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Valve Adjustment Step-By-Step

Hi all,

Just to let you know I've finally found the time to complete the maintenance.

It turns out that two problems knocked me sideways:

1) the February 2012 version of the Shop Manual incorrectly states to align the marks to the 'top notch' where it should read 'bottom notch' and
2) I didn't take into account that it takes 2 full revolutions of the flywheel for both cylinders to complete 1 full sequence.

Taking all of the above into account it suddenly all made sense and the rest of it was a doddle ...

Thank you very much everybody for all your kind help.

TJW
 
Thanks for the follow up, TJW. The discussion here will likely help others through the process, as well. I’m glad you accomplished the task, and I imagine you feel good about doing it yourself.
 
L.B.S. said:
duk2n, when you say: "Our European manual", is it the Official Honda Helm manual, or a Private Company/Seller's manual? :)

The only other manual that I know of that is not Helm, has the valve adjust info wrong.

If it doesn't look like this, it's not the Honda one that I can say, without seeing any other evidence to my knowledge.
Click to expand...

I just wanted to chime in here, that I had a copy of the WRONG manual and adjusted my 2012 nc700s by lining the camshaft mark with the upper line - set the valves accordingly and fired it up to a tremendous clatter of loose valves. I then came back here and found this information - readjusted by lining it up with the lower mark and now all is sweet. I wonder if these erroneous manuals floating around the internet have any other mistakes in them?

tl;dr Use the BOTTOM MARK in the camshaft inspection window
 
I think the inspection interval for the 2015 model and later is 16k miles. I was planning on looking at mine at 10k. I doubt they will be very much out of spec. I don’t hear the valves at all at 7k.
 
bvogel7475 said:
I think the inspection interval for the 2015 model and later is 16k miles. I was planning on looking at mine at 10k. I doubt they will be very much out of spec. I don’t hear the valves at all at 7k.
Click to expand...

Hearing the valves is better than not hearing the valves, as having them get too tight is way worse than too loose. But yes, waiting until 16K miles should be no problem.
 
bvogel7475 said:
I think the inspection interval for the 2015 model and later is 16k miles. I was planning on looking at mine at 10k. I doubt they will be very much out of spec. I don’t hear the valves at all at 7k.
Click to expand...

Happy valves are tappy valves, quiet valves could be a source of concern however a look-see at 10K is very reasonable. I doubt you will find clearances so tight as to be detrimental to the engine. Honda gives very conservative clearances.
 
dduelin said:
Happy valves are tappy valves, quiet valves could be a source of concern however a look-see at 10K is very reasonable. I doubt you will find clearances so tight as to be detrimental to the engine. Honda gives very conservative clearances.
Click to expand...

My valves got a touch louder after I did my first valve service. I found my valves were on the tight side from the factory. Everything's been smooth sailing so far, we'll see how round two goes

'16/17 MY Helm Manual owner here confirming the service interval is indeed 16k miles for the valves. Amongst the best sub-$50 investments I've made in my bike. I think I got it for $35.

This thread is actually the one that convinced me to get the book, and eventually sign up for an account here.
 
Best 'how to guide' ever!! Thank you so much from London England. You should write a book - your writing is superb. I managed to do this correctly the 3rd time but only because of your excellent instructions. Brilliant :)
 
I'm no wizard when it comes to wrenching, but I sure do love doing it. Every job takes me a long time since I see it as a chance to perfect the gift of patience. I've learned to slow down and make sure I'm not missing something.
Having a guide like this, with just the right amount of hand-holding, but not too much: so good! No condescension: so good! Clear, concise, well illustrated and well described: so good!
Just did the job anticipating a trip in Canada starting Saturday. All went fine; three exhaust valves a smidgen too tight, one intake valve too loose. Now all in spec and running well. Another So Good!
Thanks for putting this out there for us. I appreciate your doing it, and for taking the time to do it well.
Much appreciated and, might I say, "So Good!"
 
Hi - Thankks for the post. Two weeks after I did my vales on 28 000 km, it seemd that one cylinder went dead for about 3 seconds, two days later it went the same. I am concerened that I may have dammaged something or did somethiing wrong. Any advice?
 
Shuvanni said:
Hi - Thankks for the post. Two weeks after I did my vales on 28 000 km, it seemd that one cylinder went dead for about 3 seconds, two days later it went the same. I am concerened that I may have dammaged something or did somethiing wrong. Any advice?
Click to expand...

Check cylinder compression.
You need to find out what is correct compression for your type of NC's engine for South Africa. It depends on the cylinder compression ratio (performance and type of fuel).
 
kaz said:
Given a suitable set of tools, such as -

tappet tool -
www.amazon.com/gp/product/B001AWE3X2/
sideways screwdriver -
https://www.amazon.com/Neiko-Profile-Screwdriver-5-Piece-Construction/dp/B07GNPRRVZ/
perhaps a mirror on a gooseneck..
(anything else?)

Is it possible to do the valve adjustment without removing the radiator?
Click to expand...

No. I don’t think you would have room to remove the cylinder head cover with the radiator in the way.

You need a torque wrench to properly tighten the adjuster lock nuts, and the cylinder head cover bolts. A few cylinder head cover bolts have been snapped off by members of the forum.
 
kaz said:
Given a suitable set of tools, such as -

tappet tool -
www.amazon.com/gp/product/B001AWE3X2/
sideways screwdriver -
https://www.amazon.com/Neiko-Profile-Screwdriver-5-Piece-Construction/dp/B07GNPRRVZ/
perhaps a mirror on a gooseneck..
(anything else?)

Is it possible to do the valve adjustment without removing the radiator?
Click to expand...
It is possible to check and adjust the valves without completely removing the radiator. That is how I did it the first time. I did not want to drain the coolant at 8,000 miles. I posted a DIY how-to here at the time but for subsequent valve I & A I caught the coolant in a clean container and reused it. The time saved wasn’t worth the close quarters work and risk of damaging the radiator moving it as far away as the hoses allowed.
 
670cc said:
No. I don’t think you would have room to remove the cylinder head cover with the radiator in the way.

You need a torque wrench to properly tighten the adjuster lock nuts, and the cylinder head cover bolts. A few cylinder head cover bolts have been snapped off by members of the forum.
Click to expand...
Thanks for the heads up! Took note to be careful with those.

dduelin said:
It is possible to check and adjust the valves without completely removing the radiator. That is how I did it the first time. I did not want to drain the coolant at 8,000 miles. I posted a DIY how-to here at the time but for subsequent valve I & A I caught the coolant in a clean container and reused it. The time saved wasn’t worth the close quarters work and risk of damaging the radiator moving it as far away as the hoses allowed.
Click to expand...

Do you maybe have a link to that post? I'm curious how it goes.
 
Kaz, I agree with Dave: You can do the check and adjust without removing the radiator, but it isn’t worth the hassle or damage risk. It is better to drain & remove the radiator.
 
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