Wheel bearing service ( copied from wheel bearing questions in the garage)

[Beemerphile]

I try very hard not to hammer old bearings out or new bearings in, but it takes a bit of equipment that many people will not have. The bearings are interference fit on the bearing OD. To reduce the possibility of damage it helps to temporarily reduce the interference. Less interference equals less opportunity for damage regardless of the installation and removal method you use. My bearings go in the freezer overnight. I make sure that they are still in the manufacturer's complete packaging and put the package into a ziplock bag and seal it. The wheel is heated twice in the process - once to remove the old bearing and again prior to the installation of the new bearing. Some would say that hammering out the old bearing is no problem, because you are going to throw it away anyhow. What you are not going to throw away (unless you ruin it) is the wheel. If you hammer out an old bearing and it gets cocked in the bore, you can damage the (normally aluminum) bore. After several of those operations, the new bearing can end up loose in the bore. Bearing removal is where the greatest potential for damage is. With the internal spacer, it is difficult to get good contact for a punch (please, not a screwdriver!). Evenly heat the hub with a hot air gun prior to removal. Try to heat the hub and not the bearing. Work quickly while the hub is hot. Try to avoid cocking the bearing on the way out by taking small taps at a number of different places around the bearing. Once one bearing and the spacer are removed, the opposite side bearing is easier because you can tap at the OD. If you want to invest in a tool, look for a good blind bearing puller. Mine has both a slide hammer and a mechanical puller because I am averse to hammers. Either will work. Unlike the jaws on a pilot bearing puller, a blind puller will have a range of collets to fit various bearing ID's. The collet has a very narrow lip on the ID and can easily get in between the bearing and the spacer.

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The slide hammer only versions of the tool are pretty inexpensive and this greatly improves your chances of performing the operation successfully. This is a BMW wheel, but it shows the process that I use for bearing removal...

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Once the bearings are removed, clean the bores with contact cleaner and lightly grease them. Retrieve your frozen bearing and open the package and place it in a clean place so it is available but not going to get dirty. Heat the bore evenly and again working quickly, place the new bearing squarely in the bore and drive or press it home. Never use force against the inner race, only the outer. You can use a correctly sized bearing arbor or the old bearing to press with. It must go in squarely to prevent damage. Again, being hammerphobic, I use a shop press...

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I mount the wheel on press blocks so that there is a path straight through the axle hole. The bottom plated press blocks in this stack are V-blocks. To make sure that I have the spacer square and centered, I place the axle in through the lower bearing and spacer and just into the upper bearing. It is held by a piece of cardboard across the lower blocks and is easily pushed out of the way as the second bearing is pressed home. I generally use the old bearing as an arbor.

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ETA: I have done a couple of BMW's this year but I haven't changed the NC bearings yet and do not know the specific arrangement, but these procedures ought to apply. My SOP is to routinely change sealed wheel bearings at 40,000 miles or five years whether they need it or not. I had a front wheel bearing fail on my ST1100 at 40,000 miles and it felt perfect when I installed the latest tire. It grabbed a couple of times and squealed like a cat was caught in it. That is more excitement than this old man needs.

 

[bamamate]

First, I need to get you good cups cause the ones in your freezer are awful.
Second, the dust seals, can they be easily removed and reused? On changing bearings I would replace but just to get a look under them can they be reused and how to get them out without damage?

 

[Beemerphile]

First, I need to get you good cups cause the ones in your freezer are awful.
Second, the dust seals, can they be easily removed and reused? On changing bearings I would replace but just to get a look under them can they be reused and how to get them out without damage?

Dust seals are expendable. If I take one off, it is not going back on except in a case of "have to". You might get them off without damage if you are very careful but bending them when you are levering them off or damaging the tip seal are both easily done. If I am not replacing the bearing or seal, I just clean carefully underneath the lip with a few cotton swabs. Then I pack the gaps fully with waterproof grease (as in marine or "boat trailer" grease). A damaged seal packed full of waterproof grease probably works better than a new seal installed dry.



War Eagle.

 

[Beemerphile]

BTW, here is an interesting tool that might work to remove the second bearing after the spacer is out. I only use it for steering head bearings though...

 

[Olythom]

Hey Beemer... Does one just use the ID of their bearing to buy the proper puller/collet, does the collet have a wide enough range to handle multiple bearing sizes, or is yours part of a 'set' with various sizes? Any possibility that you would have a mfg/part number for the one that you use on the NC?

Thanks in advance. Your posts are always appreciated.
>T

 

[itlives]

Hey Olythom. Beemer hasn't been here for awhile. (He's not GONE gone, just not on this site -afaik).


The way it is designed, looks like it can be used or a few different sizes.

 

[Beemerphile]

Your posts are always appreciated.
>T

Not always.

Hey Olythom. Beemer hasn't been here for awhile. (He's not GONE gone, just not on this site -afaik).

I'm giving it another try. It never works so this may be brief, but I am a slow learner.

The way it is designed, looks like it can be used or a few different sizes.

Yes, each collet works for a small range of sizes. You pick the closest, and tighten the tapered stud to expand the collet to fit the ID. I will post a follow-up with the part number and a pic of my set the next time I am at my shop. I like the set quite a lot.

ETA: This is the set that I have...

Motorcycle Blind Bearing Bridge Puller Remover Removal Tool Set New | eBay

(There is another auction for the same set $10 cheaper - shop around or make an $89 offer on this one.)

It is a no-name, but I have been quite satisfied with the quality of the set..

 

[Old Can Ride]

Glad to see Beemerpile back, giving great advise as always. Are you going to any Horizions Unlimited events this year, or to any other rallies? Got to figure a way to meet you face to face.

 

[Beemerphile]

Glad to see Beemerpile back, giving great advise as always. Are you going to any Horizions Unlimited events this year, or to any other rallies? Got for figure a way to meet you face to face.

Thanks OCR. I will likely make the NC event in early October. My good bud Mike K. puts it on. The only rally I am planning is the BMWRA in Arkansas the week before the HU-NC event. Otherwise, nothing planned except an end-to-end full Blue Ridge Parkway / Skyline Drive ride at some time TBD - probably solo.

UPDATE: OCR, I am registered for the NC Travelers' Meeting Oct. 8-11th.

 

[Olythom]

Beemer - Thanks. I will be adding a set to my toolbox.
>T

 

[itlives]

Thanks OCR. I will likely make the NC event in early October.

UPDATE: OCR, I am registered for the NC Travelers' Meeting Oct. 8-11th.

I'm registered, too. In the middle of trying to sell my house. Hopefully, it won't drag out that long. If I sell it, I'll definitely be there. If OCR goes, I'll tag along with him. Hope to meet you!

Olythom- thanks for bringing up this old thread!

 

[surf1div1]

Not always.



I'm giving it another try. It never works so this may be brief, but I am a slow learner.



Yes, each collet works for a small range of sizes. You pick the closest, and tighten the tapered stud to expand the collet to fit the ID. I will post a follow-up with the part number and a pic of my set the next time I am at my shop. I like the set quite a lot.

ETA: This is the set that I have...

Motorcycle Blind Bearing Bridge Puller Remover Removal Tool Set New | eBay

(There is another auction for the same set $10 cheaper - shop around or make an $89 offer on this one.)

It is a no-name, but I have been quite satisfied with the quality of the set..

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Thanks for the URL for where to get that set- it's spendy as you noted Beemer. Upon review of the manual and using this Blind bearing puller, my question is now what do you folks use to install the bearings? I see in the manual these attachments (07749-0010000, 07746-0010300, 07746-0040500) for the right side bearing, and 07946-1870100 for the rear wheel distance collar, and the same parts for the driven flange bearing /collar. Upon review of this forums page (http://nc700-forum.com/forum/garage...heel-bearing-question.html?highlight=bearings) it appears you just freeze them overnight and heat the hub and per JDE he went ahead and purchased I believe this for pulling them (Amazon.com: Pit Posse PP2562 3 Piece Bearing Remover Set Motorcycle Tool: Automotive) and this for installing them: The Motion Pro Valve Stem Seal Installer 4.5mm for Kawasaki ZX1000C ZX-10R 04-05. I can't justify the cost for the blind bearing puller currently but I also don't want to compromise the job as Beemer has eloquently shown by scoring the ID pulling or putting the new ones in. I've never done anything like this so any qualified feedback with people that have done it on their NC is much appreciated. I'm ordering the bearings from Pro-Caliber...I've had good luck with them.

 

[Beemerphile]

and this for installing them: The Motion Pro Valve Stem Seal Installer 4.5mm for Kawasaki ZX1000C ZX-10R 04-05.

I am not sure what role this tool plays.

I can't justify the cost for the blind bearing puller currently but I also don't want to compromise the job as Beemer has eloquently shown by scoring the ID pulling or putting the new ones in. I've never done anything like this so any qualified feedback with people that have done it on their NC is much appreciated. I'm ordering the bearings from Pro-Caliber...I've had good luck with them.

My comments were not intended to scare people away from the job if they did not have pullers and presses. The same cautions come into play if done with hammers and drifts, but become more important. Heating the larger diameter and cooling the smaller diameter will help with any installation methodology to reduce the chance of damage. Another key is keeping the bearing square in the bore whether installing or removing. And another is cleaning and lightly lubing the bore for reinstallation. The less you apply these, the more likely you are to damage a bore or muff the job. There will always be the guy who drives them in hot with a sledgehammer and gets away with it and occasionally an unfortunate soul who ruins a bore with the best of tools. Many more bearings are driven in and out than are pressed and pulled because that is the equipment that most people have. Just as a touchless tire changer gives better assurance of not damaging rims than a long set of tire irons - it just becomes more important to employ the cautions when your tools are not the best.

 

[bamamate]

My comments were not intended to scare people away from the job if they did not have pullers and presses. The same cautions come into play if done with hammers and drifts, but become more important. Heating the larger diameter and cooling the smaller diameter will help with any installation methodology to reduce the chance of damage. Another key is keeping the bearing square in the bore whether installing or removing. And another is cleaning and lightly lubing the bore for reinstallation. The less you apply these, the more likely you are to damage a bore or muff the job. There will always be the guy who drives them in hot with a sledgehammer and gets away with it and occasionally an unfortunate soul who ruins a bore with the best of tools. Many more bearings are driven in and out than are pressed and pulled because that is the equipment that most people have. Just as a touchless tire changer gives better assurance of not damaging rims than a long set of tire irons - it just becomes more important to employ the cautions when your tools are not the best.

And here I thought you were a chemical engineer. Didn't realize you were also a product disclaimer author.
I'll interpret for the non-BMW owner or engineer crowd. Rednecking it can damage the parts but the alternative is expensive so most people redneck it successfully.

 

[Heavy-H]

Honda quality. ..... At just over 32000 miles, had 1 rear wheel bearing go bad..... My tech fixed it up.....

 

[Beemerphile]

Honda quality. ..... At just over 32000 miles, had 1 rear wheel bearing go bad..... My tech fixed it up.....

Your conclusion might be incorrect. Honda uses the same top line bearings as all of the other Japanese manufacturers. Most rear bearing failures on this bike have had evidence of water intrusion. Obviously spray-washing and water crossings make this more likely. I have suggested that some extra grease be packed inside under the seal lips to add a barrier for water entry. Do you know if your tech did this? Most do not.