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What an Africa Twin but Tubes Scare Me!

belrix

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I've been kicking around the idea of getting an Africa Twin (again!) but the fact it has tubed tires is keeping me from getting too serious.

Are tubes as bad as a think? Is fixing a flat fairly easy after you've done it a couple of time and have the right tools?

Could it be money well spent to get a set of Alpina tubless rims?

Am I just overthinking this?


Thanks a million!

brian
 
As is suggested above there are several options to convert rims to tubeless. Some consist of a tape that that seals the rim with a valve kit to complete the final sealing. You are not overthinking. Breaking the bead alone on a modern tubed wheel on the side of the road is a proper pain and that is before you even proceed with replacing the tube.

I owned a CRF1000L prior to swapping for an X-Adv and that is one aspect of AT ownership that I was glad to see the back of.
 
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I don't think there is a "Tubliss System" (Yet) that will work with the rear wheel on an Africa Twin!! There are lots of owners who are using the "Outex" system on the AT with (it seems like) a lot of success!! I'm on my third set of tires on my AT & the Tubes don't bother me at all. It is easier to fix a flat with a plug on a tubless tire but I look back over the past 47 years that I've ridden with tubes & it's not a large factor to me!! That said, , , I may try the Outex System on the rear of my bike the next time I re-tire!!
 
Some of you may have forgotten that motorcycles came with tube tires - from the beginning - and tubeless tires on motorcycle are fairly recent!
 
I have 12000 miles in less than six months of riding my Africa Twin DCT. (Had two knees replaced, so did not ride for a few months). I put 10,000 miles on the stock tires, and 2,000 miles so far on a set of Midas 07 tires. All tube type. In my mid-70's now, so I have had flats a few times on both tube and tubeless tires.

Differences that I have noticed between the tube and tubeless tires.

1. If you have a flat on a tubeless tire, as long as the tire does not brake the rim bead, you can plug the tire without removing it from the bike. Then you can use a small air pump to fill the tire and be on your way. (Easy Fix).

2. If you have a flat on a tubeless tire, an the tire bead is broken, with three men and a powerful compressor which will arrive on the tire truck a few hours after calling, the bead can be reset without removing the tire and the tire plug will then work. (Pain in the rear end)

3. If you put RideOn in the tubeless tire in the first place, you will keep on riding and never knew you had a puncher.

4. RideOn will not work in a tube type tire.... So, pull over, take the rim off the bike, use Motion Pro aluminum type bead breakers, pull out the object that caused the flat, take the tire off the rim on one side, pull out the old tube, put in the extra tube that you carry on the bike at all times, put air in the tire with the small air pump you carry at all times, reinstall the rim and tire on the bike, and ride.

5. Or ---- Pay the few dollars per month insurance that you can add to your insureance policy, call the insurance company, they call the wrecker, scratch your bike when they load it on the wreaker, take the bike to a repair shop (as long as it is not on a Sunday or Monday), stay in a hotel for a day or two, and finally the shop will fix the flat for a fee.

I have done all 5 over the years. For tubeless tires, RideOn is the easy solution. However be it a tube type or tubless tire I aways carry extra tube for each tire size......

Also, tube tires work better in the dirt because you can really lower the air pressure in the tire without the tire slipping on the rim or breaking the bead.

I had a fuel gauage go south last month. Under warranty so I took the AT to a dealership to have the fuel gauge replaced. Next came the Houston flood, I was super lucky as my AT was on the lift stand during the flood. So, three weeks after taking bike to dealership - once again - RIDE.......

Oh yes, forgot to mention the most important:
THANK YOU - AMERICA - FOR HELPING - HOUSTON !!!!!!!!!!!!!!
 
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Technical - Ride-On
Q: Does Ride-On work in tube and tubeless tires?


[FONT=&quot]A: Ride-On TPS will eliminate 85-95% of your flats in tubeless tires from objects up to 1/4" (1/8” for tube tires) that penetrate the contact area of your tire. Ride-On’s efficiency in tube tires is reduced to 55-65% since puncturing objects often tear the tube. It is impossible for a tire sealant to seal a tear. It is vital to remove the puncturing object immediately from a tire containing a tube to prevent further damage that can result in tearing the tube. [/FONT]Read More »
 
I've had good experience with Ride-On, but for a tubed set up I would definitely switch to the Tubeliss system if I wanted pure reliability.

I'm really considering one as well.
 
I'm not saying Ride-On doesn't seal what it should seal -- I'm saying that it costs waaaaay more than comparable products.

I use Tubliss on my WR250 -- with QuadBoss sealant. I can go down to practically no air at all in the regular tire chamber if desired for off-road on that bike.
 
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Ride-On -- Rip-Off
You've covered this before but for those that don't know, you should explain the alternative you use or like. Pic or link to your preferred product please.

Edit: I just saw your later post fpalm. You could still post a pic. Thousand words and all that
 
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Also, tube tires work better in the dirt because you can really lower the air pressure in the tire without the tire slipping on the rim or breaking the bead.

Good to see you are back on the road again OCR. I was wondering where You had gotten to. However I don't altogether agree with your above comment. I have seen valve stems pulled out of tubes when really low pressure was used on rear tyres. Imho really low pressures can only safely be used with tubed tyres when rim locks are also used.
 
Good to see you are back on the road again OCR. I was wondering where You had gotten to. However I don't altogether agree with your above comment. I have seen valve stems pulled out of tubes when really low pressure was used on rear tyres. Imho really low pressures can only safely be used with tubed tyres when rim locks are also used.

Rim Locks are a must for serious dirt riding. I have never had a tube tire over 20psi go south, but give me a little more time, as I am sure it will happen. RawHyde recommends 20 psi for the larger bikes used in the dirt with tubeless tires.
 
With all the other features the Africa Twin comes with, IMO, the "tube fear" should be insignificant.
If that is the only thing that is holding someone back from pulling the trigger, get another test ride;
you will soon forget about that non-issue.
IMHO, off-road bikes should have the option to pressure down the tires for traction in situations
you need it. Tubless tires cannot do that. If you are OK with that limitation, you can still convert
with whatever the market has available. As for me, I like to have the ability to air down.
The only problem is that I am too lazy to do it, most of the time.

In one month and almost 5000 miles, I've had one rear flat, due to a faulty valve stem on a cheap tube; that was it.
Half of those miles have been on the TAT from NC to UT.
 
As is suggested above there are several options to convert rims to tubeless. Some consist of a tape that that seals the rim with a valve kit to complete the final sealing. You are not overthinking. Breaking the bead alone on a modern tubed wheel on the side of the road is a proper pain and that is before you even proceed with replacing the tube.

I owned a CRF1000L prior to swapping for an X-Adv and that is one aspect of AT ownership that I was glad to see the back of.
When did this happen? No regrets?
 
When did this happen? No regrets?

No regrets at all. I made the trade a few weeks ago. Since I got my CRF250L I found the AT slipping in the middle between it and my Explorer, and somewhat redundant as a result. Tbh I never bonded with the AT like I did with the Triumph, and the little 250 was much better for me offroad. The fork issue with the AT was also bugging me and mine clearly had this issue. I was not prepared to go down the route that some have done to get it sorted. The X is totally different. It has DCT and the NC motor that I liked from the getgo when I originally owned an NC. I am a former FJS600 owner also so the scooter aspect also appealed. I now have 3100kms on the X and am looking forward to my first long trip on it.

Incidentally I had an email from Trailjammer designs this morning to let me know that the Stator protector for the AT is shipping/available. I had originally written to him suggesting production and he followed up. Given how soft the stator cover is, this would be a good farkle for any AT owner.
 
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Thanks for all the replies and encouragement, I'm over my fear of tubed tires! :)

Now I have to decide if I'm ready to give up my NC700X. thinking...
 
8400 miles so far on my AT, no flats yet, but I have the tools to take care of it when it happens. I figure I'm not worried about tubed/tubeless until it becomes an issue (which it may very well not).
I'm pretty sure the Tubliss system is not rated for highway speeds. No one has posted about using it on the AT in any of the forums I frequent, but plenty have tried the outex tape.
 
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