Lifting the NC700x

[JoeZ]

Ok, I'm thinking of removing the front forks to slip on some Gators. Would like to just slip the forks right out without removing the wheel (minus dis-attaching the brake line of course . If I can just lift the front end up high enough, I can slip down and out the entire front end without having to take the wheel off. So, has anyone done this? I do have a center stand on the bike but that only gives me about 2 inches of lift to the front. Any ideas? Car Jacks seems out of the question, Bottom of our NCs don't seem to have a flat bottom base :-/)

 

[670cc]

Wood block under the engine (to protect it), then a car jack. Works fine for "normal" front end work. Get the block/jack as far forward as possible for the biggest tripod.

Personally, I would not try this without first removing the brake caliper, fender, and wheel, then doing one fork at a time. Attempting to make it easier by taking the whole front end out at once will probably just make it more difficult (if not lead to disaster), or a twisted front end after reassembly. If you detach the brake line you will need to bleed the system to remove air.

Using a torque wrench on all front end hardware is critical. Wheel R&R torque values are in the owner's manual, but I think the fork clamp values are only in the service manual.

With the center stand down and the rear wheel in place, there is no way you could lift the front enough to pull the forks off together, unless you parked it so the front end was over a hole in the ground.

 

[bamamate]

I don't think an automotove jack will get it high enough and it would be easy to tip over. If you were in the south, I'd suggest a tree, comealong, and couple of straps.

removing the wheel isn't hard.

 

[DirtFlier]

Even if you could get the bike up in a secure position, I don't think removing the forks & front wheel as one unit is a good idea. Getting it out as one unit is one thing but getting everything aligned to reassemble will be a totally different matter.
As bamamate said, "removing the front wheel isn't hard."

Sometimes spending 20 minutes up front can make a job oh so much easier.

 

[JoeZ]

Thanks guys... After your suggestions I will remove the tire as well. The reason I was thinking of it was because of a YouTube video showing a professional service station doing it that way.... Removing the whole front portion by sliding it down and replacing it by simply sliding it back up. Looked simple enough. As for getting the front high enough. Here's a video (link attached) showing a simple method to use with a standard car jack.
http://youtu.be/9gzVAMwJzC8
I think to balance it I will use straps attached to the cealing of my garage (just for balance). Thanks for you great suggestions!

 

[JoeZ]

Here's a link to the video of the service shop that removed the front end by simply lifting the bike to install the gators on the forks followed by simply sliding the forks back into place. Looks easy :-////). Let me know what you think?
http://youtu.be/3f01g48FbRo

 

[JoeZ]

Oh, and here's the torque specs for anyone interested

 

[DirtFlier]

A good friend installed long eye-bolts into the ceiling above his garage. They ran through 2 x 4s that were braced to the 2 x 6 ceiling joists so they were plenty strong. He used crank-type, tie down straps to pull the front end of the bike off the ground so there wasn't any "balance" necessary since it wasn't going to fall.

 

[L.B.S.]

Sometimes hanging bikes can still wobble a bit too much front to back and side to side; I like to chock the rear wheel and/or try to wedge a couple 2x4's or something from left and right sides of the bike over to a wall or post, or add a few more ratchet straps under tension, on the horizontal plane if possible too.

It's not really for any dangerous safety requirements, it's just to stop a cursing storm from occurring after trying to install heavy interference fit parts into a moving target, lol.

 

[bamamate]

Here's a link to the video of the service shop that removed the front end by simply lifting the bike to install the gators on the forks followed by simply sliding the forks back into place. Looks easy :-////). Let me know what you think?
http://youtu.be/3f01g48FbRo

He used an electric comealong and metal tree. I can see how that would be easier if you can raise and lower the bike. I would think raising and lowering the wheel/forks as a unit by hand may have some difficulties especially if doing this solo.

 

[L.B.S.]

He used an electric comealong and metal tree. I can see how that would be easier if you can raise and lower the bike. I would think raising and lowering the wheel/forks as a unit by hand may have some difficulties especially if doing this solo.

+1 and you definitely would want to have cracked loose all the appropriate fasteners prior to lift off, and maybe consider a back up precaution plan, just in case of the unexpected: "Aw crap!" Murphy's Law effect. That front end complete assembly will be rather ungainly and heavy, if it caught you unawares.

 

[DirtFlier]

One of the major problems with removing the forks & wheel as a unit is that once clear of the lower triple clamp, there is nothing to keep the fork tubes parallel. And I'm assuming you've removed the front fender to prevent damage to the paint. Going back in will be a huge chore, even with help. The front wheel/w forks attached will try to roll away from the bike while getting both fork tubes started into the lower triple clamp at the same time will probably be an experience in total frustration.

Just remove the front wheel and remove the forks one side at a time.

 

[JoeZ]

Although I just bought today a Jack and 2 Lift Stands (too good a deal to pass up for $35) at my local Auto Store. I will most likely be removing the wheel and doing each fork one at a time

 

[DirtFlier]

Eons ago I made a poor man's motorcycle lift. It was used mainly when I needed to remove the front wheel to fit a new tire and it was extremely stable and cheap to build.

The main elements were a mechanical scissor jack from an auto and a 4-ft long 2 x 4. The jack's base was screwed to the center of the 2 x 4, with both axis aligned. At the ends of the 2 x 4, I mounted eye bolts and the nuts were countersunk so the 2 x 4 would still sit flat on the garage floor. The 2 x 4/w jack was slipped under the engine perpendicular to the front-to-rear axis of the bike. And I had a piece of thick rubber secured to the jack's lifting pad to prevent damage to the bottom of the engine but you could also use a scrap of wood.

With the bike on its centerstand for stability, the jack was cranked until the front tire was free of the ground. I then tightened the tie-down straps that ran from the handgrips to the eye bolts. You could do it without a centerstand but you'd need someone to hold the bike while it was raised and secured.

 

[Garnet]

On most bikes removing the rear wheel first allows the front of the bike to be tipped up enough to pull the forks. Sometimes the bike will even balance in that position.

 

[DirtFlier]

With both bikes on the centerstand, my NT700V has a definite rear wheel bias and although the front wheel is touching the ground it can be easily spun with 2 fingers. The NC700X has a lot more weight on the front end because rotating the front wheel to make the tire valve accessible when it's on the centerstand is much more difficult.