Valve Adjustment Step-By-Step

[Deleted member 1183]

I remember when I was being taught to do valve clearances on a Z1, the mechanic who was respected as such and a friend, gave me a simple instruction regardless of engine type. He said "monitor the intake valve on the cylinder being adjusted. When it depresses (opens) fully and then starts to come back up, check for the TDC mark to line up on the stator. When the tdc mark lines up, the piston is on full compression. That is the time to check the clearances ".

I have used that rule of thumb ever since and see no reason why it should not apply to the NC also. I have not done my clearances yet though. That is a nasty habit I have cultivated with Hondas only. I first checked the clearances on my GL1800 at 35,000 miles. No adjustment was required.

 

[LA_NC700X]

Thanks guys.

Yes, I didn't realize until I was done and rode the bike for a day. I was planning to ride my bike this past week and park at airport for free, but I end up taking my car and pay $58.xx for parking for 4 days. I will be working on my bike again this morning and get everything correct.

It would be nice if original poster can go in and edit original post. Yes, I know page 3,4 talked about which marking is correct. So that we wouldn't have the next victims again...

Thank again guys. Valves adjustment is not too bad... This is my first time and somehow I miss reading the correct marking for the cam... Oh well, no damage done... I hope.

 

[Antarius]

LA,

I took photographs and drew arrows showing exactly which line to look at. Nonetheless I did add a sentence in to remind people to use the "lower" or rearmost index mark.

 

[LA_NC700X]

LA,

I took photographs and drew arrows showing exactly which line to look at. Nonetheless I did add a sentence in to remind people to use the "lower" or rearmost index mark.

Antarius, you did an excellent job! My bad that I didn't read every post until I was done and ride the bike for a day. Who would think the service manual can be wrong...

I readjust the valves this past saturday, and everything is all good.

Thank you Antarius so much! If it wasn't for you step by step instructions, I would never open up an engine! Always want to learn about how to adjust valves but afraid till now. Thank you!

 

[Antarius]

Good job!!

Screw type valves are too easy NOT to adjust!

Shim under/over bucket? Oh boy, that's a totally different story.

 

[LA_NC700X]

Good job!!

Screw type valves are too easy NOT to adjust!

Shim under/over bucket? Oh boy, that's a totally different story.

You got instructions for those? LOL

Shim type doesn't need to be adjusted as often, but I like to learn those some day...

 

[pismocycleguy]

What??? I did valves adjust this past saturday and I was using the top (2) mark. Yes, all the valves were super tight and none of my feeler can go in.

I been riding my bike around for over 50 miles and notice the valves seems louder than before... Power and everything else is the same. What kind of damage have I done?

I am very confuse here, the honda service manual say user the (2) and here everyone agree to use the (4)??

Please help!

My Official 2012 Honda NC700X/XD Service Manual states and shows to line up the marks on the cam sprockets with the lower cylinder head index line (4)

 

[670cc]

Good job!!

Screw type valves are too easy NOT to adjust!

Shim under/over bucket? Oh boy, that's a totally different story.

Shim over bucket, at least like on my old 70's and 80's bikes, was easy. Special tool popped out the shim, then you slid in a new shim. Clearance too tight/loose? You just put in the next size thinner/thicker shim and move on. Having a set of spare shims was the key, but adjustments were rarely needed.

Shim under bucket may be a hassle to adjust, what with removing the camshaft(s), but my GL1800 is over 50,000 miles and never needed an adjustment. Have only needed to check it once so far, per the schedule. It's pretty close to maintenance free.

My SeaDoo 4-Tec boat engines rev to 7200 RPM, and use roller rockers and hydraulics. They never need adjustment. I wish the bikes were that way.

 

[DanH]

My bike is due for its 16K service. I have decided on the following method.

1) Ride to HBP's dealership.
2) Wait
3) Pay him and ride away.

 

[LA_NC700X]

My bike is due for its 16K service. I have decided on the following method.

1) Ride to HBP's dealership.
2) Wait
3) Pay him and ride away.

Yes and no... The engine has to be cool for valves adjustment...

My reason for doing it myself because I always wanted to learn... And I did...

 

[Antarius]

I just hated the math for the shims!

Shim over bucket, at least like on my old 70's and 80's bikes, was easy. Special tool popped out the shim, then you slid in a new shim. Clearance too tight/loose? You just put in the next size thinner/thicker shim and move on. Having a set of spare shims was the key, but adjustments were rarely needed.

Shim under bucket may be a hassle to adjust, what with removing the camshaft(s), but my GL1800 is over 50,000 miles and never needed an adjustment. Have only needed to check it once so far, per the schedule. It's pretty close to maintenance free.

My SeaDoo 4-Tec boat engines rev to 7200 RPM, and use roller rockers and hydraulics. They never need adjustment. I wish the bikes were that way.

 

[670cc]

Yes and no... The engine has to be cool for valves adjustment...

My reason for doing it myself because I always wanted to learn... And I did...

Good point, LA. The Book says the engine must be below 95*F for valve adjustment, so it would be a very long wait if you rode in to the dealer.

 

[treybrad]

Good point, LA. The Book says the engine must be below 95*F for valve adjustment, so it would be a very long wait if you rode in to the dealer.

Oh really? I never actually caught a specific temperature in the book, just that it needed to be cold -- good catch 95*F... I'll need to wake up early to do mine if it comes due this summer!

trey

 

[bamamate]

Oh really? I never actually caught a specific temperature in the book, just that it needed to be cold -- good catch 95*F... I'll need to wake up early to do mine if it comes due this summer!

trey

You will have to wait until the dead of winter to do it.

 

[hojo]

on the manual of 2014 NC the valve interval is at 16k.

I am thinking that any older NC can do 16k as well. skip the 8k.

I have the Honda 2012-2014 Service Manual and it says to check at 8,000 miles, where did you get a 2014 specific manual?

 

[pismocycleguy]

on the manual of 2014 NC the valve interval is at 16k.

I am thinking that any older NC can do 16k as well. skip the 8k.

mreric, it would be helpful if you could post a copy of the manual page for the 2014 NC that you have showing the 16k recommendation.
Then everybody could use the information to make their own decisions.Thanks PCG

 

[kharli]

My Honda dealer said the 8000 mile one was unnecessary as feedback from other garages said they were all in spec , After 41000 miles I have had only one exhaust valve just out of spec. nc700x 2012

 

[Antarius]

I have had adjustments at 4000 and 8000, but none were needed at 16000.

My personal opinion is do the first adjustment at 8000, move them all to spot-on spec, and then don't touch them again for 16000 more miles. Just my opinion. I noticed after the initial movement at / up to 8000 miles they settled and stopped moving.

Second note:
Consider replacing your valve cover gasket AND your valve cover bolt washers at 16000 miles. Mine began to leak after this time frame.

 

[hojo]

I have had adjustments at 4000 and 8000, but none were needed at 16000.

My personal opinion is do the first adjustment at 8000, move them all to spot-on spec, and then don't touch them again for 16000 more miles. Just my opinion. I noticed after the initial movement at / up to 8000 miles they settled and stopped moving.

Second note:
Consider replacing your valve cover gasket AND your valve cover bolt washers at 16000 miles. Mine began to leak after this time frame.

Thanks, and ff I take off the valve cover, the valve cover gasket is going to be replaced, PERIOD.

 

[Antarius]

The gasket is rubber, not paper, so it's not always necessary but yeah, good idea.

Make sure you replace the bolt washers too.