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I had to use my secret emergency release a couple weeks ago. Lock cylinder had become gunked up. Got it open with ‘cable‘ I added, removed lock and cleaned it. All good again. If you haven’t done this yet I highly recommend !!!
Rear wheel from 2015 NC700XD, will fit other years. About 80,000 miles on it, bearings in good shape (replaced awhile ago) 90 degree steel stem. I was keeping this wheel for my dirt tire and other wheel for street tires, makes swapping out easy. No longer doing dirt. Scratched but works fine, no...
I’ve probably spent the same amount on all the cheaper plastic throttle locks that didn’t work very good as I spent on the Atlas. Atlas is best one I’ve found and once you get the friction pad fine tuned it just works. I have the ‘bottom’ model and the thin design makes it the least intrusive...
Yes, out of a black cutting board, a couple eyebolts to go into the latches, and I needed to use some wooden spacers underneath to get it to sit in the position I wanted. I’ll try to get more pictures sometime when I pull off my bags.
I resolved the pillion seat problem by replacing it with a platform with a cutout for the fuel fill. I’m using Mosko Moto but this opens the door to more options.
As I see it, engine wear is a direct correlation to the performance of the oil and the comments are relative. I’ve had other Blackstone reports where comments discussed oil shear which is indicated by the viscosity part of the report. And ya, they have to go by your reported miles and can’t...
My last report suggested going to 9500 miles for next oil change. I might take it to 10,000, easier to remember. I had about 82,000 miles on engine when tested.
It does have some glare. The case only attaches to the back so it’s the tablet screen that’s exposed. I might try a non-glare screen saver at some point. The DMD2 app is fully configurable and has a road book mode for rally’s and OBD2 integration with Bluetooth obdii reader, although I don’t...
Some that I have used:
Shinko 705 150/70
TKC70 Rocks 150/70
Avon Trail Rider 160/60
Battlax T31 160/60
Battlax BT-023 160/60
This list shows the miles I got on each tire. They were not always worn out when I switched them out.
More progress today. Dug out the connector for the linear solenoids. Connector is buried under the frunk, not fun. Buzz went away when I disconnected the solenoids. I checked resistance, spec is between 5.0 and 5.6 ohms at 68 degrees. I got 6.1 ohms on each of the solenoids at 86 degrees.
I...
I’m not sure about the ones under the seat, I am talking about the ones behind the right clutch cover. I am guessing it is these solenoids making the buzz because I don’t see any other moving electrical parts in this location. And like you mentioned earlier the sound could be being transmitted...
Point taken on the stethoscope. I use a piece of tubing usually. Do you have a DCT? Have you noticed this buzzing near the clutch cover? I have a SCS connector ordered so I can check if there are any stored MIL codes. I am also just going to find the connector for the solenoids and disconnect to...
Thanks but no, not the fuel pump for sure. If I press my ear against clutch cover that is definitely the source. The buzz is constant as long as the key is on and the engine is off. I’m not sure if it makes the noise with the engine running because the noise is very subtle.
2015 DCT with 81,000 miles.
So I happened to have my key turned on and engine was off and could hear a very faint buzz . I put my head near the right side engine case and could hear a faint electrical type buzzing or humming noise. If I put my ear against the clutch cover it sounded like it...