BrinkHouse
New Member
I just installed a pair of Shinko 705's on my NCX today, I love them so far and the look they give the bike is outstanding, IMO. I ordered a slightly larger front, a 130/80/17 to be exact. My front fender didn't like this. Luckily it wasn't much of a talker and I quickly pulled out the tools. This mod may be necessary for other tires as well, depending on the tread and if you find yourself in a situation where you can't purchase the EXACT size as stock. Below is a basic guide on how I DIY'd a fender riser for $5.
Here are the parts I used:
1) 4-pack of 2" mending plates
Everbilt 2 in. Zinc Plated Mending Plates (4-Pack)-15299 at The Home Depot
4) 6mm cap screw or hex head bolts (mine were 20mm long but you could probably get away with 14 or 16mm length, as well)
6 mm x 16 mm Socket Cap Screw (2-Pieces)-82648 at The Home Depot
4) 6mm nuts
I started by drilling the mending plates up to 3/16th from what looked like 5/32 so that the bolts could fit through. The plates I used were 2" but you could get taller ones if you wanted more lift from the fender. I threaded the new bolt into the axle with a little blue loctite (since it won't receive a nut on the other side, though you could add one if you wanted) I used the stock bolts for the top hole of the plate, tightened with a nut on the inside.
The upper two bolts were not plated, I simply threaded the original bolts back in and tightened them. Inside the fender is an X brace that is threaded so you won't have to put a nut on the inside. Helpful! I figured the lower and back mount points were sufficient to hold the fender securely. The thing doesn't way much after all and never supports a load.
For the back, where you have a 6mm hex head bolt on either side, I removed the brake line clip and passed a cap screw through it and the plate, tightened with a nut on the inside. The top bolt will thread back into the X brace mounted inside the fender.
The benefit of the thin steel plate is that it will conform to meet the shape of the fender, as it doesn't sit flush with the axle mounting hole. This keeps the plastic from warping or breaking from stress. As well, the axle tab has a slight recess, which is used to keep the brake line clip from rotating. We'll use this to keep our plate from rotating instead. This will make sure the fender doesn't shift forward or backward from vibration.
Next just tighten everything up and you are good to ride, with the confidence and security that a rock isn't going to get jammed into your fender.
Here are the parts I used:
1) 4-pack of 2" mending plates
Everbilt 2 in. Zinc Plated Mending Plates (4-Pack)-15299 at The Home Depot
4) 6mm cap screw or hex head bolts (mine were 20mm long but you could probably get away with 14 or 16mm length, as well)
6 mm x 16 mm Socket Cap Screw (2-Pieces)-82648 at The Home Depot
4) 6mm nuts
I started by drilling the mending plates up to 3/16th from what looked like 5/32 so that the bolts could fit through. The plates I used were 2" but you could get taller ones if you wanted more lift from the fender. I threaded the new bolt into the axle with a little blue loctite (since it won't receive a nut on the other side, though you could add one if you wanted) I used the stock bolts for the top hole of the plate, tightened with a nut on the inside.
The upper two bolts were not plated, I simply threaded the original bolts back in and tightened them. Inside the fender is an X brace that is threaded so you won't have to put a nut on the inside. Helpful! I figured the lower and back mount points were sufficient to hold the fender securely. The thing doesn't way much after all and never supports a load.
For the back, where you have a 6mm hex head bolt on either side, I removed the brake line clip and passed a cap screw through it and the plate, tightened with a nut on the inside. The top bolt will thread back into the X brace mounted inside the fender.
The benefit of the thin steel plate is that it will conform to meet the shape of the fender, as it doesn't sit flush with the axle mounting hole. This keeps the plastic from warping or breaking from stress. As well, the axle tab has a slight recess, which is used to keep the brake line clip from rotating. We'll use this to keep our plate from rotating instead. This will make sure the fender doesn't shift forward or backward from vibration.
Next just tighten everything up and you are good to ride, with the confidence and security that a rock isn't going to get jammed into your fender.