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Trunk Key Elimination

Cap44

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Has anybody here replaced the key for the trunk and passenger seat with a lever of some kind. I have bent the key over twice now just sliding myself past the parked bike in the garage and one of these times it's gonna break. It is also so inconvenient to have to shut the bike off just to get into the trunk
 
Many people, including me, have made a dedicated key/knob for the frunk/seat lock. There are 10 pages of postings about it here: https://www.nc700-forum.com/threads/creating-a-dedicated-key-for-the-storage-compartment.393/

We don’t know the year of your motorcycle and it’s key style, thus can’t say if it will work for you. For the old school, non HISS keys, a spare key can be made and shortened, so it will work in the frunk lock but is too short to operate the ignition switch.
 
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I have a wave key blank on order (back order) just for making a knob key for my frunk. Dang thing is nearly $30 and then I still have to have it machined (cut). Think I will leave it full length though so I can use it as an emergency ignition key if necessary. I don't care if the knob sticks up a bit in the frunk. Will just have to look at it when I get all the pieces together. (key, knob, epoxy lol)
 

I believe this is a thread that I referenced when I made my emergency release for the frunk. The little black "Tug" that you see is stainless steel cord wrapped with electric tape so that it was low visibility. I can pull that to let myself into the frunk anytime. That being said, I have never had to use it as I always use a dedicated Frunk key.
In the rear, I have 2 braided stainless steel cables that I pull from each side and tuck underneath the rails which allow me to access the gas in case the lock were to fail
 

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I know this is an old post, but if possible I'm wondering if you could elaborate on how the "active" end of your trunk pull cable is connected. Awesome high res pics, but still not sure how to replicate your handiwork. :)
 
if you could elaborate on how the "active" end of your trunk pull cable is connected.
If by active, you mean the end that attaches to the latch, it looks like he simply bent his cable around the latch mechanism. Some of those are hardened or stiff steel, even if they are stranded. I would probably get some stainless steel aircraft cable, go to hopot and buy some of their crimp sleeves for either electrical work or (preferably) the crimp sleeves used on garage door cables (but sized for the small diameter aircraft cable you have). I would then make a loop around the latch mechanism and crimp the loop.

The other end - that you grab to pull - should be hidden, perhaps taped to a piece of the frame with black tape so it is not obvious. I'd use electrical tape, and fold the last half inch back on itself to give you a non stick tab to untape the cable.
 
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