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Weirdness going on w/rear brake

ld_rider

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Seems as though my rear brake has pretty much stopped functioning. Haven't done any work on it recently or anything like that.
Basically what happens is when I apply it, there is very little actual braking effect. Took a look at the pads (original) and there is plenty of material left.

Giving it the eyeball and it looks fine. No leaks, Just doesn't seem to do much of anything.

Motorcycle has been sitting for awhile (several months). Cleaned the bike the other day and thought maybe I got grease or chain lube on the rotor but it is clean.

TIA for any ideas. DCT w/ABS
 
Wild guesses here. I don‘t know how, but maybe it somehow got air in the line? May be worth bleeding it.

I’m not familiar with the ABS or the Combined ABS, but is there a proportioning valve that could be stuck or leaking past?
 
Pistons may be stuck. Unhook the caliper but not the brake line, clean up the exposed pistons with brake cleaner and a tooth brush, use a clamp to compress the pistons, test to see if the pistons now move in and out.
 
It might just be a little contaminant in there from a recent cleaning or chain lube, - which will wear off with use. I'm amazed/intrigued that you have ~6 years on the original pads. I wonder if the rear brake has been a little light side for a while... or maybe your commute has a lot less traffic than mine :)
 
I have noticed that the rear brake on my NTM '13 NC is not that positive. It could be that my other bike is an ST1300, with linked brakes, though. I have bled/flushed the system, so no excuse there. May try a caliper rebuild .
 
Think some wash water got into the master cylinder reservoir, ld?

That seems unlikely, but I’m not sure what would bring about this sudden change. Definitely no leaks?

Could be a problem (leaky seal) internally in the master cylinder.
 
I have noticed that the rear brake on my NTM '13 NC is not that positive. It could be that my other bike is an ST1300, with linked brakes, though. I have bled/flushed the system, so no excuse there. May try a caliper rebuild .
I used to own both these bikes like you. The NC700X does has a weak rear brake compared to the ST1300. You nailed it with the linked brakes comment. On the ST you are getting both front and rear application with the foot pedal, IIRC about 70% of all braking power can be called up with just the rear pedal.
 
Seems as though my rear brake has pretty much stopped functioning. Haven't done any work on it recently or anything like that.
Basically what happens is when I apply it, there is very little actual braking effect. Took a look at the pads (original) and there is plenty of material left.

Giving it the eyeball and it looks fine. No leaks, Just doesn't seem to do much of anything.

Motorcycle has been sitting for awhile (several months). Cleaned the bike the other day and thought maybe I got grease or chain lube on the rotor but it is clean.

TIA for any ideas. DCT w/ABS
Just to be clear, it seems weak or non-functional at this time and this compared to how it felt in the past or compared to your other bike?
 
Extremely weak. Like I can practically stand on it and it barely does anything. It will eventually slow down so there is "some" function.

This behavior is something new. The pedal travel seems normal and the front brake works fine. Not sure if applying the rear brake has any affect on front braking and that is why it slows eventually or ???

Rear fluid is showing right where it needs to be and no leaks. I hardly ever used the rear brake at all, only when coming to a full stop when the bars are turned. I replaced the front pads at about 45,000 miles and never had to touch the rears. Still like new.
 
Extremely weak. Like I can practically stand on it and it barely does anything. It will eventually slow down so there is "some" function.

This behavior is something new. The pedal travel seems normal and the front brake works fine. Not sure if applying the rear brake has any affect on front braking and that is why it slows eventually or ???

Rear fluid is showing right where it needs to be and no leaks. I hardly ever used the rear brake at all, only when coming to a full stop when the bars are turned. I replaced the front pads at about 45,000 miles and never had to touch the rears. Still like new.
And I forget, is this a 2012, 2013, or 2014?
 
Well that rules out a problem with linked brakes as 2014s did not have this feature.

The pedal is firm and no leaks are present so I think I would start by taking an extra fine Scotchpad and clean the disk and friction pads well with the abrasive pad and brake cleaner.
 
Does the brake system still have the original fluid from the factory? Changing to fresh fluid and bleeding the system can make a HUGE difference.

Some people never change the fluid because they see the level is OK but all manufacturers (not just Honda) recommend fluid changes every two years. The fluid should be almost clear, like cooking oil, and not root beer!
 
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Thanks for the ideas, it is 35 deg today and snow flurries but when it warms up a bit (June? July? Ha ha) at least I have a direction to go.

I'll try the simple things first (my twist on Occam's Razor) and go with some Scotch brite on the rotor. Next, I don't remember the last time I changed brake fluid so I'll hit that since it has to be done anyway. I'm pretty amazed how little of the rear pads are actually worn, and now starting to wonder if the rotor and pads are just glazed over.

When I put the front pads on I bled the brakes and ended up with a really nice, solid feel at the lever.

I have a factory manual and it divides the brakes into two sections; The hydraulic and the ABS systems which I think is fine (no error codes). At first glance the ABS diagrams look like a nightmare, hopefully this is just something simple, I really don't want to get into the ABS....
 
The rear brake isn't strong even at it's best.

BTW at 36,000 miles I was still on original pads and use the brakes a lot.
 
If air was in the line pedal travel would be longer than normal. Bleeding would be the 1 st step.
Corrosion (w/internal leaking) from moisture is why 2 year old fluid needs flushed.
 
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