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Need Advice on Oil Change?

Duke Nukem

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It is time for my first oil change and is there anything special I should know? I heard that with the first oil change the dealer may need to put the bike on the computer to adjust timing and/or rev limiter? Have any of you heard of this or is this just the standard oil change? What oil do you recommend? Any advice will be helpful!
 
I highly suggest an oil filter tool like this, it is just like the one I ended up usingLisle 63600 Import Car Oil Filter Wrench 2-1/2 In to 3-1/8 In and a long handle 3/8" ratchet or breaker bar. I fix cars for a living and that has got to be the tightest oil filter I have ever removed. Everything else you need to know is in the manual, there is another thread on here that describes how to check the steering head bearings too as I believe that is part of the 600 mi service as well.
 
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Hi
I think you mean first service?
It is just an oil change (with filter) and then a visual inspection on "everything".

Unless you have a problem with the engine, they will not do a diagnostics on the "timing" on a computer.
I am unaware if there is a rev-limiter on this bike.

Hope this reassures you.
:D
~Joe
 
It is time for my first oil change and is there anything special I should know? I heard that with the first oil change the dealer may need to put the bike on the computer to adjust timing and/or rev limiter? Have any of you heard of this or is this just the standard oil change? What oil do you recommend? Any advice will be helpful!

The dealer does no such thing as adjusting the timing or the rev limiter. These are set for the life of the machine, the rev limiter especially.

The oil recommended is what the manual specifies, with the proper API and JASO ratings. Viscosity 10W-30 or 10W-40 is called for in the Honda service manual. You should also observe the other maintenance tasks listed in the operator's manual for the 600 mile service.

You should be prepared to put up a fight to get the original oil filter off. Mine and others were extremely tight.

Greg
 
knowing in advance all you guys having problems with the OEM installed oil filter, I bought my very first filter wrench, claw type. Hope this does the job. Normally its just a metal/rubber strap I use, but this stock filter is so small my current oil change tools would not work on it.

Now i'm just waiting for my order of AmsOil to come in, so I can change this bikes oil! Oh... and source the trans filter for my DCT model. Dealer still has not had the filter come in.
 
When I did my first change, the original oil filter was unbelievable tight. See my post about it in the "what did you do today" or something like that heading.
 
As Jfauerba mentioned already, the oil filter is on INCREDIBLY tight. WTF. I drove a 12" spike thru the filter and barely had enough leverage to turn that thing loose. I bought a K&N filter with a nut molded to the top so I can take it off with a wrench next time.
 
This job is straight forward on the NC700X. I have a bunch of filter wrenches but this one is my go-to Honda oil filter wrench:

IMG_8699.jpg
 
Always make sure the o-ring comes off with the old filter, and make sure there is not one on stuck on the block, from some other oil change, if you miss this second o-ring it will blow off at about 3000 rpm and coat the rear tire, witch is never good. And may damage the motor from lack of oil. And do not hand tighted the filter ,torque it.
 
Always make sure the o-ring comes off with the old filter, and make sure there is not one on stuck on the block, from some other oil change, if you miss this second o-ring it will blow off at about 3000 rpm and coat the rear tire, witch is never good. And may damage the motor from lack of oil. And do not hand tighted the filter ,torque it.
How do you know that will happen:)?
Just kiddin'. Good info though.
 
I have had two customer bikes totaled from this. One customer was really hurt bad. Both had been doing there own service work. The motor on both bikes were black cases, under a fairing, thats why we always run are finger across the filer base on the block just incase a oring is stuck on there.
 
To say never hand tighten the filter is a bit much. Hand tightening gives a good feel for fit and tightness without over tightening the filter, which can deform the gasket which is easily done with a long handled wrench, which most torque wrenches are.

Art
 
To say never hand tighten the filter is a bit much. Hand tightening gives a good feel for fit and tightness without over tightening the filter, which can deform the gasket which is easily done with a long handled wrench, which most torque wrenches are.

Art

Even if a torque wrench had a 3 ft. handle, it is calibrated to provide the set torque. Interesting that a professional mechanic with 40 years experience who handles wrenches every day for a living recommends a torque wrench but you can do it better once a year by feel. The woods are full of people who have gotten away with it just as there are lots of long-term smokers without lung cancer.

Some filters are spec'ed contact plus 3/4 turn. Some just say hand-tighten. Honda gives a torque spec. I plan to use it.
 
All i can say is that after 41 years of being a honda tech my elbow will not click at 19 foot pounds. We have seen oil filter threads and material pulled out of the filters with!!!! A good feel,, the honda oil filter wrench is three eights drive for a torque wrench. I have seen the threads and sheet metal pulled out as far as the o-ring and are leaking oil because the o-ring is not crushed correctly. Sorry its just me to pick up the right tool avery time for the job at hand.
 
As a rule, if the MFG calls for a tightening torque/spec, I'll always use that. This has been the case with all my previous/current bikes and cars. Additionally, I stick with OEM parts/steps so as to minimize on any warranty issues if that were to ever arise. Having the Service Manual when doing your own service is a good thing. I know, going a bit off topic but since there was mention of engines being destroyed and due to owners doing their own service.
 
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