NC700S USB inside storage, with switch

[elvispm83]

Just installed a USB plug inside the storage


Total cost: less than £8

12V Waterproof Motorcycle HandleBar Cellphone USB: Amazon.co.uk: Electronics
TM 5X On/Off Self Latching Press Buttons Rocker Switch Toggle For Car Auto Boat: Amazon.co.uk: Car & Motorbike

The switch is necessary as the USB has a small light to indicate when it's powered.
Next thing I'll do is adding a fuse like this one
All Trade Direct Standard Blade Fuse Holder: Amazon.co.uk: Car & Motorbike

the USB cable can be used to power a phone mounted on the handle bar with the storage door completely closed, if the cable is placed along the locking mechanism at the front/center.


anyone has done anything similar ?

 

[bendobe]

For running power to the phone on the handlebars I went with an 8" Iphone cable and this hooked into a power block.

 

[JimbosToys]

I am going to do this, as well, but use a regular automotive power outlet and a plug in converter for USB power. Unplug it - no switch required. Will likely wire directly to the battery (not off the ignition switch so always on) with ~12 gage wire and 10 amp inline fuse so can hook up a battery tender trickle charger or other accessories.
What says the group - sound logic?

 

[bamamate]

I am going to do this, as well, but use a regular automotive power outlet and a plug in converter for USB power. Unplug it - no switch required. Will likely wire directly to the battery (not off the ignition switch so always on) with ~12 gage wire and 10 amp inline fuse so can hook up a battery tender trickle charger or other accessories.
What says the group - sound logic?

I have one on my bars and one in the frunk like that...standard 12v socket. Works well and doesn't draw power with nothing plugged in. Just have to remember to unplug the USB adapter. 12 gauge would be overkill for that short of a wire. I believe most of them come with 18 gauge. Cycle Gear and other places sell them for ~$20 with fuse holder, ring terminals and optional bar mount.

 

[JimbosToys]

bamamate - you are right that 12 gage is overkill. I meant 16 because I want it to carry battery charging current.
These things are cheap on eBay ($2) - buy two for a spare! Jim
Waterproof 12V 24V Outlet Power Socket Car Motorcycle Cigarette Lighter Plug | eBay

 

[anglachel]

I'll have to check when I Get home but I believe my batter tender line is fused at 3 amps... and I think the battery tender only pushes out 1.5 amps...

Battery tender website says the biggest battery tender is only 5 amps...

 

[JimbosToys]

Thanks for the intel.
If i get to use this baby as intended, I also anticipate potential use of a 12vdc searchlight at 55 watts, a 60 watt inverter for laptop recharge, and a cheapo tire pump. Using higher capacity wiring is easy.
But that's just me. Jim

 

[anglachel]

Thanks for the intel.
If i get to use this baby as intended, I also anticipate potential use of a 12vdc searchlight at 55 watts, a 60 watt inverter for laptop recharge, and a cheapo tire pump. Using higher capacity wiring is easy.
But that's just me. Jim

I'm no opponent to over kill in wiring... the driving lights on my impreza are 55W each and I wired it to handle 200 W's each up there with a heft safety margin (incase I ever turn them into off road lights and put 200w bulbs in there) My truck had a 55W light on the roll bar, and another one pointing back to the bed, both were wired up with 8 gauge wire... I could nearly jump the thing off the roll bar light wiring.

With that being said a 60 watt inverter at 12 volts is still only 5 amps. (6 if the inverter isn't particularly efficient and they are giving the final number not the draw number).

You can wire it as big as you want, and the only harm you are doing is making it more expensive and harder to bend/route the wires around the bike and adding weight, the bike is small and plastic panels covering your wiring makes it easy to route wires, and wire is probably the cheapest part of this project, and the weight is negligible unless you are racing.
BUT the fuse is key to stopping things from damaging themselves (mostly the wires between that fuse and a fuse in what ever devices you are plugging in, which is usually sized for that device).

A 10 amp fuse is probably overkill and will just mean it takes longer to trip than it needs to in the event something goes terribly wrong, I'd put a 7.5 fuse on that line with what you are intending to use it for, and if that blows more than once because of excessive load then I might consider going up to a 10 amp fuse (though the math says it's unlikely to blow at all with what you are talking about hooking up to it, unless you are planning to use a search and inverter at the same time). It's not like replacing an inline fuse is going to be particularly hard and 7.5 amps still gives you something like 90 watts to play with (81 if you want to leave a 10% margin)

 

[JimbosToys]

Thanks anglachel - good intel. This will not happen immediately, but just excited about setting it up. I would not expect to use light and inverter at same time.
I use 10:1 AC watts to 12vdc amps to accommodate conversion losses. Easier math.
Thanks for the input. Jim