• A few people have been scammed on the site, Only use paypal to pay for items for sale by other members. If they will not use paypal, its likely a scam NEVER SEND E-TRANSFERS OF ANY KIND.

Looks like I'll go first -dammit

I would do what was already suggested. Take the pan down and if it's not there slowly rotate the motor to see if it will drop down. You could also use some compressed air to blow from the top. Wish you luck!
 
This pic shows the 2mm hole you have to put a pin into to release the pressure on the tensioner. Mine was easy to take out because IT WAS BROKEN!
DSCN0624 (Medium).JPG
This pic shows where the tensioner is. Right below the thermostat you can see the tensioner.
DSCN0627 (Medium).JPG
This shows the missing part - The left one is new, the right one is missing half the pin that holds that roller in place. It's also the part I cannot find!
DSCN0628 (Small).JPG
This pic shows a piece of metal I did find in the oil pan -I've pulled the oil pan and there's nothing else in it. Gotta get some sealant now- there's no gasket per se.
DSCN0629 (Small).JPG

I've just now figured out how to post the pics using the "advance" setting. Is anyone proud of me? I am!

More coming...
 
My OCD kicked in. Glad it did. I decided since I have 8,000 miles on it, I might as well look at the air filter.
DSCN0638 (Medium).JPG
DSCN0639 (Medium).JPG
DSCN0640 (Medium).JPG

I soaked it in Purple Power and water all night. I used a very soft brush and the water hose to get it clean. Learned this on the Burgman site. It's sitting on a fan right now drying. Looks 100% better. This filter does not look like it will stand but maybe 2 more cleanings -but that saves money!
 
Back to the problem at hand.
I never did find the piece of metal. I've done everything I can or am willing to do to try and find it. (Maybe the "Low Men"gotit -Stephen King reference, anyone get it?).
After I get the oil pan back on, I'm starting this bad boy up.

I may have an NC to part out -seriously. It's been totaled and fixed and I can't get full coverage ins. on it. I really believe in full coverage on a bike. I'm not willing to pay whatever it might cost to fix a fubar engine. I could part it out and get a good down payment on a new one or, if I get lucky, find another good used one.
I will have an NC700X! I love this bike. I'm thinking red....
So, even if I have get rid of this one, I'll still be here.
 
You sure that piece of metal you found wasn't the missing piece of pin? Picture is kinda blurry but looks like a pin with a curve in it????
The air filter replacement is the thing I dread on this bike, all that plastic and pins have to be removed, arghh. Honda makes the valve checks one of the easiest of all bikes but makes the air filter replacement one of the most time consuming.
 
You sure that piece of metal you found wasn't the missing piece of pin? Picture is kinda blurry but looks like a pin with a curve in it????
The air filter replacement is the thing I dread on this bike, all that plastic and pins have to be removed, arghh. Honda makes the valve checks one of the easiest of all bikes but makes the air filter replacement one of the most time consuming.

Yeah, I figured out what the piece of metal I found is - just to add some more crap in the mix. It's a broken piece of the spring that's not on the old tensioner. I just noticed the old tensioner missing the large spring - it's about 3"-4" long. I couldn't find the rest of the spring either. Probably the previous owner could enlighten me but I bought it from a dealer. Dealers are reluctant to give out info on PO's.

That air box is in a great place- only a couple of inches below the handle bars. Too bad the engineers couldn't have made it easier to get to.
 
I hope it fires up for you and runs sweeter than ever. Any idea of how long ago the spring broke?

Thanks for all the helpful info! We all hope we won't have to go searching our crankcases for loose parts, but I for one appreciate finally getting to see where the air filter is.

Does anyone know where to get plastic pins to replace the ones I've already broken? My Honda dealer wasn't very helpful.
 
Those plastic pins can be had at our local Lowe's. They come in different sizes but the don't have to look exactly like the Honda ones. As long as they will fit, thay'll work. Take one of your good ones with you.
 
Does anyone know where to get plastic pins to replace the ones I've already broken? My Honda dealer wasn't very helpful.

Your dealer should have merrily ordered some for you. It's simply a Honda OEM part, part number:
CLIP, TRIM
90683-GAZ-003
$2.15


Find a new dealer or order them on-line.
 
I was too tired to report last night but I got her all put back together and fired her up.

Looks like I'll be riding this horse until the shoes fall off. She sounded sweet!

Going out now for the first ride to meet some old VW buddies for breakfast.

Edit- Just got back. Did about 50 miles. Did interstate speeds for about 13 miles. No problems!
A good end to this thread.
 
Last edited:
Great to hear you successfully got her buttoned back up and on the road, man! Kudos to you for your efforts and thanks for posting up pics and bringing us along ;)

I listed the camchain as my number one dislike of the NCX design, way back amongst my earliest forum posts.

I've only ever had two chain failures on Honda motorcycles in all my years riding, and one of them was a camchain going kablooie, via bad link pin. (1980 CB400T)

The second failure was a Dealer installed rivet master link drive chain. (Different bike, different city, many years later.)



Would it be crass of me to point out they were RIVETED pins that failed in connection with all the chain problems mentioned in this thread, and not circlip types? :p
 
No, it wouldn't be crass!

As a matter of fact (I don't know if I already mentioned it) this was also a rivet that failed.

I was really surprised I got it all put back together and no problems! That's not like me -lol!
 
Congratulations! It's good to know you got it running again!

The plus for the rest of us is that we know something to look out for now. (when working on the cylinder head, stuff a clean rag down the timing belt hole).
 
Congratulations! It's good to know you got it running again!

The plus for the rest of us is that we know something to look out for now. (when working on the cylinder head, stuff a clean lintless rag down the timing belt hole).
That's good advice just for general purpose!
 
Being you (itlives) are a not for real Cajun, north of I-10, I thought you might enjoy this.

[video=youtube;iW4qjPkR-_U]https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=iW4qjPkR-_U[/video]
 
I wish I would have seen this post last week when I did my 16,000 mile valve adjustment. Fingers crossed for the next 8k. I am not going back in there until then. Counter clockwise only!
 
Back
Top