StratTuner
Site Supporter
If you have experience with this tire...
How many miles did they go before you replaced them?
thank you
How many miles did they go before you replaced them?
thank you
Michelin Pilot Road 3 Question
- Thread starter StratTuner
- Start date
dduelin
Site Supporter
Couldn't stand a pair of them on my NC and suffered through about 8000 miles before I took the rear off and replaced it with a Pilot Power. It probably would have gone 10,000 miles but I couldn't.
StratTuner
Site Supporter
My spreadsheet shows that the very first set of PR3's (first and ONLY) went 17,000. I'm trying to see it that's typical or a fluke.
The Conti Motions I love so much have been averaging 8,000 for the last three sets....not very good.
I changed at 10,941 miles on the PR3's, but I rode the snot out of them.
I know your asking about the PR3s and I only road PR4s but I'm currently on a set of Conti Motions. I should be able to give a good comparison of the two from my bike, my riding style, and my same routes. The only difference will be the tire so I'll know soon enough how well they hold up in comparison to the PR4. I averaged around 13,000 - 14,000 on the rear PR4 (definite flat spot at that point) and close to 20K on the front. I have a couple thousand on the Conti Motion now. I'm pretty curious about how the Conti's hold up.
lue42
Member
I am at about 6000km (3700 miles) on my PR3's. I have no other reference (1st bike, 1st tire) but they feel great to me. My tread and shape is the same as new.
GunNut37086
Site Supporter
My PR3 rear has finally gotten to the wear bars and I've got about 12,000 miles on it now. I am very impressed with the tire.
GunNut37086
Site Supporter
What was it about the Pilot Power you liked better?
dduelin
Site Supporter
The PR3 front and Pilot Power rear did not require correction(s) to hold a particular line through a turn. They took set and held it with consistency.
I believe it is the soft sidewalls and cross-section profile on Pilot Road 3 rear tires that I do not like. They squirm enough to change the tire's slip angle in the turn thus requiring a course correction or two. It wasn't so much that I liked the Power beforehand as it was that I had a front PR3 with half it's life left at 8,000 miles and I was willing to try another model of Michelin to cure the vague handling while I rode out the PR3 front. I spoke to it in this thread in posts #18 and 22: Pilot Road 4
I think a big part of it comes back to personal preference and probably several other things like how much the rider weighs, how the bike is loaded down, type of bike and so on. It's funny how when I read your comments about the PR3, its how I feel about the Conti Motions. Especially the part about how they squirm and the vague handling. I feel like I have more of a difficult time keeping a straight line with the Conti Motions than I had with the PR4.
I like how the PR 4 cuts in hard and seems to want to dig into the corners where the Conti Motion feels like the closer you get to the outside edge, the more it wants to stand back up. Obviously, my opinion and my experience. Probably not the same for everyone. I do agree that the PR4 might require a slight course correction in a turn but I would prefer that over a tire that doesn't want to let the bike lay down further. Again, just my feeling on these two tires.
Afan
Elite Member
What tire to choose depends of several factors. How aggressive you ride, 3 or all 4 seasons, performance or longevity...
The main reason I started with PR3 (3 sets ago
) was they are one of the best (if not THE best) on the wet surface - something I, as a new rider, was very afraid off. And, after riding couple times for hours on rain, I'm now totally confident in PR3. And not afraid anymore.
Never had PP tires so can't comment on those...
My rule of thumb, tires are only thing between you and the pavement - buy the best you can afford (plus add $20)
The main reason I started with PR3 (3 sets ago
) was they are one of the best (if not THE best) on the wet surface - something I, as a new rider, was very afraid off. And, after riding couple times for hours on rain, I'm now totally confident in PR3. And not afraid anymore.Never had PP tires so can't comment on those...
My rule of thumb, tires are only thing between you and the pavement - buy the best you can afford (plus add $20
)
StratTuner
Site Supporter
thanks for the learned feedback... i'm just looking for the longest lasting tire for the smallest price....
that isn't always the cheapest tire.... but I would have to get 16K out of the PR3's since they are twice the price.... of course, I should factor in that $100 charge for mounting and balance.... not up to the math of doing that.
that isn't always the cheapest tire.... but I would have to get 16K out of the PR3's since they are twice the price.... of course, I should factor in that $100 charge for mounting and balance.... not up to the math of doing that.
Afan
Elite Member
In my opinion, that's wrong thinking. It works ok for cars, not for motorcycles. I tried to "squeeze out the last tread" out of my rear tire 2 years ago. And I did it. Luckily, I was riding 20 mph, next t friends house. If it happened just a half an hour ago, when on highway, I would have huge hospital bill. Or somewhere 6 feet under. That's how I learned that trying to save some bucks actually can finish much more expensive. You have to be safe.
Listen, I was questioning once on ST-owners Forum, is it really necessary to have $500-$800 helmet? Is it really 5 times better than $100 helmet? Should I really replace my helmet every 5 years? After couple years I learned - yes, you should. I saw images of cheap helmets after an accident, as well as top of the line helmets.
I still can't afford $500 Shoei, but I would squeeze the last penny to buy the best I can afford at the moment. Of course, there are always sales, discounts, etc.
The same is with tires...
I'm not saying you have to buy the most expensive ones. I can't afford either. Many people can't. But I would suggest to buy the best you can afford. Try to save for a couple months. It's wort the trouble or having safe bike
In my opinion, that's wrong thinking. It works ok for cars, not for motorcycles. I tried to "squeeze out the last tread" out of my rear tire 2 years ago. And I did it. Luckily, I was riding 20 mph, next t friends house. If it happened just a half an hour ago, when on highway, I would have huge hospital bill. Or somewhere 6 feet under. That's how I learned that trying to save some bucks actually can finish much more expensive. You have to be safe.
Listen, I was questioning once on ST-owners Forum, is it really necessary to have $500-$800 helmet? Is it really 5 times better than $100 helmet? Should I really replace my helmet every 5 years? After couple years I learned - yes, you should. I saw images of cheap helmets after an accident, as well as top of the line helmets.
I still can't afford $500 Shoei, but I would squeeze the last penny to buy the best I can afford at the moment. Of course, there are always sales, discounts, etc.
The same is with tires...
I'm not saying you have to buy the most expensive ones. I can't afford either. Many people can't. But I would suggest to buy the best you can afford. Try to save for a couple months. It's wort the trouble or having safe bike
Don't get me wrong as I understand what you're saying and I see how the logic applies to a good portion of riders/consumers.
But, basing quality on what is affordable or not affordable brings in a huge variable, which is basically, what are the monetary resources of the buyer?. Businesses price products within a range that brings some sales from people less willing or able to spend, up to prices where only the wealthy might buy in. That spread has something to do with quality, but is also has a lot to do with positioning a product priced for a range of potential buyers, so as to bring in the most sales and the most revenue from the most customers.
A savvy buyer may very well be able to "afford" the entire tire inventory of the local dealer, but might chose the purchase over what is found to be the best value, which might actually be a Shinko 705 or Conti Motion, on the low end of the price range, or it might be a PR4 on the more expensive end. Judging quality solely by price or affordability might be misleading.
Sometimes an inexpensive product might be the best one out there, but some people wouldn't buy it because it's priced low, so how could it possibly be any good?
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GunNut37086
Site Supporter
Ramen noodles are proof that price doesn't always indicate quality.
McDonald's is proof that saving money can often come with risks.
Comparing 705s to PR4s, I'm of the opinion that you pay twice as much for the PR4, but get twice the mileage. When I factored in the cost of changing tires twice as often and my own perceived value of improved performance (especially wet pavement), I chose the Michelins. If I spooned on my own tires, rarely rode in the rain and rode gravel roads more, I might have gone the other direction.
McDonald's is proof that saving money can often come with risks.
Comparing 705s to PR4s, I'm of the opinion that you pay twice as much for the PR4, but get twice the mileage. When I factored in the cost of changing tires twice as often and my own perceived value of improved performance (especially wet pavement), I chose the Michelins. If I spooned on my own tires, rarely rode in the rain and rode gravel roads more, I might have gone the other direction.
I tried a Michelin Commander 2 on the rear that had 13,543 miles on it. It still had a lot of tread on it when I replaced it. The traction didn't compare to the PR3's/4's but wasn't too bad.
Afan
Elite Member
Totally agree that higher price doesn't always mean and better product. And I never said that. I was talking about "affordable" products. Best affordable products. And that's different than "the best value". The best value is best bang for the buck. For best affordable product you'll pay double more to have 20-30% better product. But, sometimes these 20-30% means to me a lot. I'll choose the best value for heated gear, boots, sometimes gloves, side cases, computer, cell phone, shoes, clothing... When it comes to the protection gear, like helmets, tires, jackets and pants, sometimes gloves... I would try to buy the best affordable products. Because, when the time comes and it should protect me - and it fails because the kevlar on the jacket didn't survive extra 10 feet of sliding, or the med guys couldn't take off my helmet easily when I crashed - it could cost you a lot.
I bought one "the best value" helmet - great deal, very good in protection. But not so good sound protection, and I knew it. Now my tinnitus is much worse... Saved on helmet, now I'll pay the difference for hearing aid
And, yes, not all people can afford top products. I totally agree with you. I can't either. That's why I said what I/YOU can afford. There is nothing bad with $100 helmet. One of the best helmets I had - the best fit for the shape of my head, sound protection, wind protection... was 10 year old Shoei RF900 I bought used for $50. I couldn't afford more and my thought was better 10 years old Shoei RF than new, made in China, plastic lid for the same buck. I still can't afford new Shoei or Arai or something similar for $500-$800. But I was able to pay $250 for new helmet and I bought Bell RS-1 on sale from $400 (at the time) to $250. Ugly like hell but who cares, it's good protection. I could've buy 3-3.5 stars helmet for $150, but I decided to go for 4.2 stars helmet and pay $250 - because I had that money at the time.
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rmezei
Member
how are those pr4's in the rain?
Afan
Elite Member
dduelin
Site Supporter
They are great in the rain.
Here is Florida and the SE USA I ride a lot in the rain. On Bridgestone T30 Evos.
That guy talks a lot but I like the Bike Magazine annual reviews. They don't test tires like the guy on YouTube. They test on a dry and wet track with a professional rider with blind tires. He objectively reviews the tires, which he doesn't know which ones he's on, and the tire guys subjectively test for warm-up temperatures beginning, middle, and end of a series of timed laps. They combine subjective and objective results. Michelin PR3s review(ed) well but they aren't the best overall and the cost more than others. Before the T30s the Bridgestone BT023s came in right behind the PR3 in the wet and out performed them in the dry.
