineer, just the messenger.
Why doesn't Honda suggest to use the engine for braking and save the brake pads in the owner's manual?
They only suggest to downshift and use engine braking on long descents that could overheat the brakes.
 
Some interesting reading on the engineering side for and against engine braking in both auto and manual trans vehicles:


I always used rev matching engine braking on my Goldwing.
Maybe I'll start using the paddle shifters to aid braking on my DCT.
My mind is open.
 
I usually use both brakes when stopping or slowing (except in some cornering situations where I use rear brake only) and don't use much engine braking, but that's just how I've always ridden. Unless you have a ton of engine braking you can slow down or stop quicker using the brakes imo. I've always used the clutch when shifting manual clutch bikes too. Again, just how I've always ridden. Clutches and brakes. Figured they put them on there for a reason lol.

Got no issue with how others ride their bikes however., and a prime reason why I rarely buy used bikes.
 
The worst wear on a clutch, on a manual bike, is starting off from a dead stop. Once the clutch is otherwise engaged, it shouldn't be affected/worn/etc, whether you are engine braking or accelerating. Clutch wear is caused by slippage. You have to slip the clutch to take off from a stop on a manual shift bike. Some slippage can occur between gears, going up or down, I suppose, but it's minimal.

Most supersport bikes, like for example my old 2007 Kawasaki ZX10R, come equipped with slipper clutches from the OEM. These are designed for high speed, high rpm engine braking on the track, street, wherever you want to do it. The clutch is designed to slip as opposed to locking the rear tire up when gearing down at super high rpms.

It's funny, someone posted in this track day group I'm in on Facebook last week with a picture taken of them running off the track with a caption talking about him forgetting to slip the clutch going into a turn. He was riding a 2009 CBR600RR, and apparently Honda didn't feel the need to put a slipper clutch in that particular bike, which is crazy to me, but you know Honda....cheap and reliable. So he forgot to feather the clutch gearing down going into the turn, rear tire locked up, freaked him out, and he straightened out the turn off into the grass.

Anyways, I do not really know the mechanics of the DCT well enough to know how this affects the DCT, but I'd imagine there's little to no wear on the clutch systems by taking off and shifting gears, due to having 2 separate clutch systems interchanging. So, I guess it's possible, clutch wear on a DCT bike may just be drastically less than that of manual shift bikes.
 
I figure if anyone's gonna wear out a clutch pack in a DCT bike, it's gonna be me on my track NC. It only gets ridden at the track and spends it's time shifting every gear near redline, and downshifting each gear as early as the DCT computer will allow me to do so. So we'll see how long it lasts, because I'm not planning on tracking any other bike for quite a while.
 
I think the thing to remember is: When you slow down with brakes, the energy of motion is transferred into heat in the brake pads and rotors, wearing away a bit of the material. When you engine break, you are dissipating the energy of motion by pumping air through the cylinders via a restricted orifice (intake/exhaust manifold, valves, etc), heating up the air. You are NOT wearing away the material of the clutch plates like you do brake pads.
 
I think the thing to remember is: When you slow down with brakes, the energy of motion is transferred into heat in the brake pads and rotors, wearing away a bit of the material. When you engine break, you are dissipating the energy of motion by pumping air through the cylinders via a restricted orifice (intake/exhaust manifold, valves, etc), heating up the air. You are NOT wearing away the material of the clutch plates like you do brake pads.
Yed, that is mentioned in the article I linked to.
But you forgot the part about the heated air transferring its heat into the engine, coolant, and oil.
So the cooling system would absorb the heat that would have gone into the air and brake pads from using brakes only.
It may be insignificant amounts of heat for the cooling system to handle, but the heat has to go somewhere.
 
You should rarely use your engine as a source of braking by downshifting, according to the owner's manual.
Can you quote the statement that you should rarely use the engine for slowing?
Because on page 13 of the NC700 manual, under "Engine Braking" I'm seeing the following (emphasis mine):

"Engine braking helps slow your motorcycle down when you release the throttle. For further slowing action, downshift to a lower gear. Use engine braking with intermittent use of the brakes to reduce speed when descending long, steep slopes."

I am interpreting this to mean always engine brake, downshift for better effect, and make sure not to cook your brakes during prolonged braking periods.


I think the thing to remember is: When you slow down with brakes, the energy of motion is transferred into heat in the brake pads and rotors, wearing away a bit of the material. When you engine break, you are dissipating the energy of motion by pumping air through the cylinders via a restricted orifice (intake/exhaust manifold, valves, etc), heating up the air. You are NOT wearing away the material of the clutch plates like you do brake pads.
I'm not sure the heating up/compressing of the air contributes significantly to the energy dissipation. Depending on valve timing, the pressure differential is going to be very small or even zero. Remember the same mass of air is decompressed to (approximately, based on valve timing) the same volume on the power(less) stroke, most of the energy put into the compression is regained during the expansion. The majority of engine braking is correctly noted above as coming from the pump force required to draw in the air from the manifold with a closed throttle, as well as the small component coming from friction in the drivetrain.
This is different from big trucks that have actual engine brakes ("jake brakes"), where the exhaust valves are opened before the power(less) stroke to vent the compressed air to atmosphere.

But you forgot the part about the heated air transferring its heat into the engine, coolant, and oil.
So the cooling system would absorb the heat that would have gone into the air and brake pads from using brakes only.
It may be insignificant amounts of heat for the cooling system to handle, but the heat has to go somewhere.
Assumptions:
Compression isentropic
Air represented by an ideal diatomic gas, therefore Cp/Cv = K = 1.4
Ambient air temperature is 293K or 20C
Intake air conservatively assumed to be ambient temperature. In reality, due to reduced pressure through closed throttle, intake temperature is below ambient.

Known:
V1 / V2 = 10.7 (Compression Ratio)

T2 / T1 = (V1 / V2)^(K-1)
T2 = 293 (10.7)^(0.4)
T2 = 756K or 483C

Considering the heat of combustion is generally 700C or greater, and usually above 1000C, you're reducing the thermal load on the cooling system.


And no no no no no, the engine doesn't have to absorb "the heat that would have gone into the brake pads from using brakes only." The brake heat is the dissipation of kinetic energy as thermal energy due to friction. No friction, no heat. Engine braking relies on pump force to transfer energy, not friction. Different processes, different energy conversions.
 
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