What did you do to/with your other motorcycle/scooter/trike today?

[the Ferret]

Wow. I changed may NC’s (w/ manual transmission) oil and filter this morning, and I don’t see how it could be any easier, except maybe if there was no filter at all like on our scooters. Of course, on every other oil change there is no filter to change on the NC, so it’s super easy.

do you pull the belly pan? The SM said to pull the belly pan. On the CB there is no belly pan to pull. Filter is right out in the open between the 4 headed pipes, oil drain plug on the bottom.

Also on the DCT there are 2 filters one in the front and one on the rh side beneath another cover.

Looking at it you could possibly just change the oil on a DCT without pulling anything but the drain plug. But if you want to change the filters the belly pan has to be removed as well.

 

[dduelin]

do you pull the belly pan? The SM said to pull the belly pan. On the CB there is no belly pan to pull. Filter is right out in the open between the 4 headed pipes, oil drain plug on the bottom.

Also on the DCT there are 2 filters one in the front and one on the rh side beneath another cover.

Looking at it you could possibly just change the oil on a DCT without pulling anything but the drain plug. But if you want to change the filters the belly pan has to be removed as well.

The '21s have an extra couple of fasteners for the front of the lower cowl so that would add a little extra time/effort but in the scheme of things an oil change for an NC is still pretty easy IMHO. I guess not as easy as the CB1100 but easier than an ST1300 for instance. My RT has no parts to remove other then the drain plug and filter.

 

[bigbird]

do you pull the belly pan?

What belly pan?
Do you mean the lower front cowl?

 

[TacomaJD]

I don't have better knowledge of engine lubrication systems than what engine engineers would have. I have no reason to doubt that 16,000 miles is a good interval for a filter change, and I figure they are even being conservative in that recommendation as well.

Without testing engine wear or doing oil analysis, simply thinking that 16,000 miles "seems" too long for an oil filter is not a valid reason to doubt the published maintenance schedule.

Oh, I wasn't opposing that at all, simply curious if that's indeed what you were doing. I've never saw an actual maintenance schedule on these bikes, only knew that the oil is to be changed in 8k mile intervals, so I'd never seen anything about only changing the filter every other time. Simply curious, that's all.

 

[670cc]

do you pull the belly pan? The SM said to pull the belly pan. On the CB there is no belly pan to pull. Filter is right out in the open between the 4 headed pipes, oil drain plug on the bottom.

Also on the DCT there are 2 filters one in the front and one on the rh side beneath another cover.

Looking at it you could possibly just change the oil on a DCT without pulling anything but the drain plug. But if you want to change the filters the belly pan has to be removed as well.

On a 2012, you can change the oil filter without removing the lower cowl. But I sometimes use a longer than stock filter, and since the lower cowl is so easy to remove (two screws), I pull the lower cowl off anyway. And of course there is inly one oil filter on a manual trans NC.

 

[670cc]

Oh, I wasn't opposing that at all, simply curious if that's indeed what you were doing. I've never saw an actual maintenance schedule on these bikes, only knew that the oil is to be changed in 8k mile intervals, so I'd never seen anything about only changing the filter every other time. Simply curious, that's all.

Original 2012 NC maintenance schedule had oil, oil filter, and valve check every 8000 miles. Some years later, the NC700 models (with no changes made to the engine) moved the oil filter and valve checks to 16,000 mile intervals. I follow that later version of the maintenance schedule.

 

[the Ferret]

What belly pan?
Do you mean the lower front cowl?

whatever you want to call it, yes.

Remove screw on one side of lower front cowl, walk around and remove screw on the other side of lower front cowl. Pull 2 tabs out of the sockets at the front of the lower front cowl, unclip wire attached to lower front cowl. Set lower front cowl aside. Now you can remove the oil drain plug and unscrew the front oil filter. Remove 2 bolts holding on DCT filter cover. Use baby finger to remove clutch filter. Insert new clutch oil filter. Reinstall 2 bolts holding on the DCT clutch cover making sure o'ring and spring are in the right place. Screw on new front oil filter, Re-clip wire attached to the lower front cowl, line up and pop the tabs into the sockets, walk to one side of bike and install screw, walk to other side of bike and install screw. Add appropriate amount of oil.

Now lets compare that to changing the oil on the CB 1100

Remove drain plug, unscrew front oil filter, reinstall drain plug, screw on new oil filter, Add appropriate amount of oil.

and THAT'S why I said I wished changing the oil on the NC was as easy as changing the oil on the CB.

 

[670cc]

whatever you want to call it, yes.

Remove screw on one side of front lower cowl, walk around and remove screw on the other side of front lower cowl. Pull 2 tabs out of the sockets at the front of the lower front cowl, unclip wire attached to lower front cowl. Set lower front cowl aside. Now you can remove the oil drain plug and unscrew the front oil filter. Remove 2 bolts holding on DCT filter cover. Use baby finger to remove clutch filter. Insert new clutch oil filter. Reinstall 2 bolts holding on the DCT clutch cover making sure o'ring and spring are in the right place. Screw on new front oil filter, Re-clip wire attached to the lower front cowl, line up and pop the tabs into the sockets, walk to one side of bike and install screw, walk to other side of bike and install screw. Add appropriate amount of oil.

Now lets compare that to changing the oil on the CB 1100

Remove drain plug, unscrew front oil filter, reinstall drain plug, screw on new oil filter, Add appropriate amount of oil.

and THAT'S why I said I wished changing the oil on the NC was as easy as changing the oil on the CB.

Well you are comparing a DCT to a manual transmission, but I get the hassle part with the lower cowl. Anyway, if you follow the maintenance schedule, every other oil change should involve nothing but the drain plug and the fill cap. Or, does the 2021 lower cowl interfere with those items?

 

[the Ferret]

Well you are comparing a DCT to a manual transmission, but I get the hassle part with the lower cowl. Anyway, if you follow the maintenance schedule, every other oil change should involve nothing but the drain plug and the fill cap. Or, does the 2021 lower cowl interfere with those items?

I think you can drain and refill the oil only (no filter changes) without removing anything but the drain plug (and of course the fill cap).

Really it's not THAT big of a deal doing the whole thing, but compared to my CB 1100 (and old FJR which was almost as easy as the CB..you had to remove 1 one 5 mm allen screw and prop a fairing panel out of the way..but the drain plug was on the bottom side of the motor right next to the spin on oil filter...really convenient) it's just a minor PIA.

When I was doing my 600 mile service I thought, Why didn't Honda make it so you could remove the DCT cover without removing the lower front cowling? and also why didn't they mold a slot in the lower front cowling so you could check your coolant level easily? Would have been so easy and convenient and they wouldn't have lost any strength in the lower front cowling.

 

[bigbird]

Sounds like the Ferret is just pissed with the lower front cowl. Two bolts is all it is. Takes what, 30 seconds to remove and another 30 to reinstall?!
If you want to be really pissed try changing the air filter on a Goldwing.
The first time I did mine it was 4 hours. After 3 more times I got it down to 1.5 hours.

 

[the Ferret]

LOL I wouldn't say I was po'd, just aggravated a little. I'm 71 years old, have trouble getting down and back up off the floor, and not a natural mechanic to start with. Having to jump through extra, seemingly unnecessary hoops on what could/should be a simple job aggravates me. And it's not just 2 bolts, it's 2 screws, 2 tabs and a clip.

It took me a lot longer than 30 seconds to get it off, although I can probably do it quicker next time. If I remember next time, I'll time it. If properly designed, it wouldn't have had to be removed at all. It just a decorative piece of plastic..it's not like it provides any protection for the rider or the engine. Just pretty fluff to make the bike look good.

IMO normal maintenance items like spark plugs, oil filters, air filters, checking and adding coolant, battery removal shouldn't require factory trained tech level mechanical ability, especially on a bike where they require you do it every 8000 miles or so, or pay a mechanic $100 an hour to do it for you.

I've heard changing the air filter on a Wing will make you say a few bad words. Ridiculous. Another engineering blunder IMO

 

[670cc]

LOL I wouldn't say I was po'd, just aggravated a little. I'm 71 years old, have trouble getting down and back up off the floor, and not a natural mechanic to start with. Having to jump through extra, seemingly unnecessary hoops on what could/should be a simple job aggravates me. And it's not just 2 bolts, it's 2 screws, 2 tabs and a clip.

It took me a lot longer than 30 seconds to get it off, although I can probably do it quicker next time. If I remember next time, I'll time it. If properly designed, it wouldn't have had to be removed at all. It just a decorative piece of plastic..it's not like it provides any protection for the rider or the engine. Just pretty fluff to make the bike look good.

IMO normal maintenance items like spark plugs, oil filters, air filters, checking and adding coolant, battery removal shouldn't require factory trained tech level mechanical ability, especially on a bike where they require you do it every 8000 miles or so, or pay a mechanic $100 an hour to do it for you.

I've heard changing the air filter on a Wing will make you say a few bad words. Ridiculous. Another engineering blunder IMO

Automobiles and trucks aren’t always better. Some vehicles require you to reach into some narrow space inside the right wheel well to reach the oil filter. Then when the filter comes off, the spilled oil runs down all over the frame and front end components. I’d rather remove the NC cowl any day.

One idea is if you don’t see a practical purpose for the lower cowl, you could just remove it permanently.

The design philosophy of Honda (and other manufacturers) seems to prioritize looking pretty above being easily serviceable,.

 

[the Ferret]

Yea thought about just leaving it off, but ended up putting it back on. I'll just grumble about it every year when I have to remove it. Realistically, I probably don't have many years of riding left, so I'll only have to deal with it a few more times if I go by Honda's recommended maint schedule lol. My wife thinks I should just let the shop do all the maintenance on it, but doggone it, a guy needs to do some of the stuff to his own bike. An oil change seems like a no brainer.

Today I did an oil/filter change and new hand grips on the CB. Both were a piece of cake (no ribs on the throttle tube to deal with on the grips). No grumbling at all lol.

 

[bigbird]

Automobiles and trucks aren’t always better. Some vehicles require you to reach into some narrow space inside the right wheel well to reach the oil filter. Then when the filter comes off, the spilled oil runs down all over the frame and front end components.

Sounds like a Honda Ridgeline LOL.
Subaru has the right idea for the oil filter.
Doesn't get any easier than this:

 

[Rapturee]

But I sometimes use a longer than stock filter.

i didn't know you could use a longer filter on the NC, which one are you using may i ask? Thanks :{)

 

[bigbird]

There's a whack of compatible oil filters for the NC, or most Hondas motorcycles for that matter.
The same oil filters as most Honda autos use, as well as Mazda, Subaru,Mitsubishi, Nissan....
I use Fram Ultra Synthetic, part # 7317.

 

[670cc]

i didn't know you could use a longer filter on the NC, which one are you using may i ask? Thanks :{)

For many years on my Goldwing, and now also on the NC, I have often used a Purolator PL14 blah blah blah I forgot the whole number oil filter. One number is Honda OEM motorcycle size, and one number is a bit longer and it fits the bikes and I think it also fits Honda cars. If you are interested in the exact part numbers, just say so, and i will find them for you.

 

[670cc]

Sounds like a Honda Ridgeline LOL.
Subaru has the right idea for the oil filter.
Doesn't get any easier than this:

View attachment 46161

That Subaru oil filter arrangement looks nice. The favorite one I had was on an older Toyota Camry with a slanted block in-line four. The oil filter was right there in front of you on the side of the block, and it was angled so that it drained itself. At replacement time you just reached down right there under the hood and spun it off, and there was no oil mess whatsoever.

 

[bigbird]

For many years on my Goldwing, and now also on the NC, I have often used a Purolator PL14 blah blah blah I forgot the whole number oil filter.

PL14610
I've used those also on my Honda motorcycles over the years.

But beware.
Purolator changed the base plate on that filter a number of years ago.
They went from a concave base to a convex base.
The convex base will not seat properly any more on the motorcycle engine, and thus it will leak.

 

[Rapturee]

Thank you both, that is why i was asking which one exactly you were using so i got the same one and not one that leaked 5 miles into the ride and i lose a motor! :{P