Sub Harness questions

[L.B.S.]

The OEM Honda optional Sub Harness plugs into an existing unused connector under the bodywork. The Sub Harness splits from there into 4 seperate individual plugs.

One is used when you hook up the OEM Heated Grip Mounting kit Harness.

One is used if you install the OEM power socket.

One is used, I'm guessing, if you shell out for the OEM Driving Lights.

What is the 4th one for? Maybe the OEM Alarm module?

Are 3 out of the 4 plugs 12V switched, and one constant hot? (for the alarm)

I'll be able to find this out quickly enough once I plug it in and do my H.G. install, but I may not be doing that for awhile. Just want to cogitate on other potential gizmos to be powered up and if I can use a few of those sub harness plugs for such.

I want to hardwire my GPS in like I had on my BMW. Not go through the SAE pigtail for my Battery Tender, or a 12V socket power source up at the handlebars, or the SAE pigtail to attach to my tankbag bulkhead, or a seperate power junction block.

Just want the GPS on it's own little dedicated wire. Don't care if it's switched or constant hot. Not worried about battery drain in my application.

Oh, and can you stick in both positive and negative leads (once fitted with appropriate terminals) into the ends of these 4 Sub Harness plugs, or do you have so find a seperate ground for whatever device you are wanting to power?

Thanks!

 

[Beemerphile]

The OEM Honda optional Sub Harness plugs into an existing unused connector under the bodywork. The Sub Harness splits from there into 4 seperate individual plugs.

One is used when you hook up the OEM Heated Grip Mounting kit Harness.

One is used if you install the OEM power socket.

One is used, I'm guessing, if you shell out for the OEM Driving Lights.

What is the 4th one for? Maybe the OEM Alarm module?

Are 3 out of the 4 plugs 12V switched, and one constant hot? (for the alarm)

I'll be able to find this out quickly enough once I plug it in and do my H.G. install, but I may not be doing that for awhile. Just want to cogitate on other potential gizmos to be powered up and if I can use a few of those sub harness plugs for such.

I want to hardwire my GPS in like I had on my BMW. Not go through the SAE pigtail for my Battery Tender, or a 12V socket power source up at the handlebars, or the SAE pigtail to attach to my tankbag bulkhead, or a seperate power junction block.

Just want the GPS on it's own little dedicated wire. Don't care if it's switched or constant hot. Not worried about battery drain in my application.

Oh, and can you stick in both positive and negative leads (once fitted with appropriate terminals) into the ends of these 4 Sub Harness plugs, or do you have so find a seperate ground for whatever device you are wanting to power?

Thanks!

Not exactly Lane,

The alarm option has a 6-pole x 6-pole pass-through connector that goes ahead of the option sub-harness so it is not included in the count. There are four wires in the option connector:

1) 12v+ switched
2) 12v+ unswitched
3) ground
4) headlight high beam.

The three 2-wire connectors contain 12v+ switched (from the option relay) and ground. The 3-wire connector has the headlight high beam plus the other two. My assumption is that the 3-wire connector is for the fog lights. For it to work in the customary manner of turning the fog lights off when the high beams are on, it must use the high beam circuit to energize an NC relay in the fog light harness. Interestingly, if you purchase the alarm and connect it with the pass-through connector, it does not pass the headlight high beam wire through. It would have been easy to do and it would be easy to fix, but it is a mystery to me why it is done this way.

 

[L.B.S.]

Ahhh! Thank you!

Too many silly assumptions on my part, again. (electrical 'tard...)

You are a Gentleman and a Scholar as always.

 

[duk2n]

Interestingly, if you purchase the alarm and connect it with the pass-through connector, it does not pass the headlight high beam wire through. It would have been easy to do and it would be easy to fix, but it is a mystery to me why it is done this way.

Maybe they think the alarm plus the fog lights (and another 3 accesories) are too much load for the 7,5 amp circuit? The way they have done it you must choice between the fog lights or the alarm...

 

[Beemerphile]

Maybe they think the alarm plus the fog lights (and another 3 accesories) are too much load for the 7,5 amp circuit? The way they have done it you must choice between the fog lights or the alarm...

Not likely they would be running at the same time. I don't think that is it.