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Valve Adjustment Plug on Left Case

Txagharrison

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Has anyone else had trouble getting the large plug on the left crankcase out to rotate the engine? I'm at my wits end here. Honda Plug.jpg
 
No, I have not. Some 99% isopropanol or electrical parts cleaner and then JB Weld should let you get a solid connection between a wrench (probably _not_ a screwdriver) and that bolt.

***EDIT: At this point you might have to make some additional cuts (like with a file) outward from the center hole, in order to get good mechanical lock between the JB and the wrench.
 
This is probably not helpful now but I remember it being difficult to remove. I just put a hex bit on it and used a breaker bar. I think your problem is not being able to apply enough torque, and all these solution attempts look like they would fail with the needed torque to loosen the bolt. It looks like there still might be a little bite in the hex pattern, maybe you can still use a breaker bar on it.

Heat and PB blaster is always my first go-to. Though you may have gone beyond that at this point.
 
Sometimes in the past (thankfully not often) I found that a sharp tap of a hammer on an item as distorted as that, can break its hold. Obviously place an old socket over it to avoid hitting the crankcase. Possibly also try it again when the motor is up to temperature.
 
This has come several times prior. This chisel hammer work the edge of the cap technique in the YouTube link which does take some finesse........but.......it’s the preferred method and does work:


THE VIDEO shows 5 techniques the chisel is the one we want for this problem. Obviously the video is a nut. The cap is similar.......the Honda cap is much softer, so thats where the technique comes in play.

The technique does not need a super sharp chisel. A 5# hammer is not required. The goal is not to cut the cap. The goal is tap the edge of the cap counter clockwise and break it free. This is tap tap tap. Once you catch the edge it will not take that much effort. If the cap cuts or chips......cho another spot. Care not to catch the case part, just the cap part. There’s a slight corrosion on the threads or stiction/friction. Once it breaks free spin it out by hand.

If its still confusing :
Another explanation is ....pretend the cap is clock. The minute hand is a 12:00. Your going to tap on the tip of the minute knocking it back towards 11:00. The chisel catches the edge of the cap instead of the minute hand.

edit
A flat end punch can be used ......placed in the direction of the red arrow..........tap tap tap it will break free.E060A174-10B5-48E9-90E4-6328BD13D612.jpeg
 

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Griff brought up a couple good points I had assumed, but which I should not have:

1) Make sure the engine is good and hot when you try to remove that plug.
2) Give it a sharp rap (which is very different from a heavy blow) from a not-heavy hammer. (Heavy hammer blows may crack the whole side cover.)

I still think you're going to have to JB Weld something in there, but _maybe_ not if you do the above 2 things.
 
Thanks folks for your suggestions. Tonight I'm going to try the Showkey method of tapping the outside of it - and I am quite sure I'm going in the right direction, I've been wrenching for over 50 years. The only other time I've had anything stuck this tight was a frame bolt when I was trying to install frame sliders on my 2007 ZX6R. Spent three days on that one. I've got a ride planned Saturday - if I can't get it removed by tomorrow I'm going to re-install the valve tappet cover, radiator, re-fill it with coolant, and work on that plug before trying again to adjust the valves. In the end if I really screw it up, I can remove the entire alternator cover and rotate the crankshaft, but I'll still have to deal with the plug from one side or the other. Crazy!
 
EEEEEEEK! ....... I'll keep that picture etched in my mind. When valve adjustment come around, I'll soak it with PB blaster the night before.....I suppose.
Is this typical for said cap???
 
Hey Frog, when you adjust your valves, try removing that cap first before you pull the radiator and everything. Better yet, head out to the garage now, spray it with some PB Blaster, put an allen wrench in it and see if it will turn with a gentle tug or two. Let me know how it goes. What's weird is that I adjusted the valves 8,000 miles and about a year ago. I did have some trouble getting the plug out, but re-installed it very gently because it was difficult to remove. I did not use any never seize. This time the hex key stripped, I've tapped, dremeled, heated, drilled, screwed and still working it. ugh.
 
EEEEEEEK! ....... I'll keep that picture etched in my mind. When valve adjustment come around, I'll soak it with PB blaster the night before.....I suppose.
Is this typical for said cap???
I would be pre-emptive and loosen the plug now, coat the threads with a bit of anti seize or silicone grease, and re-install it with minimal torque.
The O-ring does the sealing, not the thread tightness.
Using the correct tools makes the job much more failure-proof.
I use a hex socket and ratchet.
Make sure the hex is fully seated in the cap before attempting to turn the cap.
If the cap won't budge, try to slightly tighten the cap before trying to remove it.
If that's a no go, try an impact driver with light taps.
I would never use a hex key to try and loosen (or tighten) that cap.
 
You are right Bigbird, if I'd have used a hex key on an impact driver to begin with, I wouldn't have this problem. I have an impact, but no hex wrenches for it.
 
Success! Using the Showkey method. It took about 15 minutes of progressively harder rapping, but when it began to turn it felt like hitting a home run!

Now to adjust the valves, change the oil and get back to riding - after I replace the plug (with a new one) and "eck" it to death.

Thanks for all the suggestions and encouragement folks,

Jim.
 
^^^^^^^ , well done!. It's always nice to have knowledgeable forum members to assist when there's an issue.
Also, thank you for the responses to my post.....much appreciated.
 
Congrats.

I’ve wondered before whether the electrical flux near that plug has an adverse impact on the material or thread joint there.

These remind me a bit of the drain plugs on the tractors (agricultural). There is NO WAY to remove them without destroying them and many times the oil pans, too, unless the pan and plug are both HOT; not warm, HOT. You really have no choice but to drain the oil at the end of the day.

I can say this plug on mine was quite snug the first time, but since then it’s been fine.
 
I had no issue removing the plug when I did my first oil change at 1k km.
I removed the plug very early only to lube the plug threads and prevent an issue at 20k km when I do my first valve check.
I suggest every owner remove the plug way ahead of schedule and lube the threads and O-ring with silicone grease.
And do NOT over-tighten. Just snug is all it needs.
 
I’ve got one like yours I had to chisel it out and buy a new one at about £24.
I should have used my Wera keys but knackered it before I saw the light.
I have in my toolbox a chisel specifically for knocking things off like the above and nuts etc. I have now had to use it 3 times and it hasn’t let me down yet.
 
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