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Jump Starting NC700X DCT?

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Hello,

I have a NC700X DCT with 1000 miles and coming back from 3 weeks away, bike doesn't start. I think my battery has drained from the USB power plug I have installed in the frunk that is wired straight to the battery terminal.... So, I try to jump start it from my car (by connecting jump cables straight to the battery terminal) and it's a no go. All I hear is a clicking of the starter relay when pushing the start button. Looks like there is not enough juice to get the starter to go. Am I doing something wrong with the jump cables? I assume there should be plenty of juice from the car battery. I put the 700 battery en charge, hopefully, that will fix the issue. Hopefully, it's not something wrong with the starter or its relay.
 
If you had your car hooked up properly you would have had the juice.

Maybe your battery terminals were dirty/corroded enough to cause the problem. They don't have to be visibly corroded to prevent enough current flow.
 
jump cables connection is good. All electrical items on 700 working fine. I just hear the starter relay clicking. I read somewhere you can do a DCT reset... Maybe because the battery was totally drained, something got funky in the DCT electronics?
 
So starter relay is clicking fine but starter won't run. Starter works if I connect 12v directly to it. I am going to try starting the bike this way to see if that works.
 
SUCCESS! So, after reinstalling the charged battery which read 13.5V on my multimeter, still no go, click, click every time I press the starter button. I then took the jumper cables attached to my car battery, clamp the negative to the rear brake pedal and with ignition on, made contact with the positive jumper clamp and the positive post on the starter and wrooom, bike started. Let it ran for a couple minutes, disconnected jumper cables and then bike could stop/start from its own battery at will. Who said gremlins?
 
But it would not start after I reinstall the charged battery.... It only started to work after I jumped start the starter with ignition on. Weird...
 
But it would not start after I reinstall the charged battery.... It only started to work after I jumped start the starter with ignition on. Weird...

According to the troubleshooting guide in the shop manual, the conditions you describe are attributed to either a wire connection problem at the starter or the battery, or a defective starter relay. With all the juggling of wires, you might have regained conductivity. To ward off a repeat, I would suggest that you remove all of the connections between the battery, starter relay, and starter and clean and re-torque them. I use DeoxIT from Caig Labs on problem connections. After they are cleaned and re-torqued, I coat them lightly with silicone grease.

Side note: I had a KLR once that would show these symptoms and all it took to get it running was a good thwack on the starter relay with the back end of a screwdriver. Then it would work for another several months. KLR riders aren't supposed to spend money.
 
One other note...........do not be surprised if the battery takes a crap in the near future........complete discharged "completely dead" condition is tough on the battery.
 
It is not clear to me whether the OP's battery was ever fully dead as he presumed because hooking up the cables didn't bring it to life either. If there was nothing in the USB adapter it should not pull more than a few milliamps (assuming that it is a switching regulator design). At 5ma, the draw over three weeks would be about 2.5 amp-hours on a 12 amp-hour battery (if fully charged to fully depleted). If it is the cheapo zener diode type it will draw nothing without a load on it.

But yes, a battery taken to zero is a damaged battery.
 
...charged battery ... read 13.5V on my multimeter ....

Your 13.5V measurement of battery voltage just after charging is not accurate indication of battery condition. Every charging process creates "surface" charge, more or less, depending from volume of charging current and time. That is why measurement should be taken after while after charging, at least 1 hour in "no load" condition. If charging was performed with battery connected to bike's circuit, just turning ignition key for about 3 min then wait another 10 min should remove effect of "surface" charge (or wait for 1 hour).
In "normal" operation (no accidental deep discharge) if voltage measure is less than 12.5V (before charging) you may start looking for replacement. If "accidental" discharge caused drop of battery voltage below 10.5V, that is equivalent of "massive heart attack" - permanent damage to battery lead plates due to electrochemical process.
Cranking voltage about 10V and above is permitted, but not below 9.5V. That is another method how to test ability of battery.
 
Take a look at Yuasa's Technical Manual for proper measurement, state of charge table etc...

http://www.yuasabatteries.com/pdfs/TechManual_2014.pdf

Also note that the usable capacity of lead-acid battery is about the half of the rated capacity (because of the voltage drop).

So, the usable capacity of YTZ-12S is about 5 Ah, not 11.6 Ah (20Hr rating). If your voltmeter readings are bellow 12.5V (SoC bellow 50%) you may consider to replace it before the winter...

I would suggest to monitor your battery periodically to have an idea what's going on... Probably you may need a charger to keep it fully charged...
 
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