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YOP?

ST13Fred

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This acronym appears in the wiring schematic surrounded by a boxed cutting plane line (CPL)@ several locations; 2 were to a single wire.
On blueprints a CPL ID's an imaginary cut thru an object but have perpendicular arrows in the line. This is different, however.
Honda Power Sports think it is a European designation but is not on the 2013 NC schematic.

Anyway, I have the heated grips, handlebar protectors (w/LEDs), 12V plug, (engine guard mounted) LED driving lights (w/3-way switch) ready to install.
The diagram DOES show the optional 6-pin 'plug and play' (3 wires used) connector on my 2017 NC to power all this from one location.
But everything related to the grip install has this YOP designation. Curious minds need to know. The Honda rep was going to send me a link to further investigate.
Stay strong out there-NO MASK! Not needed.
 
I've got a shop manual for US 2016-2018 model years. I can see the "YOP" on the circuit diagrams for '16-'17 but those analogous terminations on the "After '17" circuit diagrams are shown as "OPTION CONNECTOR (For sub-harness) " and "OPTION CONNECTOR (For grip heater)". I extrapolate from this that "YOP" basically means that you'll need to some supplementary info for how these circuits extend to the optional equipment.

You'll get installation instructions with the parts when you buy OEM (Honda) auxiliary harness (which also requires a relay/fuse set) or heated grips (which also requires the same relay/fuse set AND a heated grip install kit - which is mostly a wiring harness). You can download these same installation instructions from Honda USA's website.

FWIW, if you're planning on using the OEM 12V outlet that installs in the frunk using the aux wiring harness, your output will be limited to 7.5 amps by the fuse in the relay/fuse set. Better, I think, to separately wire the 12V outlet directly to the battery w/ a dedicated, larger fuse in the hot wire. Higher current capacity is always good and it's nice to have power available even when the ignition switch is off. Ya might also wanna consider using a bulkhead-mounted SAE plug instead of a "cigarette lighter" connector ... I consider it an unnatural act to use an electrical connector that tries to unplug itself as part of it's basic design!
 
........ FWIW, if you're planning on using the OEM 12V outlet that installs in the frunk using the aux wiring harness, your output will be limited to 7.5 amps by the fuse in the relay/fuse set. Better, I think, to separately wire the 12V outlet directly to the battery w/ a dedicated, larger fuse in the hot wire. Higher current capacity is always good and it's nice to have power available even when the ignition switch is off. Ya might also wanna consider using a bulkhead-mounted SAE plug instead of a "cigarette lighter" connector ... I consider it an unnatural act to use an electrical connector that tries to unplug itself as part of it's basic design!
The marine grade "cigarette lighter" power points I habitually install in my bikes have a twist-lock design that securely retain the male fitting. I just got in the habit of wiring directly to the battery a Marinco receptacle for the locking feature, 20A capacity, corrosion resistance and the use of 12v air compressors that come with male plug fittings. With a USB adapter it covers all the anticipated uses from electronic device charging when riding, the bike's battery charging at home back through it, and a compressor for flats on the road.
 
The marine grade "cigarette lighter" power points I habitually install in my bikes have a twist-lock design that securely retain the male fitting. I just got in the habit of wiring directly to the battery a Marinco receptacle for the locking feature, 20A capacity, corrosion resistance and the use of 12v air compressors that come with male plug fittings. With a USB adapter it covers all the anticipated uses from electronic device charging when riding, the bike's battery charging at home back through it, and a compressor for flats on the road.

Overall, good advice I think, but re: connectors, you say potato and I say potato (whoops ... that doesn't work too well in text form, does it?)

A few points, if I might ...
- Marinco makes good stuff, I've never seen any of their equipment that wasn't high quality.
- Honda's OEM frunk outlet does not appear to have a twist lock so the "unnatural act" criticism applies here, I think
- While I don't claim omniscience, as I recall most of the higher-quality air compressors I've seen (and a number that I've owned) all had SAE connectors as their native connector with additional accessory harnesses that allowed for SAE to cig lighter or battery terminal bolt/clamp connections ... but the "Slime" brand compressors I've bought at WallyWorld did have a cig lighter plug, so there's that. And I think most of the accessories one might want to electrify in the frunk can be had in either cig lighter or SAE and adapter cables are readily available too.

I'd guess we both agree that 1) you should wire directly to the battery terminals to power an accessory outlet (don't walk off and forget to unplug a constant power draw) and 2) the connector should be positive and locking. As for the specific connector configuration, ya pays yer money and ya takes yer choice!
 
My pump has SAE. Good choice to not keep doing it the wrong way just because others have.
 
I had found an SAE battery pigtail that was rated for starter packs at one point, but the company then switched to a different connector for their lithium battery backs. Bummed.

Anybody remember the mess with computer cabling to multiple peripherals before USB? ; }
 
I had found an SAE battery pigtail that was rated for starter packs at one point, but the company then switched to a different connector for their lithium battery backs. Bummed.

Anybody remember the mess with computer cabling to multiple peripherals before USB? ; }
anybody still have a tangle of wires due to usb, micro usb, mini usb, and usb C.....just pick a standard and stay with it....
 
Your interpretation of the YOP sounds plausible CapeMan; being part of an optional circuit.

The heated grips attachment kit goes w/the sold separately grip/sub harness. The 12v socket goes w/the sold separately sub harness/relay set as you all know.
I'm thinking of leaving the socket in the wire bundle and install it below the seat L/H side and putting a fused SAE connection inside the frunk, off the battery.
By SAE connector you guys are talking the same 2 wire connector on a Battery Tender, I'm thinking.
 
Your interpretation of the YOP sounds plausible CapeMan; being part of an optional circuit.

The heated grips attachment kit goes w/the sold separately grip/sub harness. The 12v socket goes w/the sold separately sub harness/relay set as you all know.
I'm thinking of leaving the socket in the wire bundle and install it below the seat L/H side and putting a fused SAE connection inside the frunk, off the battery.
By SAE connector you guys are talking the same 2 wire connector on a Battery Tender, I'm thinking.

Yep - the same 2 wire connector that Battery Tender uses.

I used to think of SAE connectors as strictly in-line plugs but got to checking around and found a bulkhead mount which I installed in my frunk, like this:

Bulkhead_SAE.JPG

Cost was pretty low, maybe $15 or a bit less. Be sure to install with the correct polarity if the one you get doesn't have color coded wires ... you'll want the positive battery terminal connected to the shrouded female pin, not to the exposed male pin.

I also use this same connector to power my heated jacket - the wiring harness for it just plugs into this connector then runs thru a small grommeted hole in the back of the frunk and the heated gear plug then conveniently winds up right in front of the seat. This approach also minimizes the number of connections made directly to the battery terminals, which is a good thing - too many connections stacked up on a terminal can be difficult to keep mechanically tight and can cause poor conductivity.
 
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