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Valve Clearance Check

So just put her in nutural then turn the rear wheel to advice positions to bottom for intake and top for exhaust to check each one it seems. So these are like my old bmwr7505r air heads correct...just screw type adjustment?
Very similar. The NC provides a bolt head on the left end of the crankshaft to turn the engine over to align the timing marks so you don't have to move it via the rear wheel. Then it's screw and lock nut adjustment just like an airhead.
 
So just put her in nutural then turn the rear wheel to advice positions to bottom for intake and top for exhaust to check each one it seems. So these are like my old bmwr7505r air heads correct...just screw type adjustment?

If the goal is to turn the crankshaft by rotating the rear wheel, I don't think being in neutral is going to get it done.

As dduelin says, there's a way to do it by turning the crank directly with a wrench.

Greg
 
Not in neutral, cause you would be spinning your rear wheel, putting it in a higher gear would allow you to spin the engine providing that the rear wheel was off the ground.

But a better way is to remove the inspection cover(s) one on the head up near the valve cover, other timing hole cap, Crankshaft hole cap. as this is where your timing marks and adjustment's are that you will be using for a accurate adjustment, once your marks are lined up for the corresponding valves then they can be inspected/adjusted.

Then advance them to the next timing mark, for the next valves to be adjusted, using a socket wrench to advance the engine to the next timing marks.

It is best to buy a service manual for this bike, if you plan on doing your own work.
 
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Sorry to sound stupid, but with this type of setup, you do not need shims right? I am assumuing you just either loosen or tighten the bolts above the valve and use a feeler gauge to get the desired gap?

Do you still have to rotate the crank or rear wheel to get the valves into a desired position to measure?

All my experiences with valve clearance check and shim replacements have been with bikes that don't have this type of setup. I have never checked valve clearances on a car before.
 
Sorry to sound stupid, but with this type of setup, you do not need shims right? I am assumuing you just either loosen or tighten the bolts above the valve and use a feeler gauge to get the desired gap?

Do you still have to rotate the crank or rear wheel to get the valves into a desired position to measure?

All my experiences with valve clearance check and shim replacements have been with bikes that don't have this type of setup. I have never checked valve clearances on a car before.

No shims needed. They are screw and locknut adjusters. Crank/cam needs to be positioned so the valve being measured/adjusted is not being actuated. Directions are in Honda NC700 shop manual, but not in owner's manual.

Most cars have hydraulic lifters which automatically take up valve lash, hence no adjustment needed.. The NC does not have hydraulic lifters.

Greg
 
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I like the photos and the write up - very good.

Just a bit concerned that some seem to be encouraging "valve rocker virgins" to have a go as it's so easy but they probably need a "how to" which shows :-

* Where to find the timing marks

* Which valves to adjust at which timing mark

* How to turn the crankshaft

* Which WAY to turn the crankshaft

* How to get the air from the cooling system when you refill

* What size spanners you need - (not much point draining coolant, removing rocker cover - oops, don't have that size spanner :()

etc.


I would willingly do a step by step guide myself but as I only have about 1300 miles on the clock - don't hold your breath!
 
If you use metric feeler gauges, just make sure to switch your speedometer to km/h first. Also, for the first 100km afterwards you will need to drive on the other side of the road. Unless you're in Canada, of course, in which case none of the above applies but you do have to remember to allow for the exchange rate.
 
This is the second bike I've owned with screw-type valves -- and oh my god, it makes life so much easier. Shim under bucket vs Screw Type is like carburetors vs fuel injection in terms of ease of maintenance. Night and day.
 
It's a good pictorial, but seeing the engine taken apart like that turns my stomach. I just know I'd do it wrong or ride around, forever, with that sinking feeling that it was wrong.
 
It's a good pictorial, but seeing the engine taken apart like that turns my stomach. I just know I'd do it wrong or ride around, forever, with that sinking feeling that it was wrong.

You'd be surprised how easy it can be. Especially if you got a shop manual and sat down with a cup of tea and a snack, to peruse through what you needed to do.

I don't think you give yourself enough credit, buddy. :)
 
Where you got your fork protectors??? Looks real good...

I want to get them too... Site?
Fork protectors are a Triumph Motorcycle accessory. You buy them from a Triumph dealer.
Do a search on this Forum and you will find the Triumph part number. They are about $20 a pair.
 
Where you got your fork protectors??? Looks real good...

I want to get them too... Site?

Triumph part number A9641010. I got mine from bikebandit, and I really like them. We were warned by HONDABIKEPRO that they could interfere if you have the Honda light bar installed.

Greg
 
I'm just coming up on 8K miles, so I'll be doing the valve inspection soon. I've done it on my KLR650 which uses shims... this looks so much easier. Thanks for the pictures and guidance!
 
I was going to try to make a how to video this year, but the weather has turned too cold at night here and I only have 1300 miles on the NC. So that video will need to wait till after next season. The valve adjustment on the NC is simple, it really looks more complicated than it actually is. Awesome pics, and write up.
 
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