• A few people have been scammed on the site, Only use paypal to pay for items for sale by other members. If they will not use paypal, its likely a scam NEVER SEND E-TRANSFERS OF ANY KIND.

Wheel wheel removal?

T

Thangmorian

Site Supporter
Joined
Apr 2, 2015
Messages
90
Reaction score
0
Points
0
Location
Willington Hill
Visit site
Been looking for a step by step rear wheel removal. I have only found vague guidance. I did attempt to get a shop manual, but what i received was a vultus manual which has a different swingarm etc. Here are some of my questions.

Do i need to monkey with my rear brake cylinder? I saw a post where it was suggested that it be removed. Why? So i dont accidentialy use my rear brake and extend the caliper? Wouldnt i be able to just push it back in like a car caliper?

Do i touch the chain adjusters? No one on the board has mentioned them, but the one video i did find the guy backed them off, but it was a much older honda.

The axle appears to be a shaft with a hex head on one side 22mm and a nut 27mm on the other. Hold 22mm side and take 27mm nut off?

Oh why am i changing my wheel? Well they are pirelli scorpion trails and i have zero groves left on the left side of the tire afet 2000 miles, so i got a pr4 that needs to go on.

Some help would would be great. Heres a pic of the pirelleuploadfromtaptalk1436735111575.jpg
 
Sorry to ask but the first question is did you read the owners manual procedure? The USA manual includes wheel removal. Maybe yours does too.

It may help to first remove the chain guard. Loosen both chain adjusters a long ways. Loosen the axle nut. Kick the wheel forward to slacken the chain. Remove chain from sprocket and drape it on the swing arm. Remove axle nut. Pull out axle. Wheel is now free except for being captive by the caliper, and since you have a DCT with parking brake and I don't, I have no experience with that part.
 
Last edited:
1. Must have the tire off the ground. On my NC I have a center stand. The combination of my center stand and the bags that I use let me have the front tire in the air with bags on (enough weight at rear to put the front tire in air) and with the bags off the motorcycle the weight distribution changes and the rear tire goes into the air. This makes it easy to change my tires and oil the chain when at home or on the roadway. Tie a ratchet from the front wheel to the center stand, so the bike can not fall off the center stand. Here is picture on the road in Mexico changing rear tire.

Mexico 002.jpg

2. On the rear brake caliper side of the bike take off the two bolts that hold the rear brake caliper. Move the brake caliper off the rotor and place the caliper out of the way. The little clip that sets on the brake caliper will fall off, and you will have to replace it to the proper place when you reinstall the brake caliper.

3. At the rear of bike take off the two small bolts on each side (total four) that hold the chain adjustment slides in place.

4. Loosen the axel bolt by removing the large nut, but do not remove the axel at this time.

5. Push the rear wheel forward in the swing arm. This must be done before removing the axel, so it will be easy to move the chain out of the way when removing tire.

6. Wedge something under the rear tire that will stop the tire from falling to the ground when you remove the axel bolt. (I use a wooden 2X4, but it depends on how high in the air the rear tire is.) This makes it easier to remove the axel bolt also.

7. For the first time, use your cell phone to take a picture where all the parts are when in place.

8. Now remove the rear axel. The spacers on both sides will fall to the ground, and it is important to remember which goes on which side.

9. Move the chain out of the way.

10. Roll the tire to the rear and out from under the bike.

11. Lay the rim assembly on the rotor side, then pull up on the rear sprocket assembly. The sprocket assembly will come straight up an out. Also, the rubbler spacers must be inspected before reinstalling.

12. If you have a duck foot on your side stand as I do, it can be used to brake the bead of the tire from the rim. If not you have to buy something to break the tire bead.

13. Remove the tire with at least 3 tire irons. Do not let a tire iron hit you when under pressure.

14. Install the new tire with the new tire "balance dot" aligned with the tire stem. Also, double check the direction of rotation mark.. Make sure tire in rotating in the right direction. When I was a Honda dealer you would not believe how many times a new bike came from Honda with the tires put on wrong.
 
Last edited:
On US roads the crown has you on the right side of it, wearing the left side more than the right.
 
Hey Thang. Is there more to the (left side only) story? The position of that wear appears to be waayy off to the left shoulder of the tire. In Washington, a crown that drastic would have me in the ditch every time it rains. Are you flat-tracking that bike?? ;-)
>T
 
Therapy said:
Great posts but I am interested in how one wears only the left side of the tire.

There has to be a story there.
Click to expand...

I'd love to say that I have a very small flat circle track that I do laps on at high speeds in high temps, while wearing naught but a speedo, but the truth is the tire developed a leak somewhere and allowed the tire to squish out and wear funny. The bike is usually on it's center stand so I never really noticed it was low. The day I did notice I was two up for 24 miles to work and made a quick stop for groceries (gotta love the frunk + 55l givi topcase) and I didn't use the center stand. When I came out I noticed it looking odd. It was down to 15 psi at this point. Put air in and rode it home. 7 days later (don't ask) it still had 25 psi. A similar occurrence happened to my MP3. One of the fronts went low and wore to the threads on the way home. Didn't notice a ling handling wise then earlier. I really should make a habit of checking the pressure with a gauge rather than just looking things over. I even have one in the bike at all times. Oh well the folly of youth I guess.

Thanks OCR for the step by step. Really Really thank you. I hate having to do a new procedure without reading something and I was stressing. I did manage to get the wheel out by reading the Vultus manual I have (Anyone wanna trade for a NC700XD manual?) Loosen adjusters, loosen axle, take chain off, remove axle, remove wheel. Interestingly I didn't need to take the caliper off the bracket to do so. I started to reinstall yesterday but ran out of day light, I don't think I'll be able to put it all together without taking the caliper off the bracket tho. Right now the wheel is in there with the chain on the sprocket and the brake up out of the way. Didn't take the chain guard off yet either. Will finish up tonight and if I do get the wheel on with out taking the caliper off I'll let you all know.

Also what is the purpose of the rubber dohickey's on the sprocket side? To smooth things out power wise?

Here's a picture of a similar but worse wear from my MP3 MP3 Tire.jpg
 
Olythom said:
Hey Thang. Is there more to the (left side only) story? The position of that wear appears to be waayy off to the left shoulder of the tire. In Washington, a crown that drastic would have me in the ditch every time it rains. Are you flat-tracking that bike?? ;-)
>T
Click to expand...

I attract enough yahoos who try to kill me on the road I don't want to think about what would happen if I was helping them (me on a track :p)
 
Yep rubber dohickey's are called the cush (sp?) drive. They give some flex to smooth things out. When reinstalling, make sure you get the slot in the caliper bracket lined up with the nub on the swing arm. That is what keeps the bracket from rotating when the brakes are applied.
 
Old Can Ride said:
1. Must have the tire off the ground. On my NC I have a center stand. The combination of my center stand and the bags that I use let me have the front tire in the air with bags on (enough weight at rear to put the front tire in air) and with the bags off the motorcycle the weight distribution changes and the rear tire goes into the air. This makes it easy to change my tires and oil the chain when at home or on the roadway. Tie a ratchet from the front wheel to the center stand, so the bike can not fall off the center stand. Here is picture on the road in Mexico changing rear tire.

View attachment 25071

2. On the rear brake caliper side of the bike take off the two bolts that hold the rear brake caliper. Move the brake caliper off the rotor and place the caliper out of the way. The little clip that sets on the brake caliper will fall off, and you will have to replace it to the proper place when you reinstall the brake caliper.

3. At the rear of bike take off the two small bolts on each side (total four) that hold the chain adjustment slides in place.

4. Loosen the axel bolt by removing the large nut, but do not remove the axel at this time.

5. Push the rear wheel forward in the swing arm. This must be done before removing the axel, so it will be easy to move the chain out of the way when removing tire.

6. Wedge something under the rear tire that will stop the tire from falling to the ground when you remove the axel bolt. (I use a wooden 2X4, but it depends on how high in the air the rear tire is.) This makes it easier to remove the axel bolt also.

7. For the first time, use your cell phone to take a picture where all the parts are when in place.

8. Now remove the rear axel. The spacers on both sides will fall to the ground, and it is important to remember which goes on which side.

9. Move the chain out of the way.

10. Roll the tire to the rear and out from under the bike.

11. Lay the rim assembly on the rotor side, then pull up on the rear sprocket assembly. The sprocket assembly will come straight up an out. Also, the rubbler spacers must be inspected before reinstalling.

12. If you have a duck foot on your side stand as I do, it can be used to brake the bead of the tire from the rim. If not you have to buy something to break the tire bead.

13. Remove the tire with at least 3 tire irons. Do not let a tire iron hit you when under pressure.

14. Install the new tire with the new tire "balance dot" aligned with the tire stem. Also, double check the direction of rotation mark.. Make sure tire in rotating in the right direction. When I was a Honda dealer you would not believe how many times a new bike came from Honda with the tires put on wrong.
Click to expand...

I finished putting the wheel on. No worries there. I would just like to share my experience for other first timers.
I had not removed the brake caliper from the caliper bracket when I removed the wheel. #2 above recommends doing so. But since I hadn't I attempted to put it all back together with the caliper still on the bracket. At first I couldn't because I tried to get the wheel in place and then finagle the caliper and bracket in. There's not room for that kind of shenanigans. So I took the caliper off, and put the bracket in place with the parking brake caliper still attached. Then I tried to get the brake caliper reattached but the bracket must not have been positioned properly as the larger bolt hole of the forward side would not clear the swing arm. So I took the wheel out and put the caliper back on (cause the swing arm is in the way ya see). Put the bracket in place (properly this time) with both calipers in place, and then carefully slid the wheel back in making sure the rotor went in between both sets of pads and then put the chain on and reassembled after making sure the lug on the swing arm was in the slot on the brake caliper bracket. This is when I realized that the bolt does clear the swing arm. But this is also when I realized I didn't ever need to monkey with the caliper in the first place as I had just put the whole thing together with both calipers on the bracket. Ah well, at least I got some experience doing a wheel change a bunch of different ways.

So in short #2 above says to remove the brake caliper, but it is possible to change the wheel without doing so. Additionally the DCT manual says to bemove the parking bnrake caliper to change the wheel. So I guess there's 4 ways to do it. Take off no calipers, Take off the brake caliper, Take off the parking brake caliper, and take off both!

I also found it interesting how little you need to turn the adjusters to really change the amount of slack in the chain. I used the marks on the guides, but definitely want to get an alignment tool. Any recommendations out there?

And before anyone asks yes I did check my tire pressure. Right at 41.
 
Thangmorian said:
I finished putting the wheel on. No worries there. I would just like to share my experience for other first timers.
I had not removed the brake caliper from the caliper bracket when I removed the wheel. #2 above recommends doing so. But since I hadn't I attempted to put it all back together with the caliper still on the bracket. At first I couldn't because I tried to get the wheel in place and then finagle the caliper and bracket in. There's not room for that kind of shenanigans. So I took the caliper off, and put the bracket in place with the parking brake caliper still attached. Then I tried to get the brake caliper reattached but the bracket must not have been positioned properly as the larger bolt hole of the forward side would not clear the swing arm. So I took the wheel out and put the caliper back on (cause the swing arm is in the way ya see). Put the bracket in place (properly this time) with both calipers in place, and then carefully slid the wheel back in making sure the rotor went in between both sets of pads and then put the chain on and reassembled after making sure the lug on the swing arm was in the slot on the brake caliper bracket. This is when I realized that the bolt does clear the swing arm. But this is also when I realized I didn't ever need to monkey with the caliper in the first place as I had just put the whole thing together with both calipers on the bracket. Ah well, at least I got some experience doing a wheel change a bunch of different ways.

So in short #2 above says to remove the brake caliper, but it is possible to change the wheel without doing so. Additionally the DCT manual says to bemove the parking bnrake caliper to change the wheel. So I guess there's 4 ways to do it. Take off no calipers, Take off the brake caliper, Take off the parking brake caliper, and take off both!

I also found it interesting how little you need to turn the adjusters to really change the amount of slack in the chain. I used the marks on the guides, but definitely want to get an alignment tool. Any recommendations out there?

And before anyone asks yes I did check my tire pressure. Right at 41.
Click to expand...
This is what I use.

MP Aligntment tool
 
You must log in or register to reply here.

Similar threads

S
Wheel removal ?
Replies
7
Views
1K
Silver_Commuter
S
Y
2012 transmission noise
Replies
2
Views
392
yticolev
Y
Juan_Banjovy
Problem Changing Rear Brake Pads
2
Replies
21
Views
1K
Dan German
Dan German
T
Unexpected: Rear wheel bearing comes out by hand
Replies
4
Views
797
jeremyr62
J
mzflorida
Brakes "Skipping" at end of Braking Cycle
Replies
13
Views
246
mzflorida
mzflorida
Back
Top