DIY Garage door opener - cost $0.00

[JDE]

Stables are places for horses that are not being ridden. Garages are places for iron horses that are not being ridden. Just leave Nana Chou outside, ready to roll.

In my neck of the woods, a garage is where the iron horse goes if I don't want her stolen in the middle of the night. If she's left out front in the drive way, it's too easy for some one in a pick-up truck and a couple buddies to just pick her up and drive off with my bike in the back of the truck. When not being ridden, she's in the garage and my 12yr old car is in the driveway.

 

[ray-zin]

This is really an awesome mod. Simple but brilliant. Right now I have my remote hanging around my neck everywhere I go. I'm definitely gonna give this one a go. Thanks for posting!

 

[Cagedodger]

Stables are places for horses that are not being ridden. Garages are places for iron horses that are not being ridden. Just leave Nana Chou outside, ready to roll.

In my neck of the woods, a garage is where the iron horse goes if I don't want her stolen in the middle of the night. If she's left out front in the drive way, it's too easy for some one in a pick-up truck and a couple buddies to just pick her up and drive off with my bike in the back of the truck. When not being ridden, she's in the garage and my 12yr old car is in the driveway.

In my world, a garage is a workshop/brewery where I store my plastic pony when I'm drinkin'!

Heh... ok, that's a huge exaggeration. I store it there when I'm doing other stuff as well. I think I've pulled my 16 year old truck into my garage once... to unload some lumber or something: my truck doesn't get a lot of miles put on it. My bikes on the other hand always stay in the garage when I'm home. That was the whole point of the garage after all, right?

 

[Adriel]

I was installing the Honda heated grips this weekend, and since I had installed the high-beam-activated garage door opener on my previous bike I thought it would be an opportune time to install the same thing here. Turns out, Honda prewired the bike for this mod!

If you pull the left side panels off, you can find an accessory connector attached to a dummy plug under the frunk. The heated grips make use of this accessory connector, and in tracing the wiring in the Honda manual I discovered what the four wires carry:

- Green for ground
- Red/white for constant power (shared on a 7.5 amp fuse with the clock unit)
- Violet/Red for switched power (active if you install the optional micro relay and 7.5 amp fuse in the fuse panel - $10 from Honda)
- Blue for high beams!

(This connector is labeled "Option" in the Honda service manual circuit diagram)





The Honda heated grip accessory harness doesn't actually carry a wire for the red/white, so I snipped before the connector and tapped it for my constant power 12 volt socket in the frunk.





OK, back to the garage door opener. The OP posted a great tutorial at the start of this thread, but I'll give some shots here just to show how simple this is to do. Starting with a standard Genie opener, any generic will do as well, as long as it uses a 12v battery.



Pop it open, desolder the switches and battery contacts.



Solder a jumper in place of the main switch (to create the effect of the main switch always being pressed), and solder the power leads on (make sure to color code them the same polarity as the battery - I blew one opener because I accidentally switched polarity - oops!).



Wrap it all up in a ziplock bag and seal with electrical tape.



Test by applying the original battery against your new leads. All told it only takes about ten minutes to do the conversion work.

Now just wire it into the harness - blue for positive, green for ground. (Again, make sure to get the polarity right!) I was using the Honda heated grip accessory harness here, which carries one pig tail from the "optional" connector specifically with the necessary blue and green wires.



The opener itself can tuck into the box that holds the ECU, behind the frunk. (I'm assuming this empty space is for the ABS unit, it may not be empty on a DCT bike so you would need to find another space for the opener).



While I was in there, I took an additional tap of switched power from the "optional circuit" (violet/red and green) shared with the heated grips, and lead it up to another 12 volt socket on my handlebars for a heated vest. The heated grips use only 35 watts, about half the amperage available on that circuit/fuse, plenty left for my heated vest.

Took awhile to get all the body panels back on! Only hole drilled was in the frunk for the 12V socket - already nicely marked out by the Honda folks.

Just a side note, a garage door opener remote will only fire once when power is applied, so no worries about driving down the road constantly pinging your code out to the neighborhood when you have your high beams on.

There's just something powerful about flashing your high beams as you ride up to your home on a cold miserable night and have the garage door rise on command!

 

[ray-zin]

Thanks for the awesome pics. This is going to help me a lot when I attempt this mod.

 

[nemesis98]

I was installing the Honda heated grips this weekend, and since I had installed the high-beam-activated garage door opener on my previous bike I thought it would be an opportune time to install the same thing here. Turns out, Honda prewired the bike for this mod!

If you pull the left side panels off, you can find an accessory connector attached to a dummy plug under the frunk. The heated grips make use of this accessory connector, and in tracing the wiring in the Honda manual I discovered what the four wires carry:

- Green for ground
- Red/white for constant power (shared on a 7.5 amp fuse with the clock unit)
- Violet/Red for switched power (active if you install the optional micro relay and 7.5 amp fuse in the fuse panel - $10 from Honda)
- Blue for high beams!

(This connector is labeled "Option" in the Honda service manual circuit diagram)

View attachment 6743

View attachment 6744

The Honda heated grip accessory harness doesn't actually carry a wire for the red/white, so I snipped before the connector and tapped it for my constant power 12 volt socket in the frunk.

View attachment 6745

View attachment 6746

OK, back to the garage door opener. The OP posted a great tutorial at the start of this thread, but I'll give some shots here just to show how simple this is to do. Starting with a standard Genie opener, any generic will do as well, as long as it uses a 12v battery.

View attachment 6747

Pop it open, desolder the switches and battery contacts.

View attachment 6748

Solder a jumper in place of the main switch (to create the effect of the main switch always being pressed), and solder the power leads on (make sure to color code them the same polarity as the battery - I blew one opener because I accidentally switched polarity - oops!).

View attachment 6749

Wrap it all up in a ziplock bag and seal with electrical tape.

View attachment 6750

Test by applying the original battery against your new leads. All told it only takes about ten minutes to do the conversion work.

Now just wire it into the harness - blue for positive, green for ground. (Again, make sure to get the polarity right!) I was using the Honda heated grip accessory harness here, which carries one pig tail from the optional connector specifically with necessary the blue and green wires.

View attachment 6751

The opener itself can tuck into the box that holds the ECU, behind the frunk. (I'm assuming this empty space is for the ABS unit, it may not be empty on a DCT bike so you would need to find another space for the opener).

View attachment 6752

While I was in there, I took an additional tap of switched power from the "optional circuit" (violet/red and green) shared with the heated grips, and lead it up to another 12 volt socket on my handlebars for a heated vest. The heated grips use only 35 watts, about half the amperage available on that circuit/fuse, plenty left for my heated vest.

Took awhile to get all the body panels back on! Only hole drilled was in the frunk for the 12V socket - already nicely marked out by the Honda folks.

Just a side note, a garage door opener remote will only fire once when power is applied, so no worries about driving down the road constantly pinging your code out to the neighborhood when you have your high beams on.

There's just something powerful about flashing your high beams as you ride up to your home on a cold miserable night and have the garage door rise on command!

WOW! I am impressed! You did a super great job on yours! And I thought mine was decent - whew! Great job!

 

[donjuanlucas]

thermometer installation

Hi I am impress about your exhaustive job, which invite me to update my nc700x with an air thermometer (under key)
an avoid the sub harness.
I brought the relay and fuse kit (just to make it works under key)
What do you think if I connect the red (positive) cable to the violet/red socket and the black (negative) to the green socket?
or is better connect the negative directly to the the bike frame?

 

[Erik]

Nice mod! I already have a key pad on my garage so i'm not going to do this, but still nice.