Okay.. What did I do wrong ?

[Ponyperformance8]

Have you looked at a good parts diagram yet? Why not?

If you have, I'm sorry. What did you see there? Be a good person and tell me, save me from having to look myself. Thanks.

Like this ? Part in question is 15 and current question is if I can turn them out without a real a** pain or if I am better off biting the bullet and replacing the hub.

 

[Ponyperformance8]

Don't know if it's the recommended way, but you could put two nuts on it, lock them together, then wrench it out like a bolt with a head on it.

Reasonable idea, thank you for the suggestion, may be better than mine.

 

[Ponyperformance8]

By the way..

Instead of calling me out for seeking out official advice, For the first one who can show me any official service manual for the NC700 that says anything other than 80 ft. lbs for those nuts, I will gladly shut up about this and send you $10 on Paypal for proving me wrong.

I'm really not trying to be a jerk here, I came around looking for help, and this forum used to be filled with people that had a genuine desire to help others get out there and ride, there are some of us still here, but I can see that some things have changed.

 

[AsureDawn]

Like this:
[video=youtube_share;66ATKL4G04M]https://youtu.be/66ATKL4G04M[/video]

Note, it's important to lube here, as if the stud is seized, it may snap when you try to remove it. Also, this assumes the stud is threaded in. From the diagram, that appears to be the case, but I'd have to check a manual to be sure.

 

[Ponyperformance8]

Like this:
[video=youtube_share;66ATKL4G04M]https://youtu.be/66ATKL4G04M[/video]

Note, it's important to lube here, as if the stud is seized, it may snap when you try to remove it. Also, this assumes the stud is threaded in. From the diagram, that appears to be the case, but I'd have to check a manual to be sure.

Thanks asure, I will give it a shot, I guess what is the worst that could happen right ??

 

[turbodieseli4i6]

How did you go about loosening the studs from the hub? Just put a locking wrench on there and turn it out ?

Honestly I don't remember, that was back in 2013. I was pissed at the workmanship from Honda though, and I did not torque them back to 80 lb/ft, but have kept an eye on it for the last 30,000 miles.

 

[kumatae]

Changing out the chain and front and rear sprockets today...

Removed rear sprocket, called dealer to get torque specs on rear sprocket nuts from the maintenance manual. He called back and said 80 foot lbs.... No problem.

Set torque on 3/5 nuts to 80 foot lbs (with torque wrench), but 2/5 nuts now spin on the studs and won't hold torque... what gives ?

Thanks for the help here guys.

Will

Hi Will,

Hate to be the one but you do sound jerkish to the people who will and have responded to this post. Maybe perhaps you should read your very first post. You only ask for what happened to your situation and not a solution, your quotes were ".... what gives?" It's not until your third post that you are asking for advice on a potential solution and by then I'm guessing people might not have read all of the responses. Maybe next time you should give your thread a better title than "okay.. what did I do wrong?" with a description of potential solution you are looking for and you'll get the responses you are looking for. Hope you find a good solution to help others in similar situation.

Btw, looks like there's a true auction on eBay for a rear sprocket hub with 0 bids at $22.49 with free shipping and 5 days left. Guessing this is not a part in demand so you could possibly get a good deal.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

 

[Ponyperformance8]

Hi Will,

Hate to be the one but you do sound jerkish to the people who will and have responded to this post. Maybe perhaps you should read your very first post. You only ask for what happened to your situation and not a solution, your quotes were ".... what gives?" It's not until your third post that you are asking for advice on a potential solution and by then I'm guessing people might not have read all of the responses. Maybe next time you should give your thread a better title than "okay.. what did I do wrong?" with a description of potential solution you are looking for and you'll get the responses you are looking for. Hope you find a good solution to help others in similar situation.

Btw, looks like there's a true auction on eBay for a rear sprocket hub with 0 bids at $22.49 with free shipping and 5 days left. Guessing this is not a part in demand so you could possibly get a good deal.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

I may have been able to phrase it better, but I guess I thought the request for solution was implied. Anyway, the issue will get resolved. I appreciate all the helpful responses I did recieve though.

 

[OneGun]

OP, I don't see any posts where anyone's calling you out or anything even resembling negativity/ridicule. Sometimes written word conveys the wrong tone, but I'm just not seeing anything that warrants being defensive.

Anyway, I hope you get this worked out somehow... maybe look into the price of a hub. Or maybe just take the hub apart and have a look behind the studs. I'd be interested to see what it looks like.

Good luck.

 

[turbodieseli4i6]

looks like there's a true auction on eBay for a rear sprocket hub with 0 bids at $22.49 with free shipping and 5 days left. Guessing this is not a part in demand so you could possibly get a good deal.

Great price! I gave $60.00 for mine.

 

[dduelin]

Pics from the Honda Service Manual.

 

[670cc]

I'm guessing post #2 may have set things off.

I would have to agree.

 

[L.B.S.]

I'm always leery of steel studs threaded into aluminum...

I haven't suffered a sprocket stud issue (well yet, anyway, lol) but was cursed with a few Yamahas that I purchased second hand, that had a positive gleeful penchant for breaking off, and/or spitting out their exhaust header studs, leaving the "hotdog in a hallway" syndrome if you know what I mean...

Gah, horrid things.

Much empathy to you guys that have this crop up!!

 

[Ponyperformance8]

Great price! I gave $60.00 for mine.

Hey you guys rock, I will take a look ! I will also take some pictures of the backside of this hub for interest sake.. same if I try to get the studs out.

 

[Ponyperformance8]

Pics from the Honda Service Manual.

Thanks Dave ! Maybe Ill put together some pics or a short video in the days to come

 

[Ponyperformance8]

I'm guessing post #2 may have set things off.

Agreed on both posts.. and hey I could have handled it better too, today was just not my day I guess.

Again apologies for sounding like a jerk.

But on the upside, the tail end of this thread has been awesome, just like the good ole days from everyone I knew I could count one ! Thanks 670CC, TurboDiesel and Dduelin Same to anyone else I forgot!

 

[wideguy]

Sorry, I made a bad assumption that Honda had made the cush drive hub like everyone has been making them for decades, with studs that just push in from the inside. Sometimes those stick in the hole. Not often.
It's still not a bad idea to tap on the screwed in studs Honda used after applying penetrating oil and heat... unless they come our easily.

And if you want to torque the nuts back on to 80 ft/lbs, go right ahead.

 

[wideguy]

Just for interest sake, I marked the factory installed location of a couple of my sprocket nuts- just a pencil line on the sprocket where one point of the nut was aligned- then I loosened them.
It took 65 ft. lbs. of torque to break them loose, and 60 ft. lbs. to return them to their original position, so I'm going to say that 80 ft.lbs. is a misprint, and the factory installs them to 60, but, like I said before, use 80 if you want to.

 

[showkey]

The misprint is the likely answer, unless Honda decide this needed to be a high grade bolt. Which is not likely.

The misprint could be the spec is 80 Nm which convert to about 60 Ftlbs.
The fastener in question is 12mm. It is interesting that other bikes of similar size use smaller fasteners in this location.





As for fasteners into aluminum, there is a standard that says if the fastener engagement threads are twice the diameter. In this case 12 x2 would be 24mm. When the fastener is over torqued the fastener will break before the threads are stripped. This standard assumes low or std grade bolts and proper thread engagement. If these are high grade fasteners it would explain why the threads pulled. This is often seen on the those 6mm bolts that break right at the thread to shank area.

 

[ste7ios]

The needed torque depends on various factors like bolt grade, the existence of a lubricant or not, etc...

For a 12mm (1.75 thread pitch) metric bolt with 8.8 grade torque is 88 N·m (65 lbf·ft) for dry & clean surfaces and 66 N·m (49 lbf·ft) for a lubricated one or 126 N·m (93 lbf·ft) for a 10.9 grade bolt... etc as defined by ISO 898-1 standard.

Honda's choice doesn't seem so weird but it's always a good idea to cross check everything... The same values are used in many other models like CB900F (MY '01).

Also note that the general (when not specified) torque value for 12mm fasteners is only 54 N·m (40 lbf·ft)

I'm really curious why did this happened...

Are there any marks or numbers on the bolts?


Recently I broke two bolts but it was totally my mistake. I thought that they were bigger and they also had some oil them, so I overtorque them... :-/